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Topic: Stainless Pull Rods |
Dennis Detweiler
From:
Solon, Iowa, US
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Posted 6 Aug 2006 11:14 am |
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Is there a vendor at the Convention that sells 1/8" stainless steel pull rods? Checked around here. "Ace is not the place".
Is there an obvious stability of staying in tune with temp changes with the stainless rods?
Thanks,
Dennis |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 6 Aug 2006 5:47 pm
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Dennis,
If you're handy with tools, go to a welding supply, and get some 1/8" tig welding rods, cut to length and thread 6-32. Be sure to get threading fluid for stainless. Or you could check with a machine shop and get a price for what you need...If you are changing from aluminum to stainless, I don't think it's worth the effort/expense, course my hearing aint what it used to be.
BF |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 6 Aug 2006 6:10 pm
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1/8" rod threads a lot better at 5-40 than it does at 6-32. (Most steels that use 1/8" rod use a 5-40 thread.)
Aluminum expands almost twice as much with temperature as stainless steel does, that's why almost no one uses aluminum for pull rods.[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 06 August 2006 at 07:13 PM.] |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 6 Aug 2006 8:00 pm
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A lot of PSG Mfgr's are no longer using 1/8” rods! They are slightly smaller on GFI, Derby and others! You had better measure the rods’ dia. first, before replacing them or the nylon~tuners might give you a problem! In fact, if the rods are less than 1/8”. so are the holes in the changer and a 1/8” rod won't fit!
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“Big John”
a.k.a. {Keoni Nui}
Current Equipment
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 9:20 am
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Order "drill rod" from Industrial Metal Supply in Burbank CA. They have it in more sizes than you can find welding rod in. I got 7/64" for my Super-Pro style 'Bud from them.
I agree about the 5-40 threads. A 40 thread pitch (threads-per-inch) will provide more tuning accuracy than a 32-thread pitch. It's a little tricky to cut the threads on 1/8" rod, but I think it's worth the effort.
You'll need a tap, tap handle, and cutting fluid (oil). Bevel the end of the rod first on a grinder or with a file to make it easier to start the tap. after cutting the threads, clean them up with a fine wire brush to get rid of all the metal shavings.
Good luck.
PS I also recommend a pair of Vise-Grips to hold the rod while you thread it.[This message was edited by John Groover McDuffie on 07 August 2006 at 10:25 AM.] |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 10:18 am
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quote:
It's a little tricky to cut the threads on 1/8" rod, but I think it's worth the effort.
You'll need a tap, tap handle, and cutting fluid (oil).
Better make that a button die instead of a tap! Taps are for cutting internal threads, dies are for external threads. We know what you're talking about, but the guy at the tool place probably doesn't.  |
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Dennis Detweiler
From:
Solon, Iowa, US
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 11:30 am
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Thanks guys! I have a 1976 MSA U-12 and 1982 U-12 Zum that I want to try stainless on the A&B pedals. If it's an improvement in stability, I'll rework a few more. However, I'll have to make a jig to drill those microscopic roll pin holes for the Zum rods.
Thanks,
Dennis |
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Fay Reid
From:
Orono, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 5:08 pm
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| Another location: STAINLESS STEEL 1/8" ROD 24' NEW ALLOY 304 at eBay. Price is $12.99. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 5:33 pm
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| Dennis, your MSA should already have stainless-steel pull rods. |
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 6:53 pm
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| Oops - of course, I mean a die. Thanks for correcting me. |
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 7 Aug 2006 6:55 pm
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My MSA came to me with a variety of pull rods. some aluminum, some welding rod. I replaced all the non-stainless ones with stainless.
[This message was edited by John Groover McDuffie on 07 August 2006 at 07:56 PM.] |
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