Need Assistance on Veneer Application

Larry Carlson · From: My Computer

Hello,

I picked up another Marrs Cat can a couple of weeks ago except this one is really in bad shape.
I have finally have all the aluminum smoothed out and polished including the keyhead
etc. and the Bill Lawrence pickup actually works quite well.

I am going to recover the top but I am not going to use the formica that was used originally.
I don't want my guitar looking like the top of a 50's kitchen table.
My one problem is I have never used veneer before.
I am now the proud owner of a roll of red oak veneer that I will use to
resurface the top of the guitar. I will stain and finish it before final assembly.

The veneer has no backing.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to what type of glue to use?
There are so many types of glue out there to pick from and I was hoping
someone has done this before and knows what the heck they are doing.
Because at the moment I don't..........

I have read that some use contact cement but for a few reasons I am not a fan of contact cement.
If I was left to my own devices I would spread a very thin coating of Titebond on the
body and then lay the veneer on that and apply pressure with weight for about 24 hours.
But that sounds too easy and is probably wrong anyway.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Everyone have a good day.
_________________
I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I have absolutely no experience with veneer, but I was looking at some things just this week. I found a few things online from Rockler and from this website here with some suggestions for adhesive types for different situations. Look at the sidebar for the veneer glue guide.
clickhere

David Ball · From: North Carolina High Country

There are pre-glued veneers available that you can apply with a hot iron too. I think Joe Woodworker sells these veneers.

Dave

Larry Carlson · From: My Computer

Thanks for the replies folks.
The website dealing with veneer application helped a lot.

The veneer I have has no backing and is not pre-glued however that site stated there
is a glue that can be applied and then I can use an iron to affix the veneer to the guitar.
That sounds like it may be a good way to go.
Maybe I'll take a small scrap or two and see how well it works before I start on the guitar.
_________________
I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying.

George Piburn · From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico

No Need to over think this project.

Your original Idea of Tightbond , or 1 hour Epoxy is just fine.

Epoxy takes clear coats better if there is any residual or push through the surface grain-- blends right in no worry.

tight bond will look blotchy if covered with clear even if you wipe it with water cloth to remove.

With Epoxy , (Prefered) you can wipe excess with a cloth dampened with Denatured alcohol to remove.

Blue Nirile gloves is good , and ventilation too.

Wet both the surface and the veneer then go for it.

Wax paper between the new face and plank helps to prevent oh by the way's.

Apply even pressure , with a plank or ply and several clamps.
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel

Larry Carlson · From: My Computer

Thank you George,

The one hour epoxy sounds like it might be the safest/easiest route for me.
I never thought of trying it but I have used it just about everywhere else.

I have to unroll and let the veneer relax for a few days anyway. It wouldn't lay flat for anything at the moment.

If you come back to this thread I have one question.
What is the reason I would wet the veneer and the surface of the guitar?
My knowledge of woodworking is limited to framing a room and minor refinishing projects........... Wink

_________________
I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying.

George Piburn · From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico

You can speed up the roll out with a household iron. Not too hot though.

Wet both because you have deep grain on the Veneer and not sure about the surface.

You can always wipe drip out or bleed through.

It is a drag to get dead spots under that stuff, and have it bubble up over time.

My Experience is limited to only a few hundred glue ups.

These Twins are 1/8 thickness KOA Halves Booked with separate Head piece Epoxied on Mahogany, with an edge band to hide the seam and dress up.

All of the Upper End Makers use various thickness Veneers a few examples are,
GeorgeBoards - Asher - Clinesmith - RAM - CruzTone - Gibson , PRS.

_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel

Larry Carlson · From: My Computer

Thank you sir.....I appreciate the response.
_________________
I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying.

Gary Meixner · From: New York, USA

Larry,

Epoxy is good choice, WEST 105/205 or System Three General Purpose (or SilverTip Lam Resin). If you are planning on staining the veneer after it is applied you will want to avoid bleed through.

One trick is to apply a very thin coat to the back side of the veneer, use a credit card to squeegee off the excess. Then put some plastic over it and a flat board with very little weight and let the epoxy cure.

Apply the veneer using the same epoxy to a fix it to the guitar. By sizing the back of the veneer with the thin coat first you avoid squeezing epoxy through the gain when it is under pressure while applying the veneer.

Good luck,

Gary Meixner

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