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Author Topic:  Correct wiring for power strip?
Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 4:38 pm     Reply with quote

Here it is....anyone know what is wrong? You can test it with a meter and it is showing 121volts with the switch in the off or on position? Any help will really appreciated....thanks jack
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 4:48 pm     Reply with quote

If that's a switch, it's wired very incorrectly. I don't have time to explain what to do, but I'm sure someone else will jump on this for you. Don't try to use it as it is presently.
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Mike
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 4:54 pm     Reply with quote

It is showing voltage because the switch isn't wired properly. The terminals are jumped, as opposed to breaking the circuit. Basically what you have there is a multiple outlet extension cord.
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 5:14 pm     Switch? Reply with quote

Strange thing is this is how it was hooked up when I bought the seat that it goe,s in. It was not working at all when I got it so I replaced the switch and it works, I used it for a couple of hours last Saturday night before I realized that the switch was not cutting the power off. The ground wire was hooked up in the middle but I took it loose and it still works but still doe,s not cut off. I have replaced the on/off switch the 2/nd time....thanks jack
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 6:24 pm     Diagram? Reply with quote

Anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram?....thanks jack
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Bill L. Wilson


From:
Oklahoma, USA
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 8:15 pm     The Switch. Reply with quote

The switch is supposed to be a a cutoff for the black (hot) side of the circuit. The neutral (white) wire goes directly to the wide blade of the plug. There shouldn't be a ground wire connected to the switch. There should be a ground connecting the plug to the case and the plug receptical.......So, connect the black wire to one side of the switch, from the switch to the small blade side of the receptical....Connect the white wire directly to the large blade side of the receptical plug.....Connect the ground (green) wire to the case and the ground lug on the receptical. And pull all of that solder and wires apart and start over.
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Dennis Detweiler


From:
Solon, Iowa, US
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 8:45 pm     Reply with quote

It's definitely wired wrong. I think it's the wrong switch and should only have two terminals, but it can be done using one side of the switch (center terminal and left OR right terminal).
The black wire from the cord should go to one switch post. Another black wire from the other switch post should go to one side of the plug.
The white wire from the cord should connect directly to the other side of the plug.
Also, best to have someone make the connections that knows about the polarity and has basic wiring knowledge.
_________________
1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, Revelation Preamp, TC Electronic M-350 Processor, Carvin HT 400 Stereo Rack Head, 15" BW, Hilton Pedal, 1949 Epiphone D-8. And, too much extra gear.
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Dennis Detweiler


From:
Solon, Iowa, US
Post Posted 31 Aug 2017 8:46 pm     Reply with quote

Bill covered it. Switch looks like an on to on (center post remains incoming hot?)If so, adds to the confusion.
_________________
1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, Revelation Preamp, TC Electronic M-350 Processor, Carvin HT 400 Stereo Rack Head, 15" BW, Hilton Pedal, 1949 Epiphone D-8. And, too much extra gear.
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 6:11 am     Switch? Reply with quote

This is just like the switch that came with the seat when I bought it from a forum member, and was hooked up the same way you see it now. The ground looks like it is connected to the switch but it is not....thanks jack.... an actual diagram would help

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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 6:38 am     Reply with quote

The reason for the extra connection, is to provide a path to neutral for the "ON" lamp. Determine the "switched" pair of contacts, (on/off), the other terminal is the neutral connection for the indicator.
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 6:56 am     Switch? Reply with quote

Bill, I think I understand what you are saying, but would it be possible to send me a drawing of the wiring?....thanks jack
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 8:19 am     Reply with quote

Jack, this was on the web, notice the LTA diagram. Continuity check your switch with an ohm meter to verify the terminals. (A resistance reading will be the lamp connections, no resistance will be on, and infinite resistance will be off).
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-Wire-Diagrams.pdf
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b0b


From:
Northern California
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 8:30 am     Reply with quote

Looks like it's currently wired as a ground polarity switch, not an on/off switch.
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-b0b- (SGF Admin) a.k.a. Bobby Lee ♪ CopedentsRice & BeanWine Country SwingStella
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 8:36 am     Switch? Reply with quote

Bill, don,t take this wrong, I am very appreciative of all the help. But I could understand it better if I could see an actual drawing of where the wires connect. According to what I am understanding the ground is correct, the green wire connects to the chassis and from the chassis to the terminal ground, it is not connected to the middle terminal on the switch. My question doe,s the white wire go to the terminal on the strip only or doe,s it still connect to the switch terminal?....thanks jack
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 9:11 am     Polarity switch? Reply with quote

bOb, I think you are right, I installed a new switch exactly the way it was hooked up when I got the seat. I used it for about 2/hours with my nv112 amp with no problem. I checked it with a meter and in the off or on position it reads 121 volts. When you turn the switch off the light dims but it still reads 121 volts....I just need to make the switch turn it off and on....thanks jack
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 9:27 am     Reply with quote

Jack did you look at the diagram in the link I posted? There is a drawing labeled LTA.
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 10:06 am     Lta? Reply with quote

Bill. I don,t mean to sound dumb, but I guess I am, I really just need to know where each wire goe,s. I guess that photo don,t exist....thanks jack
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 1:39 pm     Reply with quote

The switch has the terminals marked 1-2-3, the LTA diagram shows where each (numbered terminal), goes in the circuit. In your case the load is the power strip. #3 is neutral, (both in and to strip), #1 is hot/black out to the strip, and #2 is the hot/black from the wall/cord.
Double check that #1 makes, and breaks contact with #2 when switched before wiring!
(Note also that it will only work correctly when wired as indicated).
After looking at your pic again, I assume the RH terminal is brass, and should have the white wire, (from the wall) connected to it, as well as the white it already has. The black from the wall should be connected to #2, the middle connector, (with no other connections)! The other white wire is wired to the hot side of the strip, #1 terminal. It will be energized when switched, check it!
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 3:58 pm     Hookup? Reply with quote

This is the way I have it wired now and it checks 120/volts in the on position and checks 000 in the off position. The only thing is the light stays on. How do I correct that?...thanks jack
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:03 pm     Reply with quote

The black should be in the center as it is, the white, (on the right of the photo) should go to the RH switch terminal, (if the numbers correspond to the previous post), not to the ground?.

Last edited by Bill A. Moore on 1 Sep 2017 4:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:04 pm     Hookup? Reply with quote

This is the way I have it wired now and it checks 120/volts in the on position and checks 000 in the off position. The only thing is the light stays on. How do I correct that?...thanks jack
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:13 pm     Switch? Reply with quote

Thanks b0b, I have another new switch, will try this right now....jack
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 5:30 pm     Lost photo? Reply with quote

B0b, I lost the photo that you posted, but I tried it and I get 60v with switch on and the same reading with it off. I went back to double check and cannot find the photo?....thanks jack
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b0b


From:
Northern California
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 6:44 pm     Reply with quote

Yeah, the photo I posted was wrong so I removed it. Sorry for the confusion.

This is the actual wiring diagram. The light bulb is internal to the switch - it connects between terminals 1 and 3. "LOAD" is the outlet you're connecting it to.



The "E" wires are the black and white wires from the power cord. Doesn't mattr which is which because it's AC. The trick is knowing which terminal is "1" and which is "3".
_________________
-b0b- (SGF Admin) a.k.a. Bobby Lee ♪ CopedentsRice & BeanWine Country SwingStella
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Jack Goodson


From:
new brockton,alabama (home of me and don helms
Post Posted 1 Sep 2017 7:06 pm     Terminal? Reply with quote

One of the terminals on the switch looks like copper, I was assuming it is 3?....thanks jack
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