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Author Topic:  Cleaning Changer in Place
Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 5:54 am    
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Help! I want to clean the changer on my Williams 400, but it looks like the whole neck has to come off to get it out of the guitar, and I don't think I'm ready for all that. I thought I could take the neck off, but the some of the screws are inaccessible, unless you take the whole thing apart.
I was wondering what I should use as far as spray solvents that won't mess up the finish.
The previous owner put a bunch of oil in there and it has attracted a bunch of fuzz, and some of the fingers are a little bit sluggish.


Last edited by Tim Heidner on 6 Sep 2017 6:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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ajm

 

From:
Los Angeles
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:12 am    
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To take a stab at rephrasing his question:

Is there a way to clean the changer leaving the guitar as is and WITHOUT doing a lot of disassembly?

This may have been covered in the past, as there have been many topics on disassembly and cleaning.

Granted, a thorough cleaning would require taking everything apart, but some of us (me raising hand) don't have the skills/tools/patience to do that.
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:21 am    
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Maybe send an email to Bill Rudolph at Williams. He is a nice fellow and may give you some insight and answer your question. Just a thought, If your Williams is a wood lacquer body I would be very careful about using solvents to clean the changer in place.
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:23 am    
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I sent him an email earlier, haven't had much luck getting him to answer emails in the past, don't know why.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:26 am    
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There are threads on the forum about "in place" changer cleaning. I tried it on my 35 year old Franklin and it didn't work. I had "black crap" oozing out the top around the fingers. The in place cleaning helped but within a week the black crap was oozing out again. I bit the bullet and removed and cleaned the E9th changer. It was a major task as the neck had to come off and the fretboard had to be removed to get to the neck screws. Its been about two months and the changer now works like new (and no more black crap oozing out).
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:29 am    
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I did read that thread, and several others. I don't have a bunch of black crud oozing, but I can see some on the fingers underneath.
I want to try it before I tear everything apart and then can't put it back together right.
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 6:31 am    
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Hi Tim,

I think Jack hit it right and I have to say I agree with him about removing the changer. I have done a lot of this kinda work as has many here on the forum. It will be well worth the effort to do it right the first time.

Take pictures, catalog parts removed, take notes, and above all take your time.

Do it once and do it right...

Cheers,
Scaggs
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:24 am    
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Well, I got it out, kinda cruddy. I think all that fuzz is coming from the case.

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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:27 am    
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Man this stuff will do a great job! Keep it away from plastics LOL

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/brakleen-174-non-chlorinated-brake-parts-cleaner-14-wt-oz-05050.html
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:39 am    
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Putting it on the list! What do you use for lube, Mike?
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:40 am    
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Tim Heidner wrote:
Putting it on the list! What do you use for lube, Mike?


I like white lithium grease but do not use too much as it will attract dirt.
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:45 am    
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10-4, thanks!
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:46 am    
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Glad you got it out, it's the right thing to do !

My Legrande II was oozing black goo at the top of the changer onto my right hand.

here are the before and after photo's.

I used thinner to clean all the parts and the axle required some big time wire wheel to get it back to a smooth surface with no grooves. A gun bore brush was used for the inside of the spacers and inside of the bridges.

I used a light coating of 3 in 1 oil for lube.

Both changers took about 10 hours working in between naps.








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Last edited by Tony Prior on 6 Sep 2017 7:59 am; edited 11 times in total
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 7:47 am    
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That's purty!
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 9:15 am    
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I never would have gotten all that caked on crud off the axle without taking it apart.
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 10:49 am    
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I found some stuff in the closet called Gun Flush that works even better than the BraKleen, doesn't dry up as fast, cuts right thru that gunk.
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 10:50 am    
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Tim Heidner wrote:
I found some stuff in the closet called Gun Flush that works even better than the BraKleen, doesn't dry up as fast, cuts right thru that gunk.


Very nice! I bet you're glad you took it apart now Smile
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 10:52 am    
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I know I will when I get it all put together and playing again. I was having issues with the 6th string lower returning sharp, hoping this will fix it.
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 10:55 am    
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Tim Heidner wrote:
I know I will when I get it all put together and playing again. I was having issues with the 6th string lower returning sharp, hoping this will fix it.


Make sure you lube that nut roller while you're at it ok
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 11:27 am    
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All cleaned up and ready to reinstall, even got some sanding in on the string surface grooves. One is damaged, might have to get Bill to sell me a replacement.

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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 12:07 pm    
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Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tim Heidner wrote:
I know I will when I get it all put together and playing again. I was having issues with the 6th string lower returning sharp, hoping this will fix it.


Make sure you lube that nut roller while you're at it ok
I'd like to take that out to clean it, but it's in there pretty solid.'
Do I just tap on the rod and try to work it out sideways?
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 12:32 pm    
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Tim Heidner wrote:
Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tim Heidner wrote:
I know I will when I get it all put together and playing again. I was having issues with the 6th string lower returning sharp, hoping this will fix it.


Make sure you lube that nut roller while you're at it ok
I'd like to take that out to clean it, but it's in there pretty solid.'
Do I just tap on the rod and try to work it out sideways?


Gently remove
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 2:04 pm    
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I just had a nice chat with Bill, he got me straightened out. Smile
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 2:35 pm    
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Nice job on cleaning the changer. Glad you got I'd done the right way, labor intensive effort but worth it.
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2017 4:00 pm    
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Taking a while to put back together. I'm ready to start putting the rods back in now.
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