| Author |
Topic: My pedal bar keeps creeping up... |
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 9 Oct 2016 8:17 am |
|
| Dan Robinson wrote: |
If you don't mind this look, wood dowel inside the front legs works fine, will not creep down.
|
But his problem is not the clutch riding down, it's the pedal bar riding up
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
Danny Letz
From:
Old Glory,Texas, USA 79540
|
Posted 9 Oct 2016 3:41 pm
|
|
| You need a solid spacer between the pedal bar and the adjusting clutch, be it a nut, an aluminum tube or whatever. My first Zumsteel had an aluminum tube with a set screw. I find that sometimes, due to weird angles or whatever, that you may have to experiment with the length of the spacer. One inch extender don't always equal one inch spacers. You have to get them so that the pedals adjust to the height above the floor that you want. |
|
|
|
Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
|
Posted 9 Oct 2016 7:12 pm
|
|
As previously mentioned, get some appropriate diameter Al tubing/conduit at Ace,Home D, etc.even a Electric jobber mite give u asome cutoffs gratis, cut a coupla pieces into"outside" spacers, the proper lenghth and voila. The Al gives a polishable option if u want too, simple no biggy..Stormy  u mite want to use a coupla plastic hose or nylon washers between the pedal bar and the spacer edge(s)keep from marring anythin up.Oh yeah the inside tubes on the legs are 5/8" OD so you want tubing withan ID of as close to 5/8" as u can.So as mentioned prolly 3/4".This is to help reiterate Lane who has been trying to explain this variation in slipping leg(s) sydrome lol. |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 10 Oct 2016 10:48 am
|
|
I have similar lift setups on my Fenders.
Simple has clamps attached to the legs just above the pedal rack solves the problem completely, and Fender pedals are *really* stiff, creating more "up" pressure on the rack.
Another player did the same thing but added JB weld by spreading it in the clamp slots, touching the leg; he then ends it smooth and painted it with "chrome" aerosol paint. He has the tightening screws in back, so from the front unless you're looking specifically for them you don't notice them at all.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
|
Posted 23 Oct 2016 11:26 pm
|
|
| Lane Gray wrote: |
| Dan Robinson wrote: |
If you don't mind this look, wood dowel inside the front legs works fine, will not creep down.
|
But his problem is not the clutch riding down, it's the pedal bar riding up |
The difference is that Dan's Sho Bud pedal rack is held in place by a bolt that passes through the legs, so it will never ride up.
Most modern pedal racks are only clamped to the legs (for set-up ease) and rely on the leg adjusters to keep them from from climbing. |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 24 Oct 2016 6:34 am
|
|
If it were a good-looking pedal steel, I'd be inclined to shy away from stacks of washers or plastic pipe. (Even a chrome-plated socket would look better.) Go to any motorcycle shop, and ask them for some chrome spacers or chrome nuts of the length you need. (They use a lot of these parts when fabricating custom motorcycles.)
 |
|
|
|
Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
|
Posted 24 Oct 2016 8:19 am
|
|
Order your aluminum spacers or rod extenders at McMaster Carr.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
|
|
|
Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
|
Posted 24 Oct 2016 1:57 pm
|
|
Dave, I trust you received the spacers and problem is solved. I would like to point out that the problem was not collapsing legs but that the pedal bar was climbing up the leg. The spacers stop that, are highy polished so they look nice, and the leg can't collapse. Be sure the spacer is between the clutch and pedal bar. I once sent spacers to a guy and he could not get them to work and I found he was putting them between the pedal bar and rubber leg tip.
Jerry
_________________
http://www.littleoprey.org/ |
|
|
|
Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
|
Posted 25 Oct 2016 6:02 am Re: Legs
|
|
| Doug Palmer wrote: |
| Before Tony Prior chimes in I will say it for him. Duct Tape! LOL. |
Actually not Duct Tape this time , get that chrome tape from the Auto Parts store !
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
|
|
|
Doug Palmer
From:
Greensboro, North Carolina, USA
|
Posted 25 Oct 2016 2:18 pm Tony Prior
|
|
Tony, Tony, Tony! Everybody knows that chrome tape makes your tone too bright and ruins the sustain. I prefer the original gray 'Duck' tape for a vintage tone and sustain.
_________________
Emmons D-10, ST-10,LD-10 III, NV-112,Fender Deluxe Reverb. Authorized wholesale dealer musicorp.com! |
|
|
|
Edward Rhea
From:
Medford Oklahoma, USA
|
Posted 25 Oct 2016 3:41 pm
|
|
I made these spacers out of bicycle handle bars. They were a bit larger than the thin post on the steel leg, so to keep them from rubbing off the legs finish, I glued in some leather. This steel got a two inch lift, the owner who is 6'3", is very happy to have his steel back at a comfortable height now. His lift kit is fully reverseable, if he should decide to sell it later on? About $30 in stainless hardware...I think it turned out nice? |
|
|
|
