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Post new topic UPDATE: I've got a bad case of the
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Author Topic:  UPDATE: I've got a bad case of the
Larry Bressington


From:
Kearney Nebraska
Post Posted 19 Jun 2017 5:01 am     Reply with quote

I have found over the years that, using simi-chrome polish at every string change really helps, it's a maintenance thing that goes a long way, it's a 3 minute job.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post Posted 19 Jun 2017 8:38 am     Reply with quote

Greg Cutshaw wrote:
I've had a few brand new guitars with perfectly shaped changer fingers that also zinged quite a lot on the higher strings.


And oddly, it's almost always the 4th string, high E.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post Posted 19 Jun 2017 8:42 am     Reply with quote

Larry Bressington wrote:
I have found over the years that, using simi-chrome polish at every string change really helps,


In my experience, Simi-Chrome and even fine sandpaper (such as 1500 grit) can't remove enough material to eliminate the buzz. It seems to sound better if I don't use anything finer than 600.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post Posted 20 Nov 2017 6:09 pm     Reply with quote

Arrg, now I have this disease. I tried just Mother's, and it shined up the fingers and made the grooves less visible, but I still buzz. Needless to say, the grooves aren't very deep, but I hate to go at it with sandpaper. Has anybody tried to fill the groove with super glue, epoxy or nail polish - sort of a more permanent form of the "piece of paper" fix? It wouldn't take much glue and it's also reversable in that it would be easy to remove.
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Franklin D10 8&4, NV400, Rumble 40, Twin, Carvin BX500 or Peavey MiniMax to BW1501 neo speaker in open back or TT-12 in closed back.Goodrich/Moyo pedals, homemade buffer/overdrive, GT-001 effects, and an elephant graveyard of empty speaker cabinets in my garage.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post Posted 29 Nov 2017 7:44 pm     Fixing string zing Reply with quote

I decided I didn't want to remove any material from my changer fingers to remove flat spot/grooves. I decided to make metal "caps".
Pic 1: First I tried 7 mil copper glued with spray adhesive. It got rid of the zing, but the adhesive didn't stick well. I played with epoxy, but it was messy and I didn't have a good way to clamp the pieces to the changer. Copper is a bit harder than the aluminum, but not like steel, so I would only get another 20 years out of them.
Pic 2: I then found 2 mil stainless steel tape on Amazon:
"3M 3361 Silver High Temperature Stainless Steel/Acrylic Adhesive Foil Tape, 0.25" width x 18yd ". Its really cool stuff made for labels to stick on the outside of airplanes.
This pic shows string 10 of the E9 neck done.
Pic 3: The finished E9 showing the roll of steel tape.
The tape really sticks, and I can remove it someday. I have enough tape to last about 300 years. I'm now waiting for new strings.



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Franklin D10 8&4, NV400, Rumble 40, Twin, Carvin BX500 or Peavey MiniMax to BW1501 neo speaker in open back or TT-12 in closed back.Goodrich/Moyo pedals, homemade buffer/overdrive, GT-001 effects, and an elephant graveyard of empty speaker cabinets in my garage.


Last edited by Glenn Demichele on 29 Nov 2017 9:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jack Stanton


From:
Somewhere in the swamps of Jersey
Post Posted 29 Nov 2017 8:01 pm     Reply with quote

Glenn,
That's brilliant! Any change in tone or sustain?
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post Posted 29 Nov 2017 8:09 pm     Reply with quote

I played with "full copper" on E9 for a week, and it sounded great. Haven't tried the steel yet, as I'm waiting for new strings. The 3M adhesive on the back of the steel tape is really thin, so I hope it won't absorb any sound.
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Franklin D10 8&4, NV400, Rumble 40, Twin, Carvin BX500 or Peavey MiniMax to BW1501 neo speaker in open back or TT-12 in closed back.Goodrich/Moyo pedals, homemade buffer/overdrive, GT-001 effects, and an elephant graveyard of empty speaker cabinets in my garage.
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Jack Stanton


From:
Somewhere in the swamps of Jersey
Post Posted 30 Nov 2017 4:44 am     Reply with quote

I guess the big question is did it get rid of the zing..? Please update us when you restring.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post Posted 30 Nov 2017 6:35 am     Reply with quote

Brilliant? Please hold your applause. When I tried the 7 mil copper, it fixed the zing and sounded great - very promising results. I tried the steel tape because it had a harder surface and better adhesive. I restrung the C6 last night, which didn't have a problem before, and this morning string 2 is zingy. Being only 2 mils thick, the string made a groove in the tape by displacing the layer of tape adhesive underneath. I am going to try removing the adhesive in the center of my strips so I have metal to metal where the string pushes against the changer. Stay tuned...
_________________
Franklin D10 8&4, NV400, Rumble 40, Twin, Carvin BX500 or Peavey MiniMax to BW1501 neo speaker in open back or TT-12 in closed back.Goodrich/Moyo pedals, homemade buffer/overdrive, GT-001 effects, and an elephant graveyard of empty speaker cabinets in my garage.
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Glenn Demichele


From:
(20mi N of) Chicago Illinois, USA
Post Posted 2 Dec 2017 8:20 am     Reply with quote

It worked. The zing is gone for sure and the tone might have a little more bite (but I might be imagining that, or because of the new strings). The strings leave no grooves in the stainless cap because I removed the adhesive where the steel tape goes over the finger (see drawing).


_________________
Franklin D10 8&4, NV400, Rumble 40, Twin, Carvin BX500 or Peavey MiniMax to BW1501 neo speaker in open back or TT-12 in closed back.Goodrich/Moyo pedals, homemade buffer/overdrive, GT-001 effects, and an elephant graveyard of empty speaker cabinets in my garage.
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post Posted 2 Dec 2017 1:09 pm     Reply with quote

Here is how I have corrected this problem in the past. Buy a sheet of 1/4" thick foam rubber, sold at most craft stores. Get some 600 grit sandpaper paper and some 1000 grit.

Cut a strip of the foam rubber that is just as wide as the changer finger, about 2 1/2" long, cut some strips of both grades of the sandpaper to the same size. Lay a strip of the 600 grit paper on the foam, hold both ends, then buff the top of the finger as if you are polishing a shoe. Follow the curve of the finger. Don't apply much pressure.

Repeat with a strip of the 1000 grit paper. Put a small dab of metal polish on the finger, wrap the foam strip with some cloth from an old tee shirt. Buff the finger again, letting the foam rubber strip follow the contour of the top of the finger. Wipe off any material, check to see if you can still a groove. If you hold a small flashlight right next to the finger you can see it better. If you still see any groove, repeat the process, maybe only using the 1000 grit paper.

Don't apply direct pressure to the top of the finger, just hold the ends and move the foam/sandpaper back and forth. This has worked for me every time I've done it.
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Kevin Fix


From:
Michigan, USA
Post Posted 6 Dec 2017 7:29 pm     Sanding Worked Reply with quote

I did the sand paper method back in the 80,s on a LDG. Did the trick.
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