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Author Topic:  Push Pull double lower
John Poston

 

From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2018 8:06 am    
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If you want a double lower on P/P do people just set it up with the adjustment screw underneath like is typical for the E->F E->F# raise on string 4?
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Lee Baucum


From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2018 8:40 am    
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That's what I did with the 8th string on my old Emmons U-12.
That tuner wasn't easy to reach, though..buried under a lot of rods.

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There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.


Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 29 Apr 2018 9:19 pm    
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John, I read your question as for instance, 6th string, lowering a half tone and a whole tone. That's what I call a double lower. Yes, it can be done with a screw tuner just like for the 4th string except you have to use your A pedal to pull string back to half tone. Works great and doesn't bother the A pedal at all.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 11:58 am    
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This guitar lowers 8 a whole step to D like Lee describes. The half tone screw tunes the standard D# lower. I usually have to look under there to find it and get a finger on it to tune, but it needs adjustment so infrequently that it's basically irrelevant. In the case of a lower, it's the other end of the tuner screw that contacts the collar. If it were turned around the other way so that the thumbturn was toward the collar, it would be very difficult to reach unless the threaded portion was very long.

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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 12:43 pm    
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Ian, I don't understand why you would Need that adjusting screw. Are the lowers on two separate levers or a like a half stop feel on one lever, thanks
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 1:11 pm    
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Yes, they are separate changes on separate levers so they must be tuned individually. Just one bell crank only for each pull. The longer pull tunes at the end plate stop screw, the shorter pull tunes with the fine tuner.

The faux split of the string 6 lower that you were talking about is something different entirely. That involves adding an extra bell crank for string 6 on the A pedal that simply limits the distance that the raise finger can travel in the lowering direction when the A pedal is engaged. In that case the the split note is tuned on the raise side of that bell crank so it is easier to reach.
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John Poston

 

From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 1:54 pm    
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Great, thanks for all the input, guys.
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 3:30 pm    
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Ian Worley wrote:
Yes, they are separate changes on separate levers so they must be tuned individually. Just one bell crank only for each pull. The longer pull tunes at the end plate stop screw, the shorter pull tunes with the fine tuner.

The faux split of the string 6 lower that you were talking about is something different entirely. That involves adding an extra bell crank for string 6 on the A pedal that simply limits the distance that the raise finger can travel in the lowering direction when the A pedal is engaged. In that case the the split note is tuned on the raise side of that bell crank so it is easier to reach.


I got you. Both my push pulls have that fake split I put on, couldn't live without it.. may try you E lower to D, can see where it could be used. Is your 9th still a D?
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 3:52 pm    
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No, my 9 and 10 are B and G#, I get the D on 8 with the same lever that lowers 2
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John Goux

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 8:38 pm    
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Ian, I’d love to have that setup with a low G# B E with the Str 8 D lower on the String 2 lever.
Makes total sense.
John
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2018 9:01 pm    
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It works for me, but we're all different. My first "real" psg was a 12 string uni so I never really got too attached to the 9th string D, and I've switched it on every 10 string guitar since. The G# and B on the bottom are pretty useful, the G# raises to A along with 3 & 6 on P2. I know for a lot of folks you'd have to pry that 9th string D from their cold dead hands. Wink Apologies to the OP for the topic drift.
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