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Author Topic:  String confusion....
Marty Forrer

 

From:
New Zealand
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 12:52 am    
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As I'm a newbie, I'm finding confusion with string gauges. I see different brands with completely different gauges for the same tuning. For instance one brand will have an E tuning set running from 17 to 56, and another brand will have the same tuning using 13 to 38. Am I missing something here? I'm in the throes of building a lap steel with a multibender bridge and roller nut, and have no idea what string gauges to use.
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Tony Lombardo


From:
Alabama, USA
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 1:30 am    
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You might want to get a copy of Andy Volk's fine book called Slide Rules. In it, he lays out all the tunings and their corresponding string gauges in a really nice way.
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Jeff Mead


From:
London, England
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 1:35 am    
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Some people prefer heavier gauge strings and some prefer lighter ones. This choice is also dependant on the scale length of your guitar (nut to bridge). I like fairly heavy strings but 17 for a top E sounds a bit on the heavy side to me.

For the sets you used as examples, the 17 gauge E string will have to be tightened to a much higher tension than the 13 gauge to reach the note. A heavier (thicker) gauge set of strings will feel a lot less "springy" than a lighter set.

Another factor is the scale length - this varies with different guitars between about 22" and 26". I would suggest that the heaviest gauge set is intended for a shorter scale length - if you try to tune a 17 gauge E string to pitch on a 26" instrument it might break before you get there.

Typically, most people go for heavier gauge strings as you get a stronger/better tone and, unlike a regular fretted guitar, string bending isn't an issue.

There is a useful table on this page which gives some suggested gauges for different tunings and scale lengths.

http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/learning/gauges.php

But, as I said, it's all a matter of taste - some people prefer the more springy feel of a lighter set or the thinner, more trebly sound you get. Maybe start with a set of medium scale strings. Experiment a bit by tuning the whole guitar a tone higher and a tone lower and see what feels better to you. If you like the feel of the tighter strings (guitar tuned a tone high), get heavier ones next time.

If you're a newbie, you'll probably end up trying a few different tunings before you find your favourite which will probably mean changing string gauges around a bit anyway.
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Marty Forrer

 

From:
New Zealand
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 2:49 am    
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Many thanks for that info.
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Dom Franco


From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 5:16 am    
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If you are going to be using a multi-bender, you need to follow the rules for pedal steel strings on the ones you will be bending. For example if you are pulling an E up to an F# you need to use a gauge for the F# (use a smaller gauge because the F# will have higher tension) And of course bending strings will tend to break more often. So depending on your build, scale length, and how much you pull: you will need extra strings.

You will need to experiment a little, but strings are relatively cheap. I don't think a pre-packaged set is going to meet your requirements. (since you are bending) You will need to buy extra individual strings or extra sets of "armpit" guitar strings to get the gauges you need.

Standard "armpit" guitar strings are way cheaper than steel sets because they are mass produced for a million guitars, while steel guitars are comparatively rare.

Dom Cool
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Tom Pettingill


From:
California, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 5:33 am     Re: String confusion....
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Marty Forrer wrote:
... I'm in the throes of building a lap steel with a multibender bridge and roller nut, and have no idea what string gauges to use.

All good info above. Andy's book Slide Rules is great and John Ely's page is a good read and handy resource.

As Dom points out, choosing gauges for a multibender bridge equipped steel is a balancing act. In particular, setting one up to lower on the Dusenberg can be a pain as you are relying on the return spring to bring the string back to proper pitch / tension. Too heavy and the spring can not overcome the higher tension. Too light, and the lowered string will feel too loose and can sound kind of flubby.
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Andy Volk


From:
Boston, MA
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 5:37 am    
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Corrected Slide Rules link:

http://volkmedia.com/Volkmedia.com/Slide_Rules_Book.html
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Jim Williams

 

From:
Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 7:45 am    
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Make sure you are looking at exactly the same tunings...that sounds like a wide variance to me. Could one be open E and the other be E7, E13, E9 etc.? I only play C6 so I'm not terribly versed in the different tunings but there shouldn't be that much difference in two sets of plain E strings. I would not expect to see more than a 2 gauge or so variance for the same tuning in commercially available string sets. Also make sure the sets are all for lap steel.
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Chris Templeton


From:
The Green Mountain State
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 8:19 am    
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Here's an excellent chart that John Ely made: http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/learning/gauges.php
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Keith Glendinning


From:
United Kingdom
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 11:52 am    
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Hi Marty,
You haven't actually said which tuning you're aiming for! You mention E tuning but you don't say what scale length you intend. There are many "sets" of strings for different tunings. I recently bought a set for E13 and when I received them the were too short for the guitar I wanted to fit them to. Caveat Emptor as they say. That said, if you state what you specifically want, there'll be lots of advice proferred here on the Forum.
Bye the way, is Swamp Ash readily available in NZ?
Keith.
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Marty Forrer

 

From:
New Zealand
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2014 2:32 pm    
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Keith, yes, there are some good wood sources here, but I have had this piece forever, I cant even remember where it came from. I made an electric upright bass about twenty years ago, I think I bought it then.
My scale is 22.5" and I'm looking at this stage to tune E B E G# B E low to high, with the bender raising the G# to A and the high B to C#. This would give the root and 4th on the same bar and the 5th two "frets" up.
I'm actually a double bass player, so all this is very new to me. I am open to suggestions if anyone thinks I could be doing this better... Very Happy
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