E's not going back

J. David Carrera · From: Los Angeles, CA

My 8th and 4th stings aren't returning all the way on my MSA classic S10. Because of it, whenever I use my LKR, the E's become flat. I tried putting a bit of oil in there and it help for a bit but I have to do it every few days or the problem comes back. Should I take it apart and grease it up?

Is there anyone in Los Angeles that I can take it to?

Thanks.

Paul Sutherland · From: Placerville, California

There should be return springs to bring the lowers back up to pitch. Usually, if not always, those can be adjusted. Look and see if there are a row of screws below the tuners at the changer end. That's where the return springs are usually adjusted. If you have such screws, try tightening the 4th and 8th.

If that doesn't work, or you really don't want to do this yourself, drive down to Oceanside to see Jim Palenscar at his store. He can fix this for sure.
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Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

The old Classics had no ajdustments on the lowering springs, but they were sufficiently strong enough that they seldom give problems returning. Since you're having the problem on both E strings, I'd guess the guitar is slighty over-tuned. Check to make sure there is slack in all the pulls on the E strings, and back off and re-tune all the nylon nuts on these strings, if necessary.

Jim Smith · From: Midlothian, TX, USA

Also check for anything that might be dragging. Remove those two strings and the spring to make sure the changer fingers move freely. If they do, cut a coil or two off the return springs to get more return tension.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

If oil helps, but only temporarily, I think I'd say there might be a buildup of dirt in oil/tobacco haze gunk/previous owner's WD40/other gunge.
It might be time for a total cleanout of the changer fingers. Fortunately, on MSA this isn't hard, but it is involved and time-consuming.
Donny's overtuning suggestion is also worth considering.
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Mike Perlowin · From: Los Angeles CA

You should take it to Jim Palenscar in Oceanside. It's 90 miles straight down I-5. Well worth the trip.
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Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

back off the E lowers and raises...Don't forget the C Pedal...

Adjust your 5 pulls from scratch...most probable is the lowers are over adjusted...

These are simple and well designed all pull systems...but there is not a lot of room for over adjustments...you don't need anymore oil !
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J. David Carrera · From: Los Angeles, CA

I'd like to take it to Jim, as I've done several times before, but I just don't have time right now and I'm using it a lot over the next few weeks. I'll try taking it apart (is there any tutorial for this online?)

Also what does overtuning mean?

thanks for the help!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Overtuning is when the tuning nuts are run in to the point that all slack is gone and moving the nuts have an effect on the open notes.
While most common in novice players, even old timers do it occasionally.
The first cure is to run the nuts out so that they have no effect at all (not even with the pedal/lever activated), tune the open note, then tune each change.
I've never seen any online tutorials, but you can do it yourself. First, remove the springs and strings. Take lots of pictures of each crossrod and bellcrank.
If you're worried about remembering which rod went where, remove the nylon nuts and aluminum spacer tubes, loosen the set screw on the pull pin and slide the pull rods into the guitar, and note which hole in the changer it will go back into.
Then remove the four slotted screws that hold the pillow blocks (This may take some doing: I had the heads break off of some screws. I took the guitar to an automotive machine shop to have them remove the broken screws). Slide out the pillow blocks, and the changer will come right out. Take each finger off and clean them. Take lots of pictures at every stage.
And have fun....
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
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chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

i don't think 'you' should take it apart. just do the retuning by slacking off the nylon tuning nuts as they said. then retune them carefully.

if you try to take it apart you probably won't be using it for the next couple weeks.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Indeed. I missed the bit about heavy use et c.
If slacking and retuning doesn't work, it will probably take a week or two if you're not used to doing it. If you don't break screws. Then add a day or two.
Jim Palenscar would be quicker.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

J. David Carrera · From: Los Angeles, CA

Overtuning was the problem. Loosened all the pulls and now it works perfectly. So glad I didn't take it apart.

Thanks guys.

Lee Dassow · From: Jefferson, Georgia USA

yeah, keep it simple. Especially if your using it a lot. Tennessee Lee
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Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

fact of the matter is , if you have the place to lay it out and the proper tools, you can take this Steel apart , clean and lube everything including the changer and have it back together the next day, approx 12 hrs total ...It really is not a difficult task...(talking E9th) These are nicely designed systems and as stated above , you just can't over tune them... If you do take your Steel apart some day you will be shocked at how much better it plays when you put it all back together...consider this, if this is a 70's era Steel, it is now over 40 years old...it's probably time for an oil change...
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Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
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CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

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