Can't tune 2nd string on Sierra Session 12 keyless

Bill McCloskey · From: Nanuet, NY

I just got a S-12 Sierra Sessions keyless from David Wright. The second string (G#) was slightly flat and the keyless tuner was screwed all the way down. I've been trying to change the string and am incredibly frustrated. I can't get the string even close to in tune no matter how hard I pull on the needle nose pliers I'm using to take the slack out. I bottom out of the tuner before it goes to pitch. And I can't pull it tight enough to get it close to tune before tightening down the hex screw.

Any help would be appreciated or anyone who can work on these guitars and get this in tune. The manual says something about a Pull rod to help get the slack out, but I don't have one of those and no idea where I would get one.

Ready to scream. an anyone help?
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Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Sierra shipped an aluminum rod with a hole in the center about 4 in. long for and pulling the strings up to a closer pitch. You can buy a piece of wood dowel say, 1/2 to 5/8 inch and drill a hole in it to run the string through.

Here's what I did with my keyless Sierras 3rd string G#:

1. Use said device to pull string tight as possible

2. lock down string

3. tune pitch close as you can get it with the tuner. This will take some of the stretch out of it.

4. loosen lock nut and pull tight again.

5. lock down string and finish tuning string to pitch.

This should get your string up to pitch.

Also, forget using a 12 ga. string. 11 is tough enough.

Yes, this is one of the problems with Sierras. The tuner screw for the lever runs out of threads before you get to pitch sometimes.

I also found a way to put a longer 6-32 screw in the lever for the 3rd string so I could get more travel.

I've owned 2 or 3 Sierra Crown keyless 14 stringers and I always forget about this until I have to change strings again.

That said, I'd still like to have another one.

Bill McCloskey · From: Nanuet, NY

when you pull the string are you pulling at a 90 degree angle? Away from the steel or are you pulling it 180 degrees towards the bridge? I'm trying with needle nose plyiers and can't get close to in pitch.
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Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

180 degrees straight line down the length of the guitar toward the bridge.

See the drawing from steelguitar.com sierra manual.

https://steelguitar.com/manuals/Sierra_TechnicalManual.pdf

pgs. 16 & 17

Bill McCloskey · From: Nanuet, NY

I saw that picture but couldn’t make sense of . But I think I have it now. I will try again tomorrow
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Ross Shafer · From: Petaluma, California

here's a link to the video on Sierra's website regarding changing that pesky 3rd string. http://sierrasteels.com/support/support-tips.html

One of the first projects I undertook when beginning my project with Sierra was to design a retrofittable new tuner finger that allowed for more travel for this exact issue. Unfortunately my attempt at doing so did not add a substantial enough gain due to the design of the net and tuner housing....I made sure to design around this issue on the new Sierra's I produce.

An "advanced" technique to help with this challenge is to loosen the return spring to slack when installing the string. just be sure to bring it back to its original tension (count the turns as you back it out) before tuning it up to pitch.

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

Bill, I have always used a dowel with a hole in the middle as a pulling tool. Your Steel should have come with one.
I pick the F# note to hear a reference pitch, then use the pulling tool to pull the G# string string up to F#, and lock it down (pulling the string and turning the lock-screw simultaneously).
Then tune to G# with the finger-tuner.
You will Master this, and be able to change a string in about 1 minute soon.

Note: Use a T-Handle type of Allen-wrench that will stay in the the locking-screw hole while you prepare the string.

Bill McCloskey · From: Nanuet, NY

Thanks Ross and Pete. It is that pesky 2nd string for me since I'm using David Wright's tuning tuned up a half step to B6 rather than Bb.

Had a convo with David and turns out he had included a string puller taped under the guitar that I didn't realize I had. And Jim Palenscar is making me a longer tuning screw.

That said: I'm loving this Sierra and David Wright's tuning.
_________________
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Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

I play a very similar tuning.
I have the G# in the string-2 position.
I tune to Eb9/Bb6 because I love sliding to/from open E9 or open B6 on fret-1, without having to lift the bar or use open strings.

Tom Campbell · From: Houston, Texas, USA

Over the past 20 yrs. I've owned 3 Sierra Session 12 string on 1 Sierra Crown 12 string guitars.
I've never hand to bottom out the tuning screw...the most I've ever had to screw it down was a little over half-way.

When you wrap the string around the tuning screw tighten the screw to the point it just starts to grip the string...then back off just enough so the string is free to move.

I pull the string as parallel to the neck/fret board as possible. Pull with all your "might" and tighten down the screw. I could usually pull it up to a D or D# on the first pull. Repeat the process until you get the string to an F#. Then finish off the tuning to a G# with the tuning screw.

I sold my last Sierra about 4 yrs. ago...arthritis in my hands ended my "love affair" with the keyless Sierra.

James Quackenbush · From: Pomona, New York, USA

Bill,
Call me…..8four5 two71 8zero five8…..Jim

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

On a keyless GFI, I use a block of wood or a set of Vice-Grips to pull strings on the guitar. I also use a tuner to pull the 3rd G# string to F/F# area. So it takes less pull to tune the G# note. With a very short pull, No problem with string note changes even with no nut roller, Longest pull about 3/8 inches. These strings have been on the guitar awhile, And near changing time, In this picture.

Jim Norman · From: Virginia, USA

Ross Shafer · From: Petaluma, California

Hi Jim,

I literally just texted you before diving into forum for a few minutes. No there's no reason not to use a dowel like that on the newer system. That said the newer system does not require nearly the pre-tensioning of the old design so I just use a pair of small pliers myself.

NOTE: the new design can be tuned up to pitch with whatever pre-tension you can get without any tool....the tuner will be much further down in the guitar than the rest though. To have it up near the level of the other tuners (an aesthetic concern more than anything else) some pre-tensioning is neccesary.

Jim Norman · From: Virginia, USA

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