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Post new topic Sho Bud Maverick - worth it?
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Author Topic:  Sho Bud Maverick - worth it?
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2014 9:39 am    
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The crossover mechanism is the major problems that you hear about this model. I say leave it disconnected unless you are really good at working on them. That guitar is now just a Sho-Bud Professional, which, from what I have seen on here over the years, and much preferred model. Changing it back over will probably require him having to send it out for repair, and he barely had the money to buy it in the first place. Let him learn on this one, and if he is so inclined to, he can connect it back up later.
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2014 10:49 am    
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Richard makes a lot of sense. Leave it as a E9, and learn to play that tuning. Plus, the C6 started off as a non-pedal tuning. You can dabble with it without pedals, and then add the pedals at some future point.

The time may come when you want to play both necks, but decide to get a different guitar with better mechanics.
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Dan Dunne

 

From:
Asheville, North Carolina
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2014 11:32 am    
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Thanks guys! I may hook up the crossover at some point in the future. For now, I'm (hopefully) not going to mess with the mechanics at all. Just see if I can learn some basics. Can't wait to hear the guitar through my Fender Pro. Very excited. This gives me a MAJOR excuse to turn the guest bedroom into a combo music room. Unfortunately it's in the basement, and I sometimes worry about the humidity down there. But I'm going to move the dehumidifier to that room and leave it running all the time. Plus there is an AC vent in that room. So I think the electronics will be okay. My amp has been in the closet and not played in 2-3 months so this will be nice to get it out again. I will also have a PC hooked up so I can do some recording. I've got a multi-effects pedal with some drum beats that I can play along with. I'm wondering if I can use the pedal on that multi-station as a volume pedal. That would save me from buying a proper one for now...but I think I will buy a proper one in the future. Maybe even a Sho Bud pedal. Wish me luck! I'll try to take some pics once I get the guitar and get the music room set up.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2014 1:26 pm    
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Mike, if you look at the Crossover he bought here on the forum, the E9th neck has 4&4, and the C6 neck has 4 and 1 (or was it two?)
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 14 Sep 2014 2:33 pm    
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He does't say how many levers on C6. It looks as though one of the left levers is using racks from pedal 8. I don't see racks for the others. Looks like pedal 7 is working both neck. It has the regular C6 pedal 7, and two changes on E9. Looks to be a raise on string 8 and doing something on string 1 or 2. I hope we get more detailed pictures when Dan gets it. I'm really curious about the added knee levers and how they work with no apparent racks (well, as far as I can see).
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Dan Dunne

 

From:
Asheville, North Carolina
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2014 8:34 pm    
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Just letting you know that the seller kindly "tuned up" the guitar before he shipped it, and he reconnected the crossover. Not sure if that is a good thing or bad thing...depends if it stays in tune, I guess...but either way I know who to contact if I need to disconnect it again. Should have everything all set up by the weekend, I'm thinking! Cool
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Alan Brookes


From:
Brummy living in Southern California
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2014 9:01 am    
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Dan Dunne wrote:
...Should have everything all set up by the weekend, I'm thinking! Cool

...and you should have gotten used to all its features by Christmas 2018. Very Happy
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Dan Dunne

 

From:
Asheville, North Carolina
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2014 9:20 am    
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Haha Alan! Yes, I am expecting a steep learning curve. First step will be to learn the I, IV, V changes on the E9 and get used to the fingerpicking, I think. That will probably take a good month or two right there! I've never got along well with fingerpicks and gave up on them pretty quickly but I'm going to try to force myself in this case.
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Jess Tolbirt

 

From:
White Bluff, Tn.
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2014 8:09 am    
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2 months have passed, are you bending those strings yet? i have been on the steel since '97 and i still aint there yet,,but i do have fun with it..
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John Booth


From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Nov 2014 6:18 am    
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Having been there years ago I must too advise that you pass on the Maverick.
If you play a regular guitar think of the frustration of owning the worst one
you can find, strings too high, scratchy knobs, won't stay in tune,
everything you play sounds like hell, THAT'S a Maverick.
Take some time, talk to the guys on here, they'll help you find a deal friend
that you can actually play and enjoy.
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GFI S10 Ultra, Telecaster, a Hound Dog, and an Annoyed Wife
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 16 Nov 2014 6:32 am    
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John, if you read the rest of the thread, he bought a Crossover. Much better than the Mav.
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John Booth


From:
Columbus Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Nov 2014 6:33 am    
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Whoops Embarassed

Thanks friend.
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GFI S10 Ultra, Telecaster, a Hound Dog, and an Annoyed Wife
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Dan Dunne

 

From:
Asheville, North Carolina
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2014 2:55 pm    
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Hey, I've been thinking of updating you guys...you were all so helpful and encouraging in purchasing the guitar, whether you were advocating for the Crossover or the Stage One.

I've "played around" a little bit with it right now, but honestly another hobby needed attention shortly after buying the steel...

My Dad and Grandpa grew me some hops last year and I needed to brew some beer for them to share on Thanksgiving. This was my first batch of "all grain" brewing, so it took some equipment purchases, research, time...my Dad was giving me some grief for not using last year's crop yet, so I thought I'd better get on it.

I may just need some clarification on the tuning yet. Not sure if I've asked here yet, but I was just reading a tuning thread before I saw this. Just not sure I know how to use my tuner. So let's say I'm tuning an "A" string and I want to tune that string to 440. So I just set my tuner to 440 hz and then tune until the needle centers to zero? And then let's say I want to tune a B string to 438 and also 12 cents sharp...set the tuner to 438 and then tune until the needle is 12 cents sharp? Sorry for the stupid questions. I'm an intermediate/beginner guitar player and have basically only tuned to 440 and ignored the cents all together! I think my guitar was more in tune when I got it...even after shipping...than it is now! Planning to play some after the Thanksgiving holiday! My buddy emailed me a track that he wants me to try to play some pedal steel over, so that should be fun.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2014 3:07 pm    
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438 is 8 cents flat. So you can't do both.
If your tuner doesn't have a scale demarcated in Hertz, you'll just leave the tuner calibrated to 440 and use a chart that lists values in cents.
You'll want the B string somewhere between 0 and +5 cents, with the A pedal tuning the C# to somewhere between -12 and - 18
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2014 3:41 pm    
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Here's another old tuning thread, that might help clarify:

http://steelguitarforum.com/Forum5/HTML/010967.html

And the original reference:

http://www.jeffran.com/tuning.php
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2014 5:12 pm    
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Those with real tuners might have it easier with www.buddyemmons.com/ttchart.htm
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Willie Sims

 

From:
PADUCAH, KY, USA
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2014 10:28 am    
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I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but the maverick was bad a bout breaking the changer fingers. The ones that I have worked on didn't have pedal stops, the only thing that stopped the changer fingers was when the changer fingers bottom out . Without pedal stops they would break the changer fingers at the changer.willie sims.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 25 Nov 2014 11:41 am    
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Pull-release is SUPPOSED to bottom out on the body.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Willie Sims

 

From:
PADUCAH, KY, USA
Post  Posted 26 Nov 2014 8:31 am    
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Lane, I know the changer fingers are supposed to bottom out on the guitar body. But the ones that I have worked on didn't not have pedal stops, from what I can see when the changer fingers bottom out the pedals without stops would put more pressure on the fingers and break the ends off. I fabricated stops for the pedals, and that prevented breaking the changer fingers. Willie SIMS.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 26 Nov 2014 10:57 am    
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this is the first time i've ever heard of maverick fingers breaking.
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Willie Sims

 

From:
PADUCAH, KY, USA
Post  Posted 26 Nov 2014 3:40 pm    
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Chris/unless i am mistaken the ones that I worked on that were broken were made of pot metal. The same as the show bud knee lever that were easy to break. They would always break where the hook went through the hole in the changer fingers. Anyone with a heavy foot could put a lot of pressure on the changer fingers when they bottom out onthe body of the guitar Without a pedal stop, I can't believe I'm the only one that has come across this problem. Willie SIMS.
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