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Topic: My Lacquer Emmons Resto Phase 3 |
Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 10:49 am |
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Here I am at the assembly phase of ole Woody. Here are a few shots of the beginning steps. Next I will put the tuning screws in the changer and tune it out by hand and also set the tension on the lower return springs.
Dig the chrome fret boards! I think they are perfect for the lacquer guitar, looks like class to me.
Anyway, I hope I am not boring you guys with to many pictures...
Cheers,
GO PREDS!!!!
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 11:42 am
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"Like"
(No like button on here)
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Johnie King
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 1:29 pm
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| Good golly miss Mollys thats one pretty Emmons |
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Jeff Garden
From:
Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, USA
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 1:45 pm
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OK, I'll mention it just one more time, Mike  ...I LOVE that color combination. That is going to be absolutely beautiful when you get done. Two big thumbs up! |
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Mike Terry
From:
Galesburg Il
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 2:41 pm
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| Woooo... that is really a beautiful Emmons ! |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 3:24 pm
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Dammmm Mike that is a sweet lookin Emmy. And at least in my case, I really don't quite understand the term "too many pictures"eesp when talking about a psg restore or new build or repair o....well you get my drift. Superb work as always Mike...Stormy  |
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Billy Knowles
From:
Kenansville, N. C. 28349 usa
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Posted 4 Jun 2017 6:49 pm Emmons
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That is going to be a masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
_________________
Billy Knowles
STEEL GUITAR EAST
Emmons authorized dealer and approved service technician
my web site: http://www.steelguitareast.com |
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Hook Moore
From:
South Charleston,West Virginia
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 2:34 am Re: Emmons
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| Billy Knowles wrote: |
| That is going to be a masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Pressure is on now LOL
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 7:01 am
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That is absolutely gorgeous Mike and the tone of those bolt-ons are I think the best there is. Great job and believe me, I know how much work goes into a job like that.
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Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 8:46 am .
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I figured I would go ahead and wire her up now while everything is out of my way. I used Reverb cable for the input as that stuff has very good shielding.
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 12:09 pm .
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Cross shafts in place. Knee levers next
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 12:38 pm
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| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
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john widgren
From:
Wilton CT
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 1:54 pm emmons
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Whooo-Hooo! That's sumpthin.
_________________
Steel Guitar Services:
Live performance and recording. Instruments, repairs and lessons. Fresh bait/discount sushi.
(203) 858-8498
widcj@hotmail.com |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 1:54 pm
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| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
Great tip, thanks...
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Paddy Long
From:
Christchurch, New Zealand
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 2:19 pm
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Gee Mike that is looking fabulous, just love the colour of the cabinet too - and that flocking sets it off perfectly
_________________
14'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
08'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
94' Franklin Stereo D10 9+8
Telonics, Peterson, Steelers Choice, Benado, Lexicon, Red Dirt Cases. |
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J R Rose
From:
Keota, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 2:38 pm
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Awesome Job Mike, Beautiful Guitar. Waiting to hear a sound clip, J.R.
_________________
NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 5 Jun 2017 2:39 pm
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| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
Great tip, thanks... |
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.
BTW: your resto work looks amazing. |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 3:42 am
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| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
Great tip, thanks... |
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.
BTW: your resto work looks amazing. |
Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it?
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Spicewood TX 78669
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 6:56 am
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Blue flocking... the piece de resistance! 
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 7:00 am
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| Herb Steiner wrote: |
| Blue flocking... the piece de resistance! |
I wanted it to be special LOL
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 10:06 am
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| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
Great tip, thanks... |
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.
BTW: your resto work looks amazing. |
Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it? |
You're right. I'd never remove the endplate with the strings tuned up to pitch. I always tune the changer by hand (with the strings at pitch) & then loosen the stings to nearly slack before removing the endplate (or some times I remove the EP before stringing the guitar). To me, anything that affords an easier set-up of the undercarrige lowers, is well worth the 5 minutes of extra time it takes to retune the open strings.
After slackening the strings and pulling the end-plate, I insert all the rods and collars through the appropriate bell cranks, then replace the EP, followed by open tuning the strings to pitch. Finally, I position & tighten the collars in the positions needed to fully actuate the pre-tuned changer. I hardly ever have to re-tweak the changer afterwards.
As a matter of fact, whenever I do a full re-stringing, I always remove all 20 strings at once (for cleaning purposes) and the push-pull changer settings always remain spot-on after restringing. I know some people advise against doing it that way, but I've been doing it that way for 40 years with out any problems
Last edited by Tony Glassman on 6 Jun 2017 10:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Mike Scaggs
From:
Nashville, TN
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 10:09 am
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| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2. |
Great tip, thanks... |
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.
BTW: your resto work looks amazing. |
Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it? |
You're right. I'd never remove the endplate with the strings tuned up to pitch. I always tune the changer by hand (with the strings at pitch) & then loosen the stings to nearly slack before removing the endplate (or some times I remove the EP before stringing the guitar). To me, anything that affords an easier set-up of the undercarrige lowers, is well worth the 5 minutes of extra time it takes to retune the open strings.
I place all the rods and collars through the appropriate bell cranks, then replace the EP, followed by open tuning the strings to pitch. Then, I secure the collars in the positions needed to fully actuate the pre-tuned changer. I hardly ever have to re-tweak the changer afterwards.
As a matter of fact, whenever I do a full re-stringing, I always remove all 20 strings at once (for cleaning purposes) and the push-pull changer settings always remain spot-on after restringing. I know some people advise against doing it that way, but I've been doing it that way for 40 years with out any problems |
Thanks Tony,
Yeah, I can see it would help and NO i would never pull an EP off with tension on the guitar! LOL
Thanks again for the good tips. I will take all the knowledge I can get
_________________
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Zum double Hybrid 8x9, 64 Twin (JBLs), p2pAmps Bad-Dawg, p2pAmps Tremendous Reverb, Visit my website www.p2pamps.com |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 10:25 am
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| Mike Scaggs wrote: |
Thanks Tony
Yeah, I can see it would help and NO i would never pull an EP off with tension on the guitar! LOL
Thanks again for the good tips. I will take all the knowledge I can get |
Judging by the work that you've done on the Emmons and Damir's Excel, you already have an incredible amount of knowledge and skill............far more than my own, |
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Andy DePaule
From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
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Posted 6 Jun 2017 11:33 am A knock your eyes out guitar for sure
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A knock your eyes out guitar for sure....
Gonna be a stunner.
_________________
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project. |
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