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Post new topic Tube Amps: On, Off, Idle
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Author Topic:  Tube Amps: On, Off, Idle
Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 27 May 2017 2:48 pm    
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Here is how I care for my tube amps. I've come to do this over many years. I can't remember exactly why. I'd like to know if this is right.

I just bought a new pair of 6L6GCs. They weren't cheap. I want to treat them right, and maximize their service life. We have electrical engineers, amp builders, and amp techs here on the Forum. What say you?

To avoid confusion, I'll refer to the standby switch as "B+," since that's what it controls; positions are ON and Standby.

Turn the amp ON:
Set Power switch OFF, B+ switch to Standby. Connect power cord to A/C outlet, turn the Power switch ON. Wait a few minutes, then turn B+ ON.

Turn the amp OFF:
Leave B+ ON, flip Power to OFF. Let filaments cool down and rest before moving the amp.

IDLE: (a.k.a. what to do during breaks)
This is where dogma persists. I assert that the STANDBY switch is NOT for standing-by. Tell me if I'm wrong.
I've heard:
(a) leave the amp ON
(b) turn the amp OFF
(c) leave filaments on, but set B+ to Standby
(d) it doesn't matter
My practice during breaks is to leave the amp ON (A/C Power and B+). Reduce Volume, unplug signal cable, or do something else to prevent noise/feedback. DON'T leave the amp on with B+ in Standby. The purpose of the Standby switch is for best power-up sequence, nothing else.

Thanks/Dan
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Lee Warren


From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 27 May 2017 4:14 pm    
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If using a tube rectifier, I feel a standby switch is unnecessary.
They are needed, however, with SS rectified tube amps (SS rectifiers allow a faster onrush of current).
Between sets, I just turn the volume down.
Just my 2c.
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Edward Rhea

 

From:
Medford Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 27 May 2017 5:16 pm    
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Hey Dan, this from my Fender Authorized Repairman Mike Metz:
When you first turn on your amp, switch the power switch to “on” with the standby switch set “off”, or in the standby mode. Wait a few moments for the tubes to warm up, usually 30 to 45 seconds is fine. Then turn on the standby switch, and you are ready to play. Following this method can greatly increase the life of the tubes. When you take a break, turn off the standby, leave the power on, and just turn the standby back on when you are ready to play. If you need to leave your amp for more than say…30 minutes, it would be best to shut the amp completely off.

When you shut the amp off, you can simply turn off both power and standby switches at the same time.
http://thesisaudio.com/m.page22.html
Enjoy your gear!
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 27 May 2017 6:09 pm    
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Eddie, I knew this would be interesting, ha!

I start my amp in the manner you describe. But I shut it down with just the POWER switch. That might not be necessary, but is probably not harmful.

Does that drain the power supply filter caps? Maybe. Does that matter on a daily basis? Nope.

Dr. Z says that engaging Standby during breaks is OK.

I found that here:
http://drzamps.com/blog-standby-switch/
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Edward Rhea

 

From:
Medford Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 5:02 am    
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I can't help but wonder, if hitting both switches "off", when powering down, does nothing more than set you up for "stand-by", when you go to power on the amp(so you're not throwing that sudden current to cold tubes)? Maybe one of these tube amp builders/repair guys can shed a better explanation for the both of us, on that recommendation? I could email Mike and ask, but we're liable to get a response quicker on the forum here...anyway, if that is the case, I'd say we are both golden!
I had a HRD prior to owning my Twin Reverb. I loved it for six string, but after hearing James's TR, I knew I wanted that sound & power! I'm glad you're getting along with your amp...twenty years on modern tubes ain't nothing to sneeze at!
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Michael Butler


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 10:05 am    
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for those who really want to get into the standby yes or no, here is a pdf of, "getting the most out of your vacuum tubes." rather long, and, i'm sure it will leave the subject open to further debate, but, may help in other vacuum tube subjects too.

http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/MostVacuumTubes.pdf

play music!
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 11:04 am    
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Edward Rhea wrote:
I can't help but wonder, if hitting both switches "off", when powering down, does nothing more than set you up for "stand-by", when you go to power on the amp(so you're not throwing that sudden current to cold tubes)?


You nailed it, Eddie. Peavey solved that problem by adding a current-inrush limiter. Makes the switch unnecessary, but tube amp users kind of expect to see the switch anyway. Pretty good read here:
https://peavey.com/support/technotes/hartley/Chapter_6.pdf

I owned a Twin with EV-SRO speakers that was stolen in burglary in 1977. I should have checked emergency rooms for someone with a back injury Oh Well
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 11:09 am    
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Michael Butler wrote:
for those who really want to get into the standby yes or no, here is a pdf of, "getting the most out of your vacuum tubes." rather long, and, i'm sure it will leave the subject open to further debate, but, may help in other vacuum tube subjects too.

http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/MostVacuumTubes.pdf

play music!


Thanks, Michael. That's a good one... gonna read that end-to-end. I love some of those tubes shown in the pictures on page 3!
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 4:50 pm    
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I have a very hot-rodded Princeton Reverb. My tech put in a rectifier tube that warms up slowly, not like the BAM instant full voltage of a SS rectifier or even a GZ34. The PR has no standby switch, and he felt that this "slow" rectifier tube would be easier on the other tubes.
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"74 Bud S-10 3&6
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'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 6:37 pm    
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Turning on with the standby "off" can be important with a tube or solid state rectifier. If you keep your amp well maintained, having it regularly serviced and replacing the filter capacitors every 12 years or so - don't worry about it.

But if you use a tube amp more than 8 or 10 years old and 1) don't know the condition of the electronics or 2) just don't bother to have tube amps serviced *not* using the standby switch can certainly help you blow something up.

Then again, if you don't know the condition of the electronics a tube amp around that age it shouldn't be played anyway - unless you like rolling dice. Most of the ones I repair fail from lack of maintenance, and often related to power up.

During breaks it doesn't matter that much (again, with a maintained amp) - although I've seen many bumped with nastily loud results. The electronics community has debated the "break" question to no end with no consensus.

When shutting down just turn everything off, period. Turning them off separately serves absolutely no purpose.
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1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
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Last edited by Jim Sliff on 28 May 2017 6:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 6:42 pm    
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John Billings wrote:
I have a very hot-rodded Princeton Reverb. My tech put in a rectifier tube that warms up slowly, not like the BAM instant full voltage of a SS rectifier or even a GZ34. The PR has no standby switch, and he felt that this "slow" rectifier tube would be easier on the other tubes.


Yes, that works very well. I used to have a ham radio transmitter that used a mercury vapor rectifier tube, I think it was a 5U4. The glow from that thing was purty.
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 6:44 pm    
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Dan,
I think Bill put in a 5U4. I'll have to look.
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2017 7:27 pm    
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Quote:
a mercury vapor rectifier tube, I think it was a 5U4"


The mercury vapor tube was not a 5U4 - it was most likely an 83. A terrible tube in audio amps (create all kinds of noises), and generally not one you want in exposed mountins - break one and you get mercury vapor. Not something you want to breathe.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Mark McCay-Moran


From:
Lake Tahoe
Post  Posted 29 May 2017 1:57 pm    
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For most tube amps: usually follow the "on in standby mode" protocol for firing up... in standby for breaks.

I have one oddball amp-- Silvertone 1484-- that has early SS rectification but the standby switch doesn't cut power to the B+ rail.
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Michael Butler


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2017 2:36 pm    
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Jim Sliff wrote:
Quote:
a mercury vapor rectifier tube, I think it was a 5U4"


The mercury vapor tube was not a 5U4 - it was most likely an 83. A terrible tube in audio amps (create all kinds of noises), and generally not one you want in exposed mountins - break one and you get mercury vapor. Not something you want to breathe.


yes, most likely an 83. i have one in my tv7 tube tester. even tho the unit was made for the military and lays sideways, it is expected that you turn the unit so the tube is vertical and the mercury vapor flows properly. i keep thinking that i'll change it to SS but the unit still works.

play music!
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please see my Snakeskin's Virtual Music Museum below.

http://muscmp.wordpress.com/
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