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Author Topic:  New member questions concerning Emmons ?S-10?
Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 11:03 am    
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Hello,

May name is Sam, and I've been playing and collecting guitars for more than 50 years. This, I'm excited to say, is my first pedal steel.

This preliminary picture is me just getting it out of the box to see how it looks. It's in good shape, and the pedals and knee pedals seem to work.

I have a lot of questions, but I'll start with three. The Tone pot is gone from the instrument, as well as the bypass switch. Does anyone have a recommendation as to where I can get parts, and a wiring diagram for those pieces? BTW, I'm pretty handy, but, if you think I should leave that to the pros, I will.

Second, I am assuming that this is an S-10, meaning single 10 string. Am I right? There is no serial number on the end of the guitar, and somewhere I read that that fact dates the guitar, but I didn't catch the probable mfg date. Can someone point me to a table/description of how to find the serial number for this guitar.

Thanks, an I look forward to bothering you guys with a lot of questions. Very Happy
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Edward Rhea

 

From:
Medford Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 12:09 pm    
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Congrats & welcome, Sam...looks like a real nice guitar!
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 12:12 pm     Thanks.
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Thanks Ed. I think it was a steal - pardon the pun - $400 - and I think it's worth getting it up to par.
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 12:50 pm    
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Yikes, you absolutely stole that thing.. when cleaned up and working right , its worth 6 or 7 times what you paid to many players, and if you wanted to sell it and give someone a GREAT deal, you would still quadruple your money.. Someone, somewhere, obviously had NO idea what they were selling... bob
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Bill C. Buntin

 

Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 1:24 pm    
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Sam, the serial number should be visible. Stamped into the casting of the end plate. Turn the guitar over and look at the end plates. Should be able to find it.

Showing us all pictures of the underside, all the mechanics, we will be able to assist you and answer most everything.

Tone pot and switch, try Jim Palenscar at Steel Guitars of North County. He's in Oceanside CA. His website is http://www.steelguitars.me/#2750

I concur with Bob, you got a fantastic steel for a steal.
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john widgren


From:
Wilton CT
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 1:47 pm     Emmons
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Looks like a nice guitar,possibly a vintage collectable, and looking like it may (probably, surely will) need some work. What to do and what not to do are important considerations as I'm sure you understand as a collector. a I'd humbly suggest that you take it to a restoration specialist. Please feel free to contact me if you are interested in referrals.

Best JW
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 3:48 pm     Emmons S 10 Q and A
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Thanks, you guys. I'll post more extensive pics tmrw. Glad to hear about the price. Kinda thought I got a good deal. 😊I'll look harder for the serial # tmrw. Thanks so much.

Sam
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 4:04 pm    
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As has been said, you got a great deal. I'd like to see pictures of the back side of the cabinet. I wonder if this is a Fatback. How many knee levers? Where are you in California? It's a big state.

Don't worry about the tone pot and bypass switch being missing. That's the last thing to deal with, if ever. If the pickup is wired directly into the output jack you are good to go. I have all that circuitry on my D10 and I never use it. Some guys do use it, but you really don't need to focus on that right now.
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 12 Jan 2017 5:41 pm    
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Paul Sutherland wrote:
Don't worry about the tone pot and bypass switch being missing. That's the last thing to deal with, if ever. If the pickup is wired directly into the output jack you are good to go.

Agreed. Lotsa guys with single a neck Emmons (me included) just bypass the whole enchilada and run directly to the jack.
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:29 am     More pics - and more thanks
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Hey Paul,

I'm in Alameda. I see you're up in God's country. Thanks for the advice on the pot and switch - the wiring for them was surgically removed, so I'm thinking a previous owner thought they were useless, or a bother.

It's got three levers, and it seems like it's all there. I think the middle lever isn't adjusted right, as it doesn't move very far.

I cannot see a serial num anywhere on this instrument - I'm posting pics right below this.

You guys are great.

Thanks,

Sam
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:34 am     Bridge End
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Bridge End
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:35 am     neck end
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:36 am     Jack end
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:37 am    
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 9:59 am    
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Man, you gotta find yourself a tool and cut off those string ends!

There should be a number stamped on the inside of the end plate casting on the changer end. Beautiful instrument. Find someone nearby who knows push-pulls and have them check it out. Beware of the sheriff coming to your door, because you literally stole that thing. (I'm jealous.) Congratulations.
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 10:22 am     Strings and things
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Yeah Jim, - I'm going over to my local music shop today and buying some new strings - gonna plug her in for the first time - I'll report back. Not that I expect to get any thing useful outta her - just wanna see if she works.

I'm definitely taking her to a shop - anybody got recommendations for someone somewhere within 25 miles of the Bay Area?

BTW Serial # is apparently 1180

Thanks
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 11:19 am    
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Tom Bradshaw in Concord might work on push-pulls. He works on most everything else. There is nothing inherently wrong with a knee lever that has a shorter throw or travel than the other levers. Depending on the changes on the guitar that could be exactly the way it's supposed to be. Or it could be screwed up. Someone experienced needs to look at this guitar.
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 11:21 am     Back side of Cabinet
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Paul Sutherland,

I'm assuming this is what you meant by the "back side of the cabinet." If not, I'll post another pic. What designates a fatback?

Sam


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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 11:23 am     re: Tom Bradshaw
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Thanks, Paul. I'll call him today.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 11:29 am    
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That is the view and yes that is a fatback. The rear panel on most Emmons has been cut a bit to allow for more leg room. On your steel the rear panel is straight across, so it's a fatback. Some people say the fatbacks sound a bit different and have less cabinet drop (that's a whole new subject.)

That plexiglass looking bar holder is right in the way of a person's left arm as they play. That thing has to go. How is it attached? Hopefully it's not by screws or bolts into the body. Maybe it's just held on by sticky tape.
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Last edited by Paul Sutherland on 13 Jan 2017 12:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Doug Beaumier


From:
Northampton, MA
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 11:41 am    
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Fatbacks were made from approx. 1970 to 1973. The serial number on your S-10 should have an "S" suffix. Serial number 1180 S would be 1971, according to my list of S-10 numbers I've compiled over the years. I have a 1975 that looks just like yours, except it's not a fatback.
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 12:16 pm    
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Sam: I just remembered another guy that could be an option for working on your steel. Try Kerry Johnson. He has a website under the name Cosmic Steel. He's somewhere in the bay area.
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 12:23 pm     Kerry Johnson
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Thanks, Paul. I'll check him out, too.
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 12:26 pm     Plexi bar holder
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Hey Paul,

It's not attached Smile
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Sam Hammond


From:
Alameda, California
Post  Posted 13 Jan 2017 1:08 pm     Fatback and serial #
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Hey Doug -

The serial number _is_ 1180S, with the "S" stamped pretty far apart from the other numbers. Thanks for the info.

Sam
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