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Post new topic Help with my RKR lever - Issue with Return
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Author Topic:  Help with my RKR lever - Issue with Return
Michael Harrington

 

From:
Ann Arbor
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2017 9:27 am    
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Hi forumites,

I've got an old ShoBud that has some return issues in the RKR lever. Being that this is my first real 3x4 steel, (coming from a 3x1 Maverick) I'm stuck on figuring out how to resolve this issue.

When I use the RKR, the string detunes a 1/2 step as it should, but the lever itself ends up not returning to its normal resting position. I have to physically push it back in place a few inches to get it back to its normal position. I found this somewhat unusual as it's the only lever that has this issue.

I've attached a photo of the underside, and circled in blue where I think I'm having an issue- there's supposed to be a screw that's missing. Another knee lever has this screw, but I'm not entirely sure if this is the case.

Any help would be great. I would like to start using this lever!

Michael Harrington




Last edited by Michael Harrington on 13 Sep 2017 3:28 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2017 9:44 am    
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There is a spring that's supposed to return the string to pitch. Maybe that's your problem. Very Happy
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Michael Harrington

 

From:
Ann Arbor
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2017 3:25 pm    
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Erv, where on my steel is that spring supposed to be? And just to clarify, I'm not talking about the returning pitch of the string but the returning position of my knee lever. When I move my knee right, the lever gets slightly stuck in place a few inches too far to the right. My original post may have been unclear- Oops!

Michael
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 13 Sep 2017 8:09 pm    
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Erv is correct, that could very well be the problem. The springs are located on bottom of changer, one on each string. Their tension can usually be adjusted by a screw that's into end of spring on some models. If not adjustable, I'd swap the spring out with string that doesn't have a lower. Spring may be stronger. Other than that, could be a binding problem. Check it out by taking one lower loose at a time and see if it still does it.
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D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
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Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2017 6:59 am    
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well I'll go the other way, probably not the spring, two things come to mind .

1 the changer finger or changer axle itself may be very gooey, not free moving and the changer finger rivet can be worn.

2 the mechanics of the knee lever are really worn and dirty, not free moving.

Any slight pressure will prevent that K lever from returning or the note from returning. The knee lever engages the note but has nothing to do with it returning unless it is binding, as mentioned above.

Those return springs are maybe at best helper springs. Many Sho Bud folks take them off all together. Two recent Sho Bud changer disassembly cleanings, when I put them back together, those return springs didn't help one way or the other.

TEST.


unscrew the hex nut on the tuning end, all the way out so the K Lever does not do anything to the changer finger when activated.

Push the changer finger in ( by hand or with a non abrasive tool) push it in to reach the lowered note, then release it, what happens. First things first.
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CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website


Last edited by Tony Prior on 15 Sep 2017 4:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Michael Yahl


From:
Troy, Texas!
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2017 7:31 am    
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Michael, If I understand you correctly, you have the pivot bolt on the knee lever tighten to the point that the knee lever stays in a set position relative to the your playing position. When you activate the knee lever sufficiently to get the pitch change and the knee lever stops its travel, you have effectively moved its relative static position. (It has slipped on the bracket it's attached to).

If this is the case then Yes, you need to go to ACE Hardware and get a #5-40 or #6-32x3/8" long Socket Head Set Screw (SHSC) and thread it into the hole that you have circled. This will now allow you to set the relative position of your knee lever and have the proper reaction point (the head of the set screw) so that the knee lever isn't moving around.

Just buy both of the above set screws (approx. $.20 each) as I can't determine from a picture the exact size.

Just FYI, This is a Sho~Bud Professional that someone has removed the C6 pedals and neck hardware.

All of the above suggestions about Cleaning, Lubing, and Binding issues also apply. Check all of those things.
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Michael Harrington

 

From:
Ann Arbor
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2017 12:06 pm    
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Thanks guys for all the replies! I'm playing out with it today and tomorrow, so I'll have to wait to make any adjustments.

Michael - Yes, this is exactly what I was trying to explain in my original post. Thanks for being so specific with the part # from ACE. It'll make the trip so much easier on me. I'm going to clean, lube, and restring the guitar and see if my problem still exists.

More later-

Michael Harrington
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Greg Lambert

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 17 Sep 2017 5:36 pm    
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Just from looking at the pic and guessing , it sure doesnt look like its been lubricated in a while. If your string is returning to the correct pitch I wouldnt think it would be a spring issue.
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 17 Sep 2017 8:29 pm    
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Michael, how did it work out on your two gigs?

These rack-and-barrel Sho-Buds are cool guitars.


It's not hard to completely disassemble and clean up the parts. Michael Yahl makes some nice stainless rods with the hex-socket end, and the brass tuning barrels.

Can we see a picture of your's?
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Michael Harrington

 

From:
Ann Arbor
Post  Posted 18 Sep 2017 7:28 pm    
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Dan,

It worked out just fine! I was playing a few church services and was needed for ambient swells and some fills to back another guitarist and singer. I love the look of your BUD by the way! Way cool..

I'm going to visit ACE this Wednesday to grab that part via Michael Yahl's suggestion, and I'll post some photos for you once it's in that lever. I'm not sure if you want a photo of the guitar itself or under the skirt, so I'll take some of both. Mr. Green

Best-

Michael Harrington
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Michael Harrington

 

From:
Ann Arbor
Post  Posted 20 Sep 2017 2:57 pm    
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Update:

I grabbed the part that Michael mentioned, and viola! The lever stops like it should, and returns to it's correct resting position. (Thanks Michael!)

I also did some extra work that needed to be done when I first bought the guitar. I ended up removing the black pickup switch on the side of the body. It was making me nervous in the case and I was waiting for it to snap off on my way to a gig.. I also did a little bit of soldering on some wire connected to the jack I didn't need and cleaned up the hanging wires by tucking them back neatly, via zip ties. You can see the before and after in the photos. Much cleaner now!

After working on the troubled knee lever, I ended up readjusting the action on all the other levers and oiled up the underside- what a world of difference. It plays much smoother now, and after a restring it feels brand new. Here's some pics of the underside upon request:











Thanks guys for all the help !!


- Michael Harrington
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