| Author |
Topic: Sho-Bud Professional action/setup |
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 11 Aug 2015 7:31 am |
|
Try James Morehead, Jim Palenscar or Tom Bradshaw.
I'd try just cleaning the rods
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 11 Aug 2015 8:52 am
|
|
Some of the rods may be replacements. Those would be the stainless steel rods. The others maybe original aluminum rods. You can polish them quite a bit with OOOO steel wool, then Mothers.
James may be making springs, Check with him.
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
|
|
|
Gibson Hartwell
From:
Missoula, Montana, USA
|
Posted 29 Aug 2015 10:20 pm
|
|
I'm slowly making progress on this thing and feeling optimistic after installing some new stainless steel rods. However, I am struggling a bit witht the relocation of the knee lever. The picture below is the diagram Duane Marrs included with parts to install knee levers. The writing along the perimeter is from the fellow that ordered the parts and talked to Duane, writing on the inside is from Duane. I had some help installing the levers but the LKR lever and bracket were installed spanning the cross shaft for P5. This functioned fine but the large distance between levers was awkward. I thought with a little messing about, I could move it to where Duane diagrammed it in this picture (spanning cross shaft for P4) but the spacing for the rack is very tight. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Gibson Hartwell on 30 Aug 2015 6:27 am; edited 2 times in total |
|
|
|
Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
|
Posted 30 Aug 2015 1:59 am
|
|
regardless of the noise, ( fix that later) setting up the A and / or B pedal action is not going to be the same as a modern all pull guitar. The limitations are obvious. No multiple position bell cranks and changer finger pull points to set the length or tension of the pull. It's the same/ similar with the two hole puller systems. Not enough bell crank for a couple of pulls, especially the A Pedal.
You have to find the balance between the length of the pull and the tension of the pull . Don't forget string gauges have an impact on this as well. Thicker strings pull shorter but much stiffer, lighter strings pull longer but less tension.
The A Pedal is probably the worst case scenario, biggest string along with a middle of the pack string at the same time...
Once the strings are pulled to pitch at that point the pedal stop should also be adjusted to STOP, or maybe just ever so slightly beyond the full pull . Otherwise you will have MUSH and if the pedal stop is ahead of the full pull you will be forever chasing the out of tune pull.
These are great OLD era instruments but if we have been playing MODERN all pull Steels for 20 years, do not expect the Professionals and/ or Two Hole Puller guitars to play like your new modern era Steel. Your driving a 1970's Chevy not a 2015 Chevy.
Set them up so they are in tune and PULL to pitch and understand that your left foot may have a little more work to do !
Think of it this way, even Sho Bud recognized that the changer / bell crank system had to be updated and went to the 5 hole bell crank and 3 up 2 down changer by the mid to late 70's.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
|
|
|
Gibson Hartwell
From:
Missoula, Montana, USA
|
Posted 1 Sep 2015 7:15 am
|
|
Thanks Tony and all for the setup advice. I'm real encouraged by all the advice on setup, balance, and properly setting the stops.
I am still fiddling with the move of the E-lower knee lever (LKR), perhaps my last post/question above was too confusing. I'm trying to move the lever and rack from its current position around P5 to around P4. The problem is that the rack then interferes with adjustment of the C pedal stop locknut. |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 1 Sep 2015 8:28 am
|
|
Leave the rack where it is. What's usually done is to move the lever to the desired spot, and use a connecting rod with ball joints to connect the lever to the rack. Don't know if you can see it in this pic,,,, maybe if you zoom in?
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
|
|
|
Gibson Hartwell
From:
Missoula, Montana, USA
|
Posted 1 Sep 2015 9:48 am
|
|
| Thanks John, that thing looks amazingly clean! I like your solution. Unfortunately for me, the parts I have don't have ball joints or connecting rods. The parts came originally from Duane Marrs and they are designed to fit around one of the cross shafts. |
|
|
|
Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
|
Posted 3 Sep 2015 8:27 pm
|
|
| You can replace one of the lowering pull rods. Leave the new rod full length and it will engage all of the lowering racks. No more loose racks, no tape needed, and it cures a lot of the mechanical noise. |
|
|
|
Gibson Hartwell
From:
Missoula, Montana, USA
|
Posted 5 Sep 2015 5:59 pm
|
|
I hesitated to move the LKL lever inward because it was the original factory position. After advice from John here (and Ricky via email) I moved that lever over. I followed Tony's advice on dialing in the stops and also replaced some of the old scratched up aluminum rods that were moving slugishly through the racks. This thing is feeling pretty sweet now. I just need to mess with the springs a little and this should be all dialed in. Thanks for all the help!
 |
|
|
|
