Really Zumthing

Tony Smart · From: Harlow. Essex. England

I notice the support bar that connects the front and back apron has some discs on it with rods that go to the changer. Can someone explain their purpose please.
Thanks.

Bruce Hamilton · From: Vancouver BC Canada

I see. So like a push pull the body is not adjustable so you have to tune you maximum raise at the point that the changer hits the body then tune the changer back to rest for the open notes. It makes sense now. Thanks Dag.

Bruce Hamilton · From: Vancouver BC Canada

Double post deleted

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Lynn I think I get it!

Those allen screws on the top of the photo are not the screws for the splits are they? The split screws are out of the picture, located above the changer as is usual in most Zums? ...........So if I'm correct, you:

- Tune the changer raise fingers at the tuning keys (P/P style) while manually pressing the raise finger against the body.....then

- Tune the pedal or KL raise at the brass nut, so that the changer finger contacts the body at the end of it's excursion...then

-Tune the open strings that have raises at the socket cap allen screws pictured...then

-tune the lowers, 1/2 stops and split tones as on any other Zum.

Is that right?

Danny Letz · From: Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540

Tony Smart, On my nonhybrid Zum, those are the return compensaters. I think they are only on strings that raise and lower. Those little disc are just push nuts the hold the rod to the crossbrace.

Dag Wolf · From: Bergen, Norway

Tony G.
You have it right except that the brass tuners are not to be tuned. These are pre-set from the factory. Remember; they do the same work as the rod collars on a PP.
The brass tuners are very hard to turn. On my first hybrid I noticed that a raise finger didn't contact the body. I screwed the brass tuners a bit more in so the finger touched the body.
This has only happened once of all 6 hybrid I've had.

A good way to check the body contact is to engage the raises and then use a philip screw driver on the raise finger and see if you can press the raise finger further in. If it's in conctact then it's good.

Dag Wolf · From: Bergen, Norway

One more thing.
If you get a hybrid and for some reason don't like the way it sound or you don't like the way you have to tune (PP) it is possible to adjust the raise fingers so they don't touch the body.
Then you can tune the hybrid like a regular all pull. Ofcourse you then have to do all raise tuning on the brass tuners.

Just remember that the changer hole in the hybrid body are narrower than a regular all pull but I'm sure you can do the above anyway.

So there is a choice there.

I will not recommend it as in my book the hybrid body touch sound better.

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Tony,

You have it right except as Dag noted, the brass nuts are set from the factory and should not have to be adjusted, unless they have been tampered with or the string gauge has been changed. Bruce sets them up with blue Locktite, so they are very hard to turn.

Lynn

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Lynn,

You've got a boat-load of lowers there, especialy on the 5th and 6th strings. Looks like B-->Bb, G#-->F# and "the Franklin" change. Didn't you mention something about splitting the "Franklin" into 2 knee levers or a lever + pedal?

Anyway. can't wait to check it out................

Paddy Long · From: Christchurch, New Zealand

So just to clarify for any of you who are still confused... the Zum Hybrid is a all-pull guitar and everything on it tunes the same as an all pull guitar, including the splits ----- EXCEPT for the Primary raises, which tune like a push-pull.. ie: you activate the pedal/lever and tune the resultant note at the keyhead ... then you tune the OPEN note at the row of hex-head screws above the nylon tuners !!!
_________________
14'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
08'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
94' Franklin Stereo D10 9+8
Telonics, Peterson, Steelers Choice, Benado, Lexicon, Red Dirt Cases.

Edward Efira · From: California, USA

A big Thanks to all the guys who contributed to this thread.

I wanted to make a few changes to my revered SD10 Zum Hybrid and being as clumsy as can be, I managed to mess-up most of the brass nuts settings not knowing what I was dealing with. Thanks to your detailed explanations and tips (the #1 Phillips screwdriver among others Lynn Stafford) I have a Zum that's perfectly in tune therefore sustaining forever, with my changes and moreover, I have acquired a perfect understanding of this extraordinary instrument's mechanics.
I believe that this wealth of knowledge should be compiled and added to the original manual.

Again, from the bottom of my heart, I want to humbly thank all of you contributors.
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'75 Sho-Bud 4&4, '01 Zumsteel 8&8, 2012 Zum Hybrid 4&6

Ken Pippus · From: Langford, BC, Canada

Man thatâ€™s a nice looking guitar. Wonder where a guy could find one like that.

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Edward Efira · From: California, USA

Gorgeous guitar Lynn,

Here is mine:

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'75 Sho-Bud 4&4, '01 Zumsteel 8&8, 2012 Zum Hybrid 4&6

Ken Pippus · From: Langford, BC, Canada

It plays better than it looks.

Ken Pippus · From: Langford, BC, Canada

I, in contrast, may not even play any better than I look.

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

This is a very helpful thread for Hybrid owners. Given the knowledge explained here, it sure helps for adjustment of these fine, yet unique guitars. I had some problems with my D10 soon after I got it and between Lynn and Bruce I was able to tame the guitar back to sense. Once settled, they stay in tune well and have a great sound.

Danny Letz · From: Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540

Lynn, I believe Rick Price now has a red hybrid.

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Danny Letz · From: Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540

I think heâ€™s a die hard Push Pull man. Keeps trying the Hybrids but always goes back.

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