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Author Topic:  Rodding installation order - best practices?
Greg Gefell


From:
Upstate NY
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 3:26 am    
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When installing brand new uncut unbent virgin rods, is it best to work from ABC pedals towards the changer or the other way around? Seems like you'd want to get the longest rods/pulls done before moving on to shorter ones but I'd like to hear from those that have done this from scratch.
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 4:03 am    
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I think it's easiest to start with the 1st string, which will be farthest away from you when the the guitar is upside down. Then the 2nd string and so on. On strings that have raises and lowers, do the lowers first, so those rods won't be in the way when you do the raises. If you start with the ABC pedals, those rods will be in your way as you work on the other rods.
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Greg Gefell


From:
Upstate NY
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 4:19 am    
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That makes sense. I was thinking of it as a working left to right issue whereas your suggestion makes it more of a back to front.
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Bill Ferguson


From:
Milton, FL USA
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 5:25 am    
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Now, I do the raised first, so that the lowering rods will not be in the way and I work shortest rod to longest rod.

Seems like doing the lowering rods first.

I also start with string 1.
IMHO
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Dan Kelly


From:
Boston, MA
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 5:40 am    
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When doing a "ground-up" re-rodding, starting with the shortest changes (closest to the changer, itself)seems to make sense to me. That way, one would have the room needed to attach the rods to the bell cranks without having to work around the rods for the longer pulls.
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 11:11 am     Rodding...or RE-Rodding
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If this is new to you, you could go to Google & view some pictures of guitars already working. Study them from key end to the changer & see where the pitfalls are....

If you have a guitar & it hasn't been changed, take some pics & study them.

Good Luck...
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John McClung


From:
Olympia WA, USA
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 3:00 pm    
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Here's a shrewd tip from my pal Mickey Adams: he likes to re-rod starting from string 1 down to string 10 (string 12 in my case). He recommend putting in all bell cranks nicely lined up with the changer fingers first, then add rods. New concept for me, but does make a lot of sense and makes it easier I would think.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 3:55 pm    
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John McClung wrote:
Here's a shrewd tip from my pal Mickey Adams: he likes to re-rod starting from string 1 down to string 10 (string 12 in my case). He recommend putting in all bell cranks nicely lined up with the changer fingers first, then add rods. New concept for me, but does make a lot of sense and makes it easier I would think.


Yep. That's how I learned to do it when I started working at Sierra.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 5 Oct 2017 4:04 pm    
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John McClung wrote:
Here's a shrewd tip from my pal Mickey Adams: he likes to re-rod starting from string 1 down to string 10 (string 12 in my case). He recommend putting in all bell cranks nicely lined up with the changer fingers first, then add rods. New concept for me, but does make a lot of sense and makes it easier I would think.


Yep. That's how I learned to do it when I started working at Sierra.
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Jim Bob Sedgwick

 

From:
Clinton, Missouri USA
Post  Posted 6 Oct 2017 10:48 am    
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when setting up the E-9 Neck, I find the C pedal is the easiest as they interfere with the rods for pedal A and
Pedal B. Assuming you are setting up an Emmons set up. I don't know if the Day set up also holds true. YMMV. Smile
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Greg Gefell


From:
Upstate NY
Post  Posted 6 Oct 2017 10:55 am    
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Great ideas here. I have the bell cranks laid out where they need to go which gives me an idea of where the congested areas will be. Working from string 1 towards 10 definitely makes sense.
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