Brighten Reverb/ Nashville 400

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

Has anyone thought the reverb in the Nashville 400 could use a bit of brightening? Has anyone done that to their amp. Any specific suggestions on part values? Also, has anyone tried an updated version of the 4558 op amp (used extensively in Peavey steel amps)? It seems to me that the Nashville 400 was designed in the early 80's and I know there been alot of advancements in electronics since then and I bet on op amps as well. What's anyone tried?

Thanks,
Bob

Fred Murphy · From: Indianapolis, In. USA

I wish that Peavey would completely revamp their reverbs. That has always been a major drawback for me. When you turn up the reverb is just gets hollow sounding. They build great amps and I have several, but if they could improve this it would be a great leap forward. I always use an add on of some kind, but it would be nice to have a great sounding one built in. Not to knock Peavey in any way, but the Evans has a great reverb sound and so does Fender. I believe that this is one reason many players went to using Alesis reverbs and the Profex and many other name add on units.

Al Marcus · From: Cedar Springs,MI USA (deceased)

Are you listening , Mike Brown???.al

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

The electro/mechanical spring concept is really outdated. When it was designed, 40 or so years ago, it was "state of the art". But there have been major advances and the old mechanical spring really should go. Beside eliminating the mechanical part, frequency response would be improved, hum and noise eliminated. With the current technology an "electronic" reverb circuit should not cost any more (and probably less) than the electro/mechanical ones.

I'm surprised the new generation Peavey 1000 amp doesn't have an electronic reverb. The 2000 model does have one since it basically has the processor section of a Transtube Fex built in.

------------------
Franklin D-10
Fender Nashville Tele
A Country Musician

Len Amaral · From: Rehoboth,MA 02769

I purchased a replacement reverb tank from John LeMay for a Nashville 400 that has a different vibe from the standard reverb tank. You may want to contact John as he may have a some insight about modifying a reverb for you.

Mike Brown · From: Meridian, Mississippi USA

I appreciate your input and will definitely pass this info along to our engineering groups for feedback. The Nashville 400 was equipped with a 3 spring and the Nashville 1000 is equipped with a two spring, which is the identical reverb pan that Fender uses. The majority of Nashville 1000 users so far have been pleased with the 1000 reverb. However, I've also found that many players don't agree on just 'what' reverb sounds pleasing as it is very subjective. There are many digital reverbs offered that a lot of players use. At any rate, I will use this input for future reference for future steel products.

Thanks for letting us know. If you have questions or suggestions, please call me toll free in the U.S. at 1-877-732-8391.

[This message was edited by Mike Brown on 19 June 2000 at 11:06 AM.]

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

Jack,
I won't argue with you about spring reverbs being old technology but when they are good they are very, very good. I have a Fender amp (deluxe reverb) with the best sounding (mechanical) reverb I have ever heard. I can't say I've put it up against all the digital reverbs out there but I like the sound of this reverb better than any pedal I've heard, or any SPX 90 or any Alesis product, but then again, I like the sound of a spring reverb. Of course, not all spring reverbs sound the same; some sound horrible, which brings us back to the Nashville 400.

The Nashville 400 was designed in a era just at the dawn of the CD and digital music revolution. Records started being made with alot more high end sizzle; rock records, at first but now almost every pop/country record released bears the influence of this. Manufacturers followed later by compensating their equipment's sound. My point being that the reverb in the Nashville 400 was in the style of its day when it was designed but now things are different, and that usually means brighter. If one can mod the preamp of a NV 400 to sound sweeter and less honky certainly the reverb can be brought along gently into the 21st century.

Bob

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

Bob, I won't argue about Fender reverbs. Fender has the best spring reverbs of an amps I've played through or worked on. The Peavey's have a relatively "weak" reverb mix and even on a high setting they do not come close to the Fender's.

But from a strictly engineering outlook, the electro/mechanical is a poor design. You are relying on the mechanical spring(s) for the delay and the sustain in a reverb circuit. Granted they do work, and the frequency range for the reverb signal does not need to be as wide as the main signal.

Just there is a "better mousetrap".

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

I agree wholeheartedly!

Bob

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

Here's an addendum to above:

I don't disagree that for a few hundred dollars a great improvement could be made to mine or anyone else's reverb situation and for $800 to $1000, one could buy a new, better, more, ect. amp and have a much better reverb.

But there are thousands (maybe more) of the NV 400's out in the field being used daily and my question is this : What can be done to my amp (which I already have) for $25~$50 to vastly improve the reverb sound. With today's technology and engineering skills, I think the answer to my question is alot. The operative word is when.

Bob

mtulbert · From: Plano, Texas 75023

Bob,

Just a thought, if the setup is similar to a Fender Amp. why not just buy an inexpensive equalizer and just eq the return from the spring before it goes into the amp? If you can find an active equalizer you should not suffer from any line loss and could easily tailor the sounds to your needs.

I believe that you could find a boss stomp eq pedal for your price range and that should give you enough flexibilty in changing the tone of the reverb.

Regards,

Mark T.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

The short 3-spring reverb tanks (used by many famous amp Mfrs., Fender included) are junk...suitable only for garage bands. They were used because they are cheap, and they sound cheap. I have also tried many electronic units which fall short. They have a lot of sounds, but they don't have "the" sound. And until they do, the springs will be around.

I also think that the programmable units are impractical. Spending over a thousand dollars for an amp, and then having to buy "plug-ins" or spend hours programming to get a sound is patently absurd. Is performance without "gimmicks" too much to ask?

I can get any sound I want on my stereo system with only a few seconds of adjusting.

A guitar amp should be no different.

ajm · From: Los Angeles

There was an article in Vintage Guitar Magazine a few years ago dealing with reverb tanks. It told how to read the part numbers and decipher them for input impedance, output impedance and all that other stuff. I have it at home somewhere.

A quicker solution would be to make a couple of phone calls. I'd try calling John LeMay and see what he has to say. I'd also try calling Accutronics to see if they'd recommend a replacement. I think they're in Wisconsin but wouldn't swear to it; try a search on the web.

Let us know what you find out.

Bill Terry · From: Bastrop, TX

ajm,
I'd be mighty interested in that info from Vintage Guitar if you could find it. I've got several pans laying around that I'd like to identify.

I personally like the spring reverbs on Fender amps when they're working right.

------------------
bterry.home.netcom.com

Bob Metzger · From: Waltham (Boston), MA, USA

Accutronics is in northern Illinois near Chicago.

It is helpful to know the nomenclature of reverb tanks but not for purposes of substitution. The input and output impedances are generally well matched to their electronic counterparts. Subbing a tank designed for a Musicman, for example, with one designed for a Fender won't result in improved reverb sound. But it's nice to know what all the numbers mean. About the only meaningful substitution, besides a type-4 (2 spring) and a type-9 (3 spring), is the short, medium or long decay time. I've had limited experience with type-9's, but my early impression is that they are darker than a type-4 (besides being alot more complex and diffused).

Bob

ajm · From: Los Angeles

Bill;

I found the reverb articles from Vintage Guitar. There is one main one and one lesser one. The month they appeared is not shown on the page. The main one is pretty big so I wouldn't want to try typing it here.

They don't offer that issue as a "back issues" item to purchase any more. The guy that wrote it is Dave Funk. The last number I have for him is Nashville 615-742-1818.

Bill Terry · From: Bastrop, TX

ajm, thanks.

thurlon hopper · From: Elizabethtown Pa. USA

Gentlemen., whgile on the subject of reverb,
have any of you tried using the Zoom 505
with your steel? Every time i plug it in with
my Emmons, it makes a huffing sound in the amp. I have tried it with my Vibrosonic, two
different Peavey Bandits, and it works good
with my Strat or Tele or Les Paul but makes
that wierd sound with steel. Also i tried
using a Goodrich 120 (new) a Goodrich A-400
photo cell and a Sho-Bud pedal with the same
results. If any of you have had this problem.
how did you resolve it? Thanks for your answer. Thurlon

Forum Index > Electronics		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic