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Topic: weight of peavey amps |
Richard Stoops
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:27 am |
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Hey guys,
can anyone tell me the weight of a Peavey Nashville 112 and a Peavey Nashville 400. I have leads on both of these and must decide on which one to take. I don't plan on playing out very much, but both are very good deals.
Thanks,
Dick |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:54 am
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| I don't think weight should be the determining factor when choosing between the two amps. |
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Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:55 am
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Nashville 112: 42.8 pounds:
https://peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/1073/104983/
Nashville 400: 56.5 - 60 pounds (forum posts)
Either amp is much lighter if you swap out the speaker for a lot lighter model.
I agree that weight should not be the deciding factor. The Nashville 400 IMHO is a much better amp even at low practice volumes. |
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Greg Lambert
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 1:11 pm
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| Greg Cutshaw wrote: |
Nashville 112: 42.8 pounds:
https://peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/1073/104983/
Nashville 400: 56.5 - 60 pounds (forum posts)
Either amp is much lighter if you swap out the speaker for a lot lighter model.
I agree that weight should not be the deciding factor. The Nashville 400 IMHO is a much better amp even at low practice volumes. |
What would be the best speaker for a lot of C6th punch? |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 1:14 pm
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| Greg Lambert wrote: |
| Greg Cutshaw wrote: |
Nashville 112: 42.8 pounds:
https://peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/1073/104983/
Nashville 400: 56.5 - 60 pounds (forum posts)
Either amp is much lighter if you swap out the speaker for a lot lighter model.
I agree that weight should not be the deciding factor. The Nashville 400 IMHO is a much better amp even at low practice volumes. |
What would be the best speaker for a lot of C6th punch? |
My opinion only. I have a 1502 in my NV 400. It's the best out of the 3 I have used. The others were a 1501 and a Telonics.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 3:13 pm
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| Weight can be a huge factor if you have a bad back or lack of strength because of a health or age issue. |
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Richard Stoops
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 4:47 pm amp weight
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My reasoning was if the NV112 performed similar to the NV400, but was much lighter, it might make sense to get the NV112. I'm 81 yrs old and (I hate to admit it) I ain't as strong as I once was. I have found a great VN400 within driving distance so regardless of the weight I bought it. For the same reason I am having split cases made for my steel because the 70 lb weight of steel + case is more than I want to deal with. I really appreciate the replies from you guys and hope you all have a Merry Christmas.
Thanks,
Dick |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 6:19 pm
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Richard, if you find the weight of your new NV400 to be more than you want to handle, you can always split the amp and speaker with a cabinet like this.
True, one more piece to carry but a lighter load.
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=280181 |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 7:18 pm
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| Get them both and run them in Stereo (with an RV3 or other deley/reverb unit). |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 1:03 am
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| Greg Lambert wrote: |
What would be the best speaker for a lot of C6th punch? |
Interesting question.
the answer suggests a question...
At what stage volume ?
The BW series is hard to beat, but with them comes the weight.
How many speakers do we buy and install , at well over $100 each to save 5 or 10 pounds ?
good question 
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 7:02 am
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How much does a session 500 weigh?I almost lost it carrying one of Those!
_________________
Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952. |
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Greg Lambert
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 11:26 am
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| Stu Schulman wrote: |
| How much does a session 500 weigh?I almost lost it carrying one of Those! |
they are close to the weight of a TD9 Caterpillar. I used to own one. Great amp for someone in there mid 20's. |
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Len Amaral
From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 5:54 pm
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| My dad would often say "There's no blood like young blood" I carried a Twin reverb with two EV speakers when I was young without thinking twice.😳 |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 4:10 pm
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| Quote: |
| What would be the best speaker for a lot of C6th punch? |
Tony beat me to it but I'll chime in and add a bit. And a bit more -
Playing what style;In what amp; at what volume level; do you use a lot of pick dynamics, or pick mostly (hard or soft) and played where (at home, in a band - and if in a band competing with ....what; do you generally use fairly flat EQ settings or ?; do you use a compressor;; "C6 punch" meaning exactly what?
C6 is basically a tuning,and "punch" means different things to different players - especially when in band situations when it becomes a relative term. It also becomes very style dependent - "punch" in a small group, jazz setting can mean something completely different in a loud, large Western swing band situation.
(note - I'm posting this also for anyone else who stumbles into the thread (grin) as I get asked this often when doing amp tech work for players of all sorts of instruments.)
Varied and.or "usually" strong pick attack can also change the picture and harder payers (or those that really like to dig in) encounter a lot more variables related to amp specifics, cabinet type (open, closed and single or multiple speakers), normal vs maximum volume levels and the specific amp's EQ settings (which change in different playing environments - or should, i.e. size of room, ceiling height/type, parallel or odd-shaped walls, NoBiS - Number of Behinds in Seats  - seriously, it can make a big difference!) and so on...
And compressors...especially many common stompbox-stypes - can negate "punch" more than most other factors.
All that being said - the things to usually look for are 1) speaker sensitivity in db. Most manufacturers now have this in their speaker specifications. *Generally* the higher the number - closer to or slightly above 100db: i.e. 97, or 98db rated speakers will usually be much more responsive/punchy than a speaker rated at 92db.
But the speaker's frequency response *plus* that of the amp *plus* other factors mentioned can significantly change how well that sensitivity is used.
Second is power handling, which can be confusing. One point - high power handling (in watts) does NOT mean a speaker is very responsive (sensitive). Both power handling AND sensitivity are important.
Power handling requirements also change depending on frequencies - bass frequencies can require more power handling at higher volume than a typical amp's "power rating" - i.e. a 100 watt rated, very efficient speaker in a 100-watt amp being hit by low frequencies at high volume may do the dreaded "farting out" - a low frequencies "fluffing" overtone.
And - not always relevant to pedal steel but applies to some players - distortion throws a huge wrench into power handling. the simplest (not absolutely correct, but good enough for an illustration ) way to describe differences are 1) think of clean playing as a smooth, but varied wavy line; flatten it out and it stretches a fixed distance in "watts" - a basic power handling requirement (yes, you really need more...this is really basic).
OTOH distortion we'll draw as a jagged up-and-down line going much higher/lower than the wavy line and with more peaks & valleys over the same distance...
...and now flatten THAT thing out. It goes MUCH further - and that distance (watts) is heat. Which can cook a speaker if the distorted signal isn't given a speaker with much higher power handling.
And (again, this MAY not be relevant to C6 - but would be in a rock setting - and some players use C6 for rock) distortion can also negate "punch" pretty quickly.
So there's a whole lot more than anyone needed to know about "punch" and "speakers"...
So the answer to the original question is: "beats me!"
(No, I didn't just type all this up now. I save these things up and inflict them at random! )
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Greg Lambert
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 2:08 pm
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| Jim Sliff wrote: |
| Quote: |
| What would be the best speaker for a lot of C6th punch? |
Tony beat me to it but I'll chime in and add a bit. And a bit more -
Playing what style;In what amp; at what volume level; do you use a lot of pick dynamics, or pick mostly (hard or soft) and played where (at home, in a band - and if in a band competing with ....what; do you generally use fairly flat EQ settings or ?; do you use a compressor;; "C6 punch" meaning exactly what?
C6 is basically a tuning,and "punch" means different things to different players - especially when in band situations when it becomes a relative term. It also becomes very style dependent - "punch" in a small group, jazz setting can mean something completely different in a loud, large Western swing band situation.
(note - I'm posting this also for anyone else who stumbles into the thread (grin) as I get asked this often when doing amp tech work for players of all sorts of instruments.)
Varied and.or "usually" strong pick attack can also change the picture and harder payers (or those that really like to dig in) encounter a lot more variables related to amp specifics, cabinet type (open, closed and single or multiple speakers), normal vs maximum volume levels and the specific amp's EQ settings (which change in different playing environments - or should, i.e. size of room, ceiling height/type, parallel or odd-shaped walls, NoBiS - Number of Behinds in Seats - seriously, it can make a big difference!) and so on...
And compressors...especially many common stompbox-stypes - can negate "punch" more than most other factors.
All that being said - the things to usually look for are 1) speaker sensitivity in db. Most manufacturers now have this in their speaker specifications. *Generally* the higher the number - closer to or slightly above 100db: i.e. 97, or 98db rated speakers will usually be much more responsive/punchy than a speaker rated at 92db.
But the speaker's frequency response *plus* that of the amp *plus* other factors mentioned can significantly change how well that sensitivity is used.
Second is power handling, which can be confusing. One point - high power handling (in watts) does NOT mean a speaker is very responsive (sensitive). Both power handling AND sensitivity are important.
Power handling requirements also change depending on frequencies - bass frequencies can require more power handling at higher volume than a typical amp's "power rating" - i.e. a 100 watt rated, very efficient speaker in a 100-watt amp being hit by low frequencies at high volume may do the dreaded "farting out" - a low frequencies "fluffing" overtone.
And - not always relevant to pedal steel but applies to some players - distortion throws a huge wrench into power handling. the simplest (not absolutely correct, but good enough for an illustration ) way to describe differences are 1) think of clean playing as a smooth, but varied wavy line; flatten it out and it stretches a fixed distance in "watts" - a basic power handling requirement (yes, you really need more...this is really basic).
OTOH distortion we'll draw as a jagged up-and-down line going much higher/lower than the wavy line and with more peaks & valleys over the same distance...
...and now flatten THAT thing out. It goes MUCH further - and that distance (watts) is heat. Which can cook a speaker if the distorted signal isn't given a speaker with much higher power handling.
And (again, this MAY not be relevant to C6 - but would be in a rock setting - and some players use C6 for rock) distortion can also negate "punch" pretty quickly.
So there's a whole lot more than anyone needed to know about "punch" and "speakers"...
So the answer to the original question is: "beats me!"
(No, I didn't just type all this up now. I save these things up and inflict them at random! ) |
Great post Jim .. thanks .. what I was referring to as punch is like the turnaround in Houston { Gatlin Bro's}
I like that to be a dynamic turn , up a few db, with the whole band and of course the steel dominate. |
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