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Author Topic:  Stringmaster project
Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 12 Jul 2017 7:38 pm    
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Little rough, but a good foundation for a project to make it mine. Someone did a crappy job slapping some yellowish paint around the roughed up edges. Outer neck has holes in the pan where some push rods may have been at one time, and has sloppily applied wood filler on the bottom side. I'm thinking strip and refinish, new electronics. Switches are good, tuners okay, pots will prob replace. Pickups sound muffled to me, but haven't put good strings on it. Maybe I can find the screw on bridge covers.
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 10:24 am     Could be a prize!
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Hi Brad,
Could be a prize with a good original color finish, or even a color you like best!...
Maybe that guy who parts them out on E-Bay would have the covers and possible a pan too? Lot's of people don't like what he does, but at least there is a place to get the parts you want.
I've also seen on E-Bay a lot of the older style Fender decals.
Looks like a great project.
Best of luck.
Andy Smile
_________________
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 10:52 am    
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You can get your refinishing supplies from:
www.reranch.com
They have the Fender blonde that I used on this quad:
To get the "vintage" look, use a tinted clear coat.
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 12:16 pm    
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Thanks, that's just what I need. I think I will stick to the original color, but I like the tinted clear coat idea. I know people have opinions about restorations but somebody already botched this one some time ago. Maybe I can make mine a close twin of yours Erv Smile

One tuner pan has holes in it, another is a little bit nicked up. A couple of them have a bit of pitting in the chrome, so I may be looking for a couple pans in addition to the bridge covers. As this is an early long scale it doesn't look like the Kluson repro's will cut it.

As far as the parting out old guitars, I have mixed feelings. I would hope nobody is deliberately breaking up guitars in very good or pristine condition, but when a guitar is just run down and worn out and nobody wants it or wants to play it, why not? The only place most of these parts can go is into another Stringmaster that needs them. There aren't enough parts to go around for ALL of them to be whole.

Control plates are fairly clean. Diamonds too. Probably use new screws throughout. I do love the chrome pickup covers.

The legs are brand new high quality repro's already, since it didn't come with any.

The body is in good shape overall. There are a few nicks and dings but not too many big gouges that will need much filler and sanding.

The original case is structurally sound, functioning latches and handle, but hard worn interior and exterior, looks bad.

Supposedly this is a 1954. My Console Grande is also a 54 (and sounds wonderful). Once I get this disassembled I can check the pickups. They may need a rewind, or maybe just set aside and install some Lollars? Or it may just be the old pots/cap and wiring are shot, too many unknowns yet. I get sound from each neck, but doesn't mean all pickups are working. Blend knob has an effect but just not getting good tone. Like I said, I haven't put decent strings on or dialed in an amp for it.

Here are the old logos




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Johnie King


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 1:56 pm    
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If it were mine I'd leave it vintage u know some guys pay to have new guitars look like your steel
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 2:16 pm    
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I get that to a point. The picture doesn't show everything. I'd be more inclined if it were just honest wear, but the craptastic job someone did trying to touch it up ruins it for me. And the un-sanded glob of wood filler under the 4th neck is just kind of pitiful. So its already non-original but maybe looks cool from some angles. Electronics have to be addressed regardless.
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 3:49 pm     Refinishing, Original or your choice?
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Hi Brad,
Refinishing, Original or your choice?
I liked the original, but have seen some real nice custom jobs too.
It's your steel and if your planning to keep it you should do it any way and colors that please you.
Think I saw one that was black with flames like an older hot rod. Why not if that what you'd like.
Maybe that E-Bay guy has a replacement Fender plate for that one with some paint missing?I was under the impression those Kluson Pans fit all of them, but I'm no expert on vintage instruments.
Best wishes,
Andy Very Happy
_________________
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Larry Lenhart


From:
Ponca City, Oklahoma
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 4:14 pm    
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Brad,
That looks like a really fun project ! My first steel back in 1968 was a quad...never thought much about it then, but that was a heck of a first steel...wish I still had it.
I wish I had the skill and knowledge that you do to do a restore to one of those...will be anxious to see pics when you are done...have fun with it, as I am sure you will.
_________________
Zum Encore, Remington D8 non pedal, Hallmark Mosrite clone, Gretsch 6120 DSW, Gretsch G5210T-P90 Electromatic Jet Two 90,1976 Ibanez L5, Eastman archtop, Taylor Dreadnaught, Telonics pedal, Squire Tele, Squire Strat, Fender Tonemaster, Gold Tone 5 string banjo, Little Wonder tenor banjo, 3 Roland cubes 30s and 80, Carvin combo bass amp
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Jeff Mead


From:
London, England
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 4:48 pm     Re: Refinishing, Original or your choice?
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Andy De Paule wrote:

Maybe that E-Bay guy has a replacement Fender plate for that one with some paint missing?I was under the impression those Kluson Pans fit all of them, but I'm no expert on vintage


No, the Ebay guy has stated more than once that it isn't worth the trouble for him to remove the plates and sell them separately as it can damage the guitar it is removed from.

The re-issue Kluson pans won't fit the long scale Stringmasters without removing some wood. Also, the tuners from the older pans from the long scales won't fit into the re-issue pans.

I'd agree with you about refinishing - the damage is done already. If you are refinishing it anyway, you could consider getting adventurous with it - after all, there are plenty of off white Stringmasters in the world. I finished my restored quad in red. And put my name on the front instead of the Fender logo.

Those bridge covers do come up from time to time (1 was sold a couple of weeks or so) but those screw on ones are much less common than the later clip-on ones so it might take a while to find four of them. And they probably won't be cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/132155596076?rmvSB=true
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 5:18 pm     Getting educated
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Hi Jeff,
Getting educated here!... Thats one of the things I love about the forum, so thanks for the information.

As for that plate on top, the small lettering is too small for us to make in the process we've been using.

Too bad about the Kluson pans not working with the old tuners.
I was told that these old tuners often go bad. The ones on mine are a little loose so can't tune well going down unless I go past and then bring it back up to pitch.

Yes about the finish, if it belongs to you, then you do what you like. I'd guess there were hundreds if not thousands of these made. Maybe it's just a few hundred of the quads??? Still not a one of a kind Stradavirus fiddle.

BTW, I was born in Oldham. Heard it's part of Pakistan now? We lived in Manchester, but left when I was 18 months old. Did get to see Stanley Matthews playing with Manchester United in South Africa when I was about 7 years old.
Best regards,
Andy
_________________
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Larry Lenhart


From:
Ponca City, Oklahoma
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 6:09 pm    
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Jeff, I love the looks of your red quad..very classy and I agree there are plenty of blondes out there Smile
_________________
Zum Encore, Remington D8 non pedal, Hallmark Mosrite clone, Gretsch 6120 DSW, Gretsch G5210T-P90 Electromatic Jet Two 90,1976 Ibanez L5, Eastman archtop, Taylor Dreadnaught, Telonics pedal, Squire Tele, Squire Strat, Fender Tonemaster, Gold Tone 5 string banjo, Little Wonder tenor banjo, 3 Roland cubes 30s and 80, Carvin combo bass amp
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 8:56 pm    
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Thanks Jeff. Actually your red quad has caught my eye a few times. It's my favorite color, so I think its gorgeous. I'm thinking...

Larry thanks, but I don't know that I'm all that skilled. Maybe just naive, lol. The thing about Fenders is they just seem to be painted planks of wood with parts screwed on. I know I can solder a guitar circuit back together. Most of the rest is just a screwdriver. I figure with the parts removed I can strip, fill, sand, repaint and seal a piece of wood, especially with aerosols like Erv pointed me to. If this project was something like my Console Grande there's no way I could handle it, with veneers and binding and Cremona brown sunburst finish, etc, I'd just ruin it. Thankfully that guitar is still in great shape for its age. Hey I wonder if anybody has ever done a solid red Console Grande? With cream binding? Perish the thought, lol.

I'm not sure anything can be done about the logo plate. Unless a loose one just comes up I'm open to suggestions. Otherwise I guess it goes back on as-is. I'll try to make the refinish as clean and neat as I can, but the parts are simply going to show some cosmetic wear. A little Flitz, and whatever is appropriate for the frets, will help though. I'll probably put a new Fender decal on if I can. I tell people all the time I'm the "other" Brad Davis, but known for banjo, not steel, so I don't need my name on it, lol.

I guess if a part has to be missing at least the bridge covers are non-essential, although I like the appearance and would also rest my hand there some. At least I can bide my time for them. I found one correct tuner pan on ebay, so there's a start.
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Gary Thorsen

 

From:
Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jul 2017 8:58 pm     Refurb
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For pickups Kelly Siedel in Lewiston ID. Finish Bob Littleton in Vancouver WA. Can't go wrong with these guys. These guys are great and reasonable.
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2017 12:30 pm    
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They do re-winds?

What's a good source for a Stringmaster capacitor? The spec is .05 µf which I don't see on Stewmac. The existing paper-in-oil cap is a bit smushed on one end.

The penciled tape in the control cavity reads 12/10/54, with a name I can't make out.
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Joe Kaufman

 

From:
Lewiston, Idaho
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2017 1:13 pm    
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Kelly has fixed lots of amps for me over the years. He really is a great person to work with!
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Gary Thorsen

 

From:
Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 14 Jul 2017 2:32 pm     Rewinds
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Kelly Seidel, Seidel Music on Thain in Lewiston Idaho is great at rewinds, amp repair, setup or just about anything else to do with steels and guitars. I highly recommend him. He's also very reasonable.
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Russell Davis

 

From:
Fort Worth Texas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Jul 2017 10:27 am    
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Brad,
PM sent about parts and pieces. I might be able to help you.

Russell
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jul 2017 1:49 pm    
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Not much progress to report, but thought I'd sure a few pics for anyone interested.

I've just barely started doing some disassembly and cleaning:



Inside the first tuner cutout. I'm pretty sure the sticker in the control cavity said "Gloria".



Cleaning around the bridge area. Whole thing is covered in 60 years of dirt, grime and tobacco. Here you get a good view of the rather nicely aged original finish with some grain showing through. There is a minor amount of crazing in the finish also. And then the crappy yellow touch-up around the edges. Couple of mismatched screws have me wondering who has been in here and why. The solder on the control circuit looked original to me, but I need to look under the switch plates.




The first fret board after cleaning all the dust off of it. Those are nicks and marks in the paint left behind. Not pristine, but use-able.



Here is the original case. I think it must have been very cool looking, it has nice contours to be so large. It looks like its been through the war now, but is actually structurally sound and most of the hardware has held up well. I have a crazy notion that I will get the tweed, piping and leather and restore it myself. One end of the bottom half may need some re-enforcement. The interior would have to be re-done also.





I've acquired one early lollipop tuner pan already that is cosmetically pretty good. I've read that these can develop problems due to stress on the welds attaching the tuners to the pan causing eventual failure.





However when I looked at the first tuner pan on my guitar, I found a different design that is maybe better. There seems to be no spot weld for the tuners, and no need for one, replaced with a large bracket for all 4 tuners on a side. Hopefully this design is more durable. So I guess there are actually 2 designs for these tuners on the early long scales, mine being a later one. Unfortunately I only want to use maybe 2 of my 4 pans, and only 1 of them is really cosmetically acceptable. But if the rest have this mechanism then their parts could potentially be refitted to other cosmetically good pans if their welds are failing.





Well that's it for now. I'm in the process of procuring a few parts and will keep disassembling and cleaning in the meantime.
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Bill Sinclair


From:
Waynesboro, PA, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jul 2017 2:52 pm    
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Brad,

Nice project! I also have some long scale stringmaster necks and would be in the market for any of your cosmetically unacceptable parts. I'm doing more of a budget reconstruction than a restoration. Razz

Before stripping the paint for a complete refinish on yours, you might just try removing the globby touch up paint with some thinnner or acetone and see how that looks. Worth a try.
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jul 2017 8:35 pm    
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Thanks Bill. I'll think about your suggestion. Even though the paint is not correct (it's opaque and sloppy), it kind of blends and doesn't look that bad if you're not looking very close. Whether it can be successfully removed and leave the original I'm not certain but maybe worth a try when the time comes.

When its all done I may have a handful of parts, not many. I'll keep you in mind. One pan I'm trying to replace has holes drilled in the bottom for rods, but is otherwise functional. Another has a couple of visible nicks/chips in the metal on the outside edge. One is fine except for some pitting, and the 4th is perfectly fine. The new one I got looks good but has the older tuner mechanism, which needs cleaning and greasing.



Today I ordered some pots, and I found a reproduction of the capacitor on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compatible-with-TELECASTER-1951-1952-VINTAGE-REP-CAPACITOR-SET-/291145312642

Looks like a Luxe Radio repro. Not sure that it is, but its a lot cheaper. I've also sourced some correct tweed for the case.
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J Fletcher

 

From:
London,Ont,Canada
Post  Posted 18 Jul 2017 6:13 am    
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Hey that's a nice looking steel as is. I would get it in good playing and electronic condition , and then think about whether or not to refinish.
You might learn to love it and it's battle scars , as is. Jerry
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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jul 2017 6:37 pm    
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Thanks Jerry. I get the feeling some of youse guys don't want me to repaint Old Yaller Smile

Well for now my priorities are, disassemble and clean, procure better/missing parts, repair electronics, finally string it and play it some(!), probably restore the case so it can actually go somewhere, and then we'll see about the refinish. I'm not insensitive to my role in conserving history (what's left of it), and while it has a lot of miles its not like the guitar is trashed.

Even on the electrics I'm going to take conservative steps. The volume pot in particular feels half shot to me, and there was crackle in the blend pot, but I'm going to give them a chance. First thing I'm going to try is simply swapping the cap with a repro and treating the pots with contact cleaner and conditioner. The switches work fine and I'll give the pickups a go again and see how that works before deciding next steps. Hopefully that will breathe some life into the tone, fingers crossed.

There is some flex in the body, which is not surprising given its bulk and age. I think it needs tightening up. Assuming there was a tool or something, how does one best tighten or loosen these?

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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jul 2017 7:03 pm    
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Here's the drilled out 4th tuner pan:




And here is someone's idea of a repair. It's lumpy and needs sanding down. Seriously, why didn't they just leave the holes? Only other damage from the pedal experiment are two very small screw holes on the bottom of the 4th neck.


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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jul 2017 7:32 am    
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You can smooth out those lumps, sand them down and they'll be fine. I refinished a T-8 Stringmaster that I bought new, sold it, and had a chance to buy it back years later. I think the fellow I sold it to must have played it with a claw hammer as there were some serious gouges in the wood. I got busy with some plastic wood and this is how it turned out:

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Brad Davis


From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jul 2017 7:03 pm    
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That's another gorgeous beauty Erv, fine job. Minor wood body repair should be doable for sure.

I just don't know about some people and the way they handle things. I take care of my stuff and I RARELY leave a mark on an instrument. I know they're meant to play, and a scuff here, some patina there, its natural. But some people are complete clods. Just takes all kinds. At bluegrass jams some people will freely pass their instruments around, but I'll rarely let mine go unless I trust you a lot. It's not worth it to me to have fond memories of your belt buckle perpetually etched into my property, lol.
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