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Topic: Re-stringing issue - Sho Bud The Pro II custom |
Seamus OSullivan
From:
Victoria, Australia
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Posted 27 Aug 2017 8:45 pm |
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| I recently bought an beautiful Sho Bud Pro II custom from a great guy called Harry Gerard in Maryville TN. It ihasnt been played in decades and appears in almost original condition. I am, however, having problems getting the two lower c6th strings on the guitar (.54w and .68w). It seems the thickness of the string is making it difficult to hold firm at the changer end. Is there a trick to this? |
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John Swain
From:
Winchester, Va
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 5:12 am
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| If you're having trouble fitting them into the slot I take a small metal file and narrow the windings right above the loop and ball end. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 5:53 am
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| Alternately, I have slightly flattened the windings just above the ball with a stout needlenose pliers. |
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W. C. Edgar
From:
Iowa City Iowa, Madison CT, Nashville, Austin, Phoenix, L or R Coast Soon!
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 1:52 pm
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I used to have that problem using Bill Lawrence strings on the back neck.
They used a .078 on the 10th string.
I would take a small pair of vice grips I had i my seat and squeeze the hell out of it.
WC
_________________
First owner of Steelseat.com
1980 Sho-Bud Pro II & 1977 Sho-Bud Pro l
Lawrence 610 Pickups
1979 Peavey LTD
1980 Peavey Nashville 400
Goodrich L-120
Toured with Tim McGraw, Alan Jackson & more
wcedgar.com |
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Barry Blackwood
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 3:11 pm
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Using your favorite tool, push the ball end up into the slot. Worked every time for me.  |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 3:25 pm
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| Jon's needle nose ball end winding flattening technique is what works for me on slotted changers. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 28 Aug 2017 7:38 pm
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| Jerry Overstreet wrote: |
| Jon's needle nose ball end winding flattening technique is what works for me on slotted changers. |
Jon's got a technique named after him!  |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 29 Aug 2017 9:57 am
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I have had a Super Pro for 33 years, and I came up with a method of installing strings 9 & 10 of the C6 that works fine. No need to flatten the string; just pre-bend the string with needle-nose pliers so it looks like in my (sloppy) drawing. Then you can hook the ball end under the notch, and the core wire fits into the slot. When tightened the string snugs up against the finger but not inside the slot.
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Seamus OSullivan
From:
Victoria, Australia
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Posted 30 Aug 2017 11:47 am Sho-bud re-stringing
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It worked!! This is amazing.... thank you all so much!
I really appreciate your help. Seamus |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2017 4:28 pm
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| Just curious--which method did you use that worked? |
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Seamus OSullivan
From:
Victoria, Australia
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 10:45 am Re-stringing issue - Sho Bud The Pro II custom
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Hi Brint,
I did both to be honest, but your method of creating a hook was the most effective on my sho-bud.
Thanks again - saved me a lot of heartche. |
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Tim Russell
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 11:28 am
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All good suggestions, however, Brint's was the magic solution for my case as well. Sierra Crown D-10, and the 10th string C6 slot is the same width as all the others. Makes it a real hassle to get a string positioned in there without some real finagling.
Creating a hook above the ball turned out to be the best method.
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Sierra Crown D-10 |
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