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Topic: Lifting my guitar about 1"... advice welcome! |
Henry Nagle
From:
Santa Rosa, California
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Posted 24 Apr 2017 5:16 pm |
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Hello!
I'm trying to lift my early 80s Sho~Bud I got recently. I picked up some 10/32 nut couplers and some nut and some threaded rod. That part is all figured out. But it's becoming clear to me that I need to modify the legs too. I remember years ago using dowels inside the legs to keep them from collapsing, and pieces of PVC pipe as bushings above the pedal rack, to keep the rack from lifting... There has got to be a better way.... Do I just need to order new legs?
Thanks in advance for your kind and wise advice! |
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Henry Nagle
From:
Santa Rosa, California
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Posted 24 Apr 2017 5:27 pm
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| Searching through the archives it seems that dowel and bushings cut from pipe are the norm... |
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Fred Treece
From:
California, USA
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J R Rose
From:
Keota, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2017 7:12 pm
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Jerry Roller has a lift kit that's shiny and works well. Rod extenders and all. He is a forum member. J.R.
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NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2017 7:51 pm
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I had to put the dowel rod setup on an MSA I was having problems with.
I have helped a friend work on some too. Some thing I learned was.
If the guitar has holes drilled through the lower leg sections to attach the pedal bar to the leg with a bolt and wing nut. Putting a dowel rod down through the leg and drilling a hole through the dowel to allow the bolt to pass through for attachment of the pedal bar. Works well.
If the guitar uses clamps to attach the pedal bar you will need to use metal or plastic tubing as spacers so the front legs will not collapse when the pedals are stepped on. You will still need to put dowel rods in the rear legs so they will not collapse also. You can still extend either rear leg to level the guitar on an unever floor.
Good Luck in this project and back to playing. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 26 Apr 2017 2:54 am
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Bobby, why would you need to drill the dowel?
Typically, you choose a dowel that goes inside the outer tube, but too wide to fit in the inner tube, so that the inner tube bottoms out on the dowel.
If your guitar attaches to the leg with the bolt, no spacer pipe is needed, as the bolt will hold the pedal bar in place.
However, if your guitar attaches the bar to the leg with the clamp, you'll require a pipe with an ID just large enough to pass the inner tube, and cut to length to hold the pedal bar near the floor.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 26 Apr 2017 9:24 am
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| Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
I had to put the dowel rod setup on an MSA I was having problems with.
I have helped a friend work on some too. Some thing I learned was.
If the guitar has holes drilled through the lower leg sections to attach the pedal bar to the leg with a bolt and wing nut. Putting a dowel rod down through the leg and drilling a hole through the dowel to allow the bolt to pass through for attachment of the pedal bar. Works well.
If the guitar uses clamps to attach the pedal bar you will need to use metal or plastic tubing as spacers so the front legs will not collapse when the pedals are stepped on. You will still need to put dowel rods in the rear legs so they will not collapse also. You can still extend either rear leg to level the guitar on an unever floor.
Good Luck in this project and back to playing. |
Why would you need to put dowels in the rear legs? There is noreal downward pressure on them. I have never needed them on my guitar.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2017 6:58 pm Lifting my guitar about one inch---Advice welcome
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Lane, I took the rubber boot off the bottom of the leg and ran a dowel that fit inside the inter part of the leg till it hit the thread insert. cut it ever with the bottom of the leg and put the boot back on. Then I had to run a drill through the hole in the legs so the pedal bar bolts and wing nuts would hold the bar.
Richard That MSA and Case was just to dang heavy for a couple 2nd floor gigs we done. The case weighed about 35 lb. I hauled the steel in a PT Cruiser sitting up behind the rear seat, With amp and seat under it. I carried it setting the body on my right shoulder right hand holding pedal bar. Left hand holding left rear leg.
If the rear leg adjusters are in good working order may not need them in the back legs. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 26 Apr 2017 8:10 pm Re: Lifting my guitar about one inch---Advice welcome
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| Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
Lane, I took the rubber boot off the bottom of the leg and ran a dowel that fit inside the inter part of the leg till it hit the thread insert. cut it ever with the bottom of the leg and put the boot back on. Then I had to run a drill through the hole in the legs so the pedal bar bolts and wing nuts would hold the bar.
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If that works, fine. But it's the hard way.
Remove the clutch and inner leg; insert piece of dowel too big for the inner leg, but small enough to fit inside the outer leg. Start with about six inches long; reinsert inner leg and measure how much too long it is, and cut off the excess. Now put the clutch and inner leg back on
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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