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Author Topic:  Threading Pull Rods Question
Danny Letz

 

From:
Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 11:47 am    
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How, with common shop tools, do you hold pull rods while threading them without damaging them. A common vice will skin them up. I have used wood blocks in a vice, but they don't hold very well. I have a feeling someone has a method that is so simple I'm gonna feel dumb!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 12:21 pm    
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First let me say I'm not a machinist, just a truck driving steel player with a decent grasp of logic and of the obvious.
I'd cut the threads before I cut to length, gripping it by any means available, but just beyond the intended cutoff point, so you're just damaging what will soon be waste.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 12:25 pm    
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I have a couple machinist vices, drill press vices, whatever they're called with smooth jaws. I just tighten them up and give the handle a couple good hammer taps.

Grind or sand a taper on the end of the rod, use cutting oil and be patient backing off the die to relieve chips as necessary.

Sometimes, a rod will spin but it's no big deal to me. If a burr is left, I just sand and polish it out.
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Dick Wood


From:
Springtown Texas, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 12:27 pm    
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If it already has the bend on the end,put the bend in the vise.That way it can't turn as you thread it. Thread slowly backing off each turn to release any chips that might try to get stuck in the threads as you cut them. Be sure to use some lubricant on the die to aid in cutting.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 12:30 pm    
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Let me clarify about grinding a taper on the end of the rod. Just like a bullet end on the very end, like a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch just so the die is easier to start.
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Fred Justice


From:
Mesa, Arizona
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 12:58 pm    
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Danny, I have the jaw's of my 4" vice lined with Ozite, the same stuff I cover the cases with.
The rods never slip or turn, and there's no damage to the rod.
I leave about a inch and a half sticking out to work with.
Good luck Pal, and get ole Jenkins down there and make him work, good luck with that too. Very Happy
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 1:11 pm    
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Get a piece of wood, say 3/4" square. Make the length the maximum you can get your drill through. Drill a hole through the length of the wood, roughly in the middle. Make it the same diameter as the rod.
Now with a hacksaw or junior hacksaw cut along the length on one side till you break into the hole.
You've now got a split bush which you can put in a vice and tighten hard with the rod in it.
The size of the wood isn't important as long as it works.

If this doesn't work find your Mother In Law and get her to hold the rod in her mouth. At least you'll get a bit of peace and quiet.
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 1:28 pm    
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I usually grab a couple blocks of wood and put them in a vice with the rod in between and tighten up the vice.
Not exactly rocket science. Whoa!
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 2:16 pm    
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Copper jaws. I made these from scrap pipe, slit, flattened, cut and hammered onto the jaws. What I was taught at school 50 years ago. (These are not 50 years old, only about 20 Smile)




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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 4:22 pm    
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I use regular old vice grips with a rag. Works great for me.
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Greg Lambert

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 4:24 pm    
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Try wrapping it in a piece of an old inner tube then hold it with vice grips. the rubber shouldnt let it slip.
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Danny Letz

 

From:
Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 4:47 pm    
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Thanks guys. Looks like I was pretty close with the wood blocks in the vice. I've been getting by with it, but figured you guys had better ways. Fred, I created another addict by sending Ray Jenkins some chilli pequin hot sauce. Now I'm either gonna have to send him seeds to raise his own or send him to hot sauce annomous..
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Danny Letz

 

From:
Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 4:58 pm    
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By the way Fred, Ray's in your part of the country, you take care of him.
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Ray Jenkins


From:
Gold Canyon Az. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 5:17 pm    
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Why is everybody always pickin on me.
Danny,Terry the machinist,suggest you try the rubber back side of a peice of carpet!!
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Clyde Mattocks

 

From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 5:47 pm    
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I have used scraps of leather.
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 8:19 pm    
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I use a three jaw drill press chuck with a thru hole.... chucked in a vise.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2016 8:23 pm    
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Jerry Jones wrote:
I use a three jaw drill press chuck with a thru hole.... chucked in a vise.


Brilliant! Thanks for that tip.
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Jeff Spencer

 

From:
Queensland, Australia
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2016 12:39 am    
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I have a set of these. Have not done exactly what you are attempting but they work for similar operations. You can apply a lot of pressure without marking stock.

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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2016 1:11 am    
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Now those are class! Will look out for some.
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2016 7:56 am    
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I use 1 1/2" aluminum angle stock cut to approximate length of the vise jaws to hold most parts.
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Rex Mayfield

 

From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2016 2:11 pm    
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Fold a piece of emery cloth in half the length of vise jaws, pinch the emery with the rod inside, clamp firmly in the vise, thread it. No slip, no marks. Please let me know if anyone has an issue with this.
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Derrick Unger


From:
Newark Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2016 3:08 pm     rod threading
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Well..here is my 2 cents..I followed Tonys suggestion..cut a piece of pine 3/4 by 3/4 by two and 1/2 inches long..drilled a 1/8 inch hole down through the middle length wise..I use 1/8 inch aluminum rod threaded 5-40 for a MSA..rod comes from local weld shop..was $4.00 for 8 pieces..sorry...back to project..saw through length wise till you hit hole in middle..I used a coping saw, but had to widen the cut with a hacksaw to get I little wider kerf so it clamped down tighter..works fantastic..holds great and no way to scar rod!!!!! Oh did 8 rods with it!!
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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2016 11:17 am    
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It only takes a small amount.




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Ronnie Boettcher


From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2016 12:08 pm    
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The main thing is to only turn the die about 1/8th, to 1/4th of a revolution, then back it off about the same, and go slow. USE CUTTING OIL, or regular oil frequently. You have to keep the die threads lubed. Same procedure when cutting threads on regular pipe, or bigger rods. Tighten vise!
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Derrick Unger


From:
Newark Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2016 2:11 pm     rod end
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Jerry Overstreet  

Let me clarify about grinding a taper on the end of the rod. Just like a bullet end on the very end, like a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch just so the die is easier to start.

Jerry is very correct..DO NOT forget to do that when threading the rod..will save you a lot of work and frustration and for me a big ole blister on my thumb.
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