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Topic: Am I crazy for wanting to drill through my Shobud legs? |
James Barker
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 8:50 am |
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| I'm sure you guys are getting tired of hearing from me but rest assured I almost have this ldg exactly where I want it. The playability and reliability of my msa classic is what I'm trying to get. I love the tone and sustain of the bud but I still need to work on cleaning up the action because it doesn't play anywhere close to as clean and easy as the msa. The other thing. I hate the leg clamps. Am I the only one? The screw through the pedal bar and legs make so much more sense to me. Does anyone have a reason that I shouldn't drill a hole and use a screw and wing nut to hold the bar on? It seems much more reliable to me. Thanks guys. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 9:23 am
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It's your guitar, do what you want. Maybe you could just set it up on blocks.  |
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Earnest Bovine
From:
Los Angeles CA USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 9:27 am Re: Am I crazy for wanting to drill through my Shobud legs?
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| James Barker wrote: |
| Does anyone have a reason that I shouldn't drill a hole and use a screw and wing nut to hold the bar on? |
I did that on my Sho Bud and it works great. But it does take a little longer to set up. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 9:52 am
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It makes a (slightly) more stable guitar.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 9:53 am
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| If you can do it right, it's a pretty good idea! |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Spicewood TX 78669
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 9:59 am Carry extra wing nuts
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Until you drop a wing nut and it falls through the crack in the stage. And the Universal Rule is that any small part that is dropped... wingnut, machine screw, et al., WILL find the one crack in the stage and enter it. Then your very expensive steel will be a very difficult thing to play.
I personally don't care for that fastening method, but if you like it, carry extra wing nuts.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:17 am Re: Carry extra wing nuts
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| Herb Steiner wrote: |
Until you drop a wing nut and it falls through the crack in the stage. And the Universal Rule is that any small part that is dropped... wingnut, machine screw, et al., WILL find the one crack in the stage and enter it. Then your very expensive steel will be a very difficult thing to play.
I personally don't care for that fastening method, but if you like it, carry extra wing nuts. |
And, if there is no crack or hole in the stage, it seems to make one on it's own, or onto the dance floor and kicked a mile away from you by someone walking by. My ZB's fastened that way. I also don't like it. If you happen to let go of the pedal bar while one of the screws is through a leg, you run the risk of bending the screw. I've done that a few times. It's also hard to get the bent screw out of the pedal bar. I don't ever want to go back to that way way.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:29 am
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| I've dropped a couple wingnutz in my time! They always fell into the case. I was always careful putting my guitar together, and never had any of the problems mentioned. |
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:35 am Re: Am I crazy for wanting to drill through my Shobud legs?
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| James Barker wrote: |
| ...I hate the leg clamps. Am I the only one? The screw through the pedal bar and legs make so much more sense to me... |
I agree. I've never understood it. I love the feel of Sho-Bud pedals, but the way the rack attaches to the legs makes little sense to me. |
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Tom Gorr
From:
Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:44 am
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| Allan, do you like the wide or narrow sb pedals? |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:52 am
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| Well, I vastly prefer the old wide ones! |
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 10:57 am
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| Tom Gorr wrote: |
| Alan, do you like the wide or narrow sb pedals? |
The wide ones. I also like the way they have a curved contour. I prefer them to all the other pedal steels that I have. |
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Tom Gorr
From:
Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 13 Nov 2014 11:40 pm
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| That's interesting...I play in socks, can't stand my sho bud wide curved pedals...it's sheer pain...but...I really bond with the tone, so I suffer with a smile. |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 14 Nov 2014 4:07 am
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regarding the action and playability, have you torn down the changer, removed each finger from the axle, cleaned, inspected, re-lubed and put it all back together ? This also includes the rollers at the nut.
???
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 14 Nov 2014 5:33 am
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I never understand wanting a different brand of guitar sound and/or play like a different one. If I wanted a MSA sound or how it played I would get an MSA. I wouldn't take another brand, whatever brand, and try to make it sound or play like, for example an MSA. Each guitar has its own feel and sound and what basically sets each brand of guitar apart.
I see a lot of people that want the Emmons PP sound. The only real way to get an Emmons PP sound is to have an Emmons PP guitar.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 14 Nov 2014 10:35 am
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What Jack says makes a lot of sense. It's akin to those people who buy the "sitar" tone bar to make their steel sound like a sitar. If you want the sound of a sitar, use a sitar. If you want the sound of a resonator guitar, use a resonator guitar, not a non-resonator played through an electronic gadget.  |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Spicewood TX 78669
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Posted 14 Nov 2014 10:48 am
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| Alan Brookes wrote: |
| What Jack says makes a lot of sense. It's akin to those people who buy the "sitar" tone bar to make their steel sound like a sitar. If you want the sound of a sitar, use a sitar. If you want the sound of a resonator guitar, use a resonator guitar, not a non-resonator played through an electronic gadget. |
It's analogous only for a certain group of steel players. Many professionals don't have the luxury of switching instruments at their leisure, or lugging around an arsenal of gear just to play one tune. True, a reso simulator ain't a dobro, but for 8 bars in the middle of a couple tunes a night, it will have to do.
Those of us playing in their music rooms usually have more leeway with their choices of instruments. Guys in the trenches have to make do.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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James Barker
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 14 Nov 2014 11:02 am
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Tony, no I have taken the changer apart yet. Changing the copedent a few days ago was the first time I've even done real work on a pedal and now that I have some confidence I might try to take that on after some homework and probably some questions on here.
I think you guys misunderstood me a bit. I only referenced the pedal action of my msa because that's the only guitar I know well and the pedals are smooth and effortless to move. A few nights ago the sho bud was pretty rough and loud but since I've been playing it more it's loosening some. I'm just trying to get the Shobud in as good of shape as it can be. I think the guitar sat in a garage for a spell (hence the rust) and wasn't played. So with some more playing and guidance from you fine people I'm very confident it's going to keep getting better. I think I already have enough confidence in it to play it out next week.
I still do plan on drilling the legs. It seems way more stable and that's what I'm already used to. Thanks guys. |
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Paul Hoaglin
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Posted 15 Nov 2014 1:24 pm
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I'd love an Emmons PP, but I will never be able to afford one. (I wouldn't even be able to afford my MSA Classic now if I didn't have it already!) I wouldn't ever realistically try to "make my MSA sound like an Emmons," or a Sho-Bud, or anything else, because I understand the synergistic thing of why that doesn't work, BUT if there's a sound I hear in my head that I want to be able to coax out of my MSA (or any other piece of gear I have), I'm happy to experiment with things to try to get the instrument to get closer to that sound. I just consider myself extremely fortunate that I have a professional-level D-10 steel.
I'm also used to having the nuts go through the legs to the pedal bar, so I'd probably be thinking along the same lines myself. I say do what seems right to you. I only barely understand how the Sho-Bud pedal bars attach (I've seen a couple of pics), but I've never had a problem with the MSA bolt-through system. But I also haven't lost a wingnut onstage (fortunately for humanity, I only ever gigged out on it about five times), and I can so see how that would happen regularly, especially to me. So I agree; if you do it, stock up on a bunch of 'em.... |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 8:26 am
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| James Barker wrote: |
Tony, no I have taken the changer apart yet.
I think you guys misunderstood me a bit. I only referenced the pedal action of my msa because that's the only guitar I know well and the pedals are smooth and effortless to move.
I still do plan on drilling the legs. It seems way more stable and that's what I'm already used to. Thanks guys. |
If you will do what Tony P. suggest, you will be pleasantly surprised--you will then be thinking "Wish my MSA played as nice as my Shobud!!". You are not going to get much out of ANY brand guitar that is gummed up and corroded.
Sliders are quick and fast. The sliders are fine on the front legs "IF" you never intend to raise the guitar's height, as the hand clutch on the legs rides right on the pedal bar--because sliders can not hold the weight of your guitar by them selves--they will give when least expected if you are trying to raise your guitar height. About the time you think you can trust sliders to hold up your guitar, someone comes and leans on the corner of your guitar (requesting a song blah blah) and the sliders give and bend your pedal-rods.
But if you try to raise your guitar's height, say you are a tall guy and find it hard to get under the guitar, the only stable way is the bolt through the leg and wing nut--this will stay where you want it. Then you can safely raise your guitar to fit you perfect, and never have to worry about it collapsing and bending your pedal-rods. I always use a 1/4-20 bolt, and I thread the pedal bar so you do not have to use a backing nut which holds your leg AWAY from the pedal bar thus allowing the pedal bar to rock slightly--tuning instability.
The trick is to insert a wooden dowel in the inside of your legs--they add virtually no extra weight, and your front legs still look great. The wooden dowel holds the weight of the guitar. It's a little tricky measuring the wood dowels correct, but you'll get the knack.
I can not see applying wing-nuts unless the guitar is upside down in the case, so if you drop one, it should not go anywhere. If it does, I always carry a few extra nuts in my pack-a-seat, so no biggee. Attention to detail limits your dropping a wing-nut. You get accustomed to using them. I hope this info is useful to some one. 
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Kevin Mincke
From:
Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 8:55 am
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I like the design on my Carter for attaching the pedal bar to the legs, very similar to my Buds but the sliding part actually "locks" the pedal bar in place. This could have been done easily enough as it is just a manufacturing step.
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Earnest Bovine
From:
Los Angeles CA USA
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 9:11 am
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| Kevin Mincke wrote: |
| I like the design on my Carter for attaching the pedal bar to the legs, very similar to my Buds but the sliding part actually "locks" the pedal bar in place. |
I don't see where it locks. |
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Kevin Mincke
From:
Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 9:57 am
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 10:00 am
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| Herb Steiner wrote: |
| ...Those of us playing in their music rooms usually have more leeway with their choices of instruments. Guys in the trenches have to make do. |
I see your point, Herb. Here I am sitting comfortably in my music den, surrounded by an arsenal of dozens of different instruments. It would be a different story if I had to lug them all around.  |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Nov 2014 10:11 am
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| Kevin Mincke wrote: |
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Beg to differ just a little---That in no way "locks" the leg so the pedal bar will not slide up the leg. If the hand clutch sits ON your pedal bar, it's a moot point anyways.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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