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Author Topic:  Why do we have shaky steels?
Tony Palmer


From:
St Augustine,FL
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2014 7:07 pm    
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I was watching a bunch of YouTube videos on my tv (awesome! use my Roku box Smile)and couldn't help notice all the steels were moving sideways when the players used the knee levers. Of course I know this already but when you see it on a big screen tv it's even more conspicuous.
That's always been a pet peeve of mine...unsuccessfully trying to find a steel that was rock solid.
I wonder, with all the sophistication that goes into these fine instruments, why they haven't been engineered to be more stable? Those levers exert a lot of torque on the metal body and they end up rocking like a boat. Thoughts?
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Jim Cohen


From:
Philadelphia, PA
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2014 7:11 pm    
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Older MSA or Sierra?
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Tony Palmer


From:
St Augustine,FL
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2014 8:07 pm    
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Yes to the older MSA....I used to own one but the trade off was it was a heavy beast!
Real heavy. No to the Sierra, as I have three Session models and they all move...unless you mean the old style, which I never played.
But the real question is why aren't the new ones engineered to be more solid and not move Sad ?
Maybe cross braces are needed...
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Roger Shackelton

 

From:
MINNESOTA (deceased)
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2014 11:13 pm    
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Fender Pedal Steel Guitars used a larger diameter leg & the threaded end was a 3/4" X 10 thread.

If modern PSGs used that size of threaded leg insert they wouldn't sway. Smile

Roger
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Jim Priebe

 

From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 12:59 am    
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And if a player is hitting the notes, the problem is ????
I've never seen one crack off at the legs (yet).
Cab drop is a bigger problem and it's not even visible (thank goodness!).
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 1:19 am    
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With time, the screws securing the endplates to the cabinet can loosen. This makes it worse.
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John Booth


From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 2:59 am    
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Lane Gray wrote:
With time, the screws securing the endplates to the cabinet can loosen. This makes it worse.


True that !
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Dave Diehl

 

From:
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 7:23 am    
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Jim's right. I have an MSA Classic D10 and it's steady as a rock. Heavey but steady!
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 8:49 am    
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Neither does my MSA. The BMI'S are rock solid too.
My left knee's on my 12 string are each pulling three strings. Doesn't even flinch. Just a theory but other brands may be weaker because of the type of wood in the front and rear aprons. Tenn. Lee
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Herb Steiner

 

From:
Spicewood TX 78669
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 9:12 am    
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Just the act of assembling and disassembling the instrument thousands of times puts wear and tear on the aprons and endplates, both the screw holes that mount the cabinet, and the aluminum female threads in the endplates that connect to the (much harder) steel nipple on the legs.

And those amongst us that carry their steels assembled in the van also put great amounts of stress on the aprons and endplates. So and older guitar generally has this type of wear and tear to overcome.
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 9:55 am    
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The lighter model steels are going to move a little even if everything is tight. I don't think that is a drawback at all, just a fact. Also, some players hit their levers much harder than others. My 40+ year old P/P's don't move at all but they are heavy guitars.

Also what Herb said, any guitar is going to loosen over time from taking apart and putting back together and or riding setup, which may cause some looseness in the parts, legs, endplates, etc.
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Jack Aldrich

 

From:
Washington, USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 11:45 am    
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I really haven't had this problem with my ShoBuds and my Carter. I just make sure the legs are on good and tight.
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 2:16 pm    
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"Shaky Steels?"
Cause:- Too much time at the Bar.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2014 3:20 pm    
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This invention (called a "Brad's Rack") made back in the '70s solved the problem, but was just too heavy and bulky to gain any appeal. Anyhow, most instruments move a little, and it only matters if you think it does! Laughing


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Tony Palmer


From:
St Augustine,FL
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 7:23 am    
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Wow now that's what I'm talking about...minus the weight Sad
On the other hand I wonder if an extra pedal bar across the top would make a difference?
I photoshopped this image to illustrate...

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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 9:22 am    
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Tony Palmer wrote:
...I wonder if an extra pedal bar across the top would make a difference?


That might help a little, but a diagonal brace would be far more effective. Winking
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 11:04 am    
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Tony Palmer wrote:

On the other hand I wonder if an extra pedal bar across the top would make a difference?

What would help would prevent change of distance between top right and bottom left, & vice versa. Tension is easier than compression so a pair of wires in an X shape firmly fixed would solve it.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 11:59 am    
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I have very little movement out of my Franklin when operating the knee levers (and none with the pedals).
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Tommy Mc


From:
Middlesex VT
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 2:06 pm    
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Tony Palmer wrote:

On the other hand I wonder if an extra pedal bar across the top would make a difference?


My first steel was a "Little Buddy" by USA Steel. That thing would rock if you just looked at it sideways. I was working in a Formica shop at the time, so I built a matching replacement pedal bar. It was probably 6" high and attached with 2 screws/wing-nuts on each leg...4 total. Having two anchor points on each leg made it a lot steadier.
I sold (unloaded) the instrument years ago, but here's a photoshop of what it looked like:
[/img]
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 19 Nov 2014 3:10 pm    
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That replacement deep pedal bar is in effect a pair of diagonal braces - excellent idea. I was thinking how any sort of diagonal piece in the top corner is an aesthetic no-no that reduces the magical PSG to nothing prettier than a cheap folding table.

Cast endplates screwed to a wooden cabinet will work loose. Woodscrews are not designed to withstand the lateral forces. Better if they aren't countersunk, but still not good.

Here is a picture of a ZB Custom where all the parts are welded together.



Looks like it should be rock solid if the leg threads are good. I was summoned to examine the mechanism and I never set it up so I don't know for sure. Any ZB owner care to comment?
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Bill Shipman

 

From:
Florida, USA
Post  Posted 20 Nov 2014 10:19 am     Shaky steels
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I have a Nashville Ltd that does that quite a bit. However, in all fairness to the steel, it has been raised up almost 5 inches in height due to my being 6'8" tall. Beyond that, I believe that the end cap design is a bit flawed by only having 1 screw that attaches each corner to the rails. These screw holes have over time stripped out and I am having to put oversized screws in. Hopefully this will help in that department. One other problem I had is that the changer had moved forward on 1 side as the screw holding the changer to the body also stripped out and even putting a bolt through it was not enough to salvage it. Wound up having to have a piece of aluminum attached to the body so as to straighten it out and to make sure it would not break free again.
It was canted enough that my steel repair man thought that it was a 24 inch span and turned out to be 24 1/4. This also caused the fingers to no be properly aligned. Nothing moved smoothly and in fact you could not pull the strings unless the pedals were attached. It was that bound up.
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David Mason


From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
Post  Posted 21 Nov 2014 7:12 pm    
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Why? Acceptance, complacency, lack of innovation... "if it was good enough for so-an-so to play "Nightlife"..." In the 1960's, cars used to rattle apart too. Now they're lighter, get better mileage and last four times as long. Because the design changed.... Rolling Eyes But you can't improve perfection, and everything is perfect. Like smoothbore muskets and lead pipes.
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Les Cargill

 

From:
Oklahoma City, Ok, USA
Post  Posted 21 Nov 2014 7:27 pm    
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I'm being pedantic, but the British Army used smooth bore muskets until the mid 19th century because rate of fire was a skosh better and tactics were still skirmish line, until the percussion cap. If you've ever loaded a Kentucky Long Rifle, you'll know why. It's *work*. So you never can tell what will be the priority.
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 21 Nov 2014 10:49 pm    
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This is Harry Partch's Surrogate Kithera. Note how the body and seat are a single integrated unit. Perhaps if there was some way of attaching a steel to our paca-seats, the steel would be less inclined to shake or walk.


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John Booth


From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2014 5:01 am    
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Mike Perlowin wrote:
This is Harry Partch's Surrogate Kithera. Note how the body and seat are a single integrated unit. Perhaps if there was some way of attaching a steel to our paca-seats, the steel would be less inclined to shake or walk


Wow, That is very cool !
Here's the Fender PS-210 that does a similar thing



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