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Topic: Pickup Height and installation |
Andy Henriksen
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 5:14 am |
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Hi,
I'm (OMG SO SLOWLY) building a lap steel. I'm to the point now where I am ready to mount the pickup.
It's a Lollar Console Grande pickup.
I tried it out the other day (pictured below), and found that generally, just sitting on the body of the guitar, it seemed to be pretty close to the right height, but I'm sure there are guidelines. I'd prefer a clean sound, but obviously want it to respond well to picking dynamics and such.
So, what height should I shoot for?
[edited to remove a comment that doesn't apply...]
Here's where I currently am:
Thanks!
Last edited by Andy Henriksen on 3 Oct 2017 3:55 am; edited 2 times in total |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 5:41 am awesome build
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Really nice build going - bravo
Basic rules =
Center line across pickup, 2" from Bridge Zero.
Bottom of fattest string 1/8" above magnets, sometimes a little bit more.
Some folks use 2 quarters thickness and + a little if you want more clarity.
You can use weather strip on the bottom of the pickup to act as a spring to give a little up movement for small adjustment.
Tiny sheet metal screws are at ACE is the place.
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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Andy Henriksen
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 5:50 am
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Thank you, George!!! I'm pretty happy with it so far...except that I was sloppy with my layout of the string-through holes and now the string spacing is slightly off. Based on my 15 minutes of playing the other day, it's not off enough that it effects picking, but it does look slightly less uniform than I would like. Oh, well.
I'll take better care on the next one, probably printing a paper template for the string-thru hole locations, rather than relying on measuring. Live and learn...
The weather stripping is a great idea!  |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 11:41 am
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The last one I built I made the Pup 2" from the bridge and it sounds very nice. I also shoot for 1/8" clearance on the strings. I usually try to shoot for making the strings pretty close to the poles, then I fine tune the Pup with 1/32" thick washers. You might think this is crazy, but I didn't want to ruin the looks of my acrylic ivory ring with 2 unneeded screws so I got this blue stuff from Staples called sticky poster something or other. It is very pliable and can be pressed pretty thin between you finger and thumb. I put 4 pads of those on the underside of the ring and it hasn't moved a bit. If you want to adjust the Pup height, you simply grab the Pup and give a nice gentle steady pull and it will let loose. I pulled mine off 2x with a little slack in the strings without removing anything. Hope this helps you all.
BTW Andy, that is one nice looking Lap Steel. Great job!
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 2:20 pm
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Nice looking project Andy !  Where are you located ? I'm between Saginaw and Frankenmuth !
Bill |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2017 4:43 pm
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| Quote: |
| t seemed to be pretty close to the right height, but I'm sure there are guidelines. |
There are NO guidelines.
Too many variables - pickup output, pickup voicing, polepieces flat or staggered (or adjustable),magnet type and location (magnetic poles or bar magnet) body construction and wood type, pickup mounting method, amplifier type, volume and distance from guitar, string type (stainless, nickel plated, "pure nickel" AND round vs half-round vs flatwound.....
There are huge differences between direct ("hard") mounting and suspended ("floating") mounting and the suspension type - surgical tubing works differently from springs, for example.
With a solid-body guitar I start with a surgical tubing mount (if possible) and experiment with heights until I find what gets the best touch response, doesn't lose sustain due to pickup magnetism (this is where string type AND magnet type makes a big difference) and isn't too microphonic (again, mounting type matters here).
I'll adjust it closer and further from the strings, and if there are adjustable polepieces almost always raise the high E, B and D...except sometimes...
...and response can change significantly if you turn slightly towards or move closer to the amp. Pickup height can often do MUCH more than fiddling with volume and/or tone controls.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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