BMI tuning problem

Jim Williams · From: Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!

I seem to be unable to get the C pedal on my BMI S10 to quite pull the E up to F#. It gets almost there but not quite. I have the rod in the furthest hole from the shaft on the bellcrank but if I adjust the end tuner up to the F# it starts having an effect on the open E. There is not a travel adjust as such on that pedal the travel is being stopped by the cross shaft hitting the end of it's travel in the hole in the side of the frame. (You probably have to have a BMI to understand that statement.) It is only a few cents flat, but I should be able to get it shouldn't I? The string is a .014, by the way. One other question, on the thread end of the tuning rods on this guitar there are some metal "bullet" shaped spacers and some round nylon spacers between the tuning nut and the changer finger. Which way should the bullet "nose" point? To the changer or to the tuning nut? Does it matter?
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.

Dan Burnham · From: Greenfield, Tennessee

Jim,
The bullet nose spacer should face in toward the changer finger. The smaller end should be facing the changer hole.

Give Don a call at the following numbers and he can help you with your problem:

call him @ 1-479-938-2575

Hope this helps,

Dan
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BMI S12 Zane Beck's Tuning
www.danburnham.com

Jim Williams · From: Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!

Thanks Dan, I'll give him a call. That's what I thought on those spacers, but just wanted to be sure.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

You can move this ball to the next hole. This will increase the amount of pull. You didn't mention but if the rod is not in the changer hole closer to the changer axle...that is where you'd get the most pull. You can exchange positions with the F lever if need be.

AND--the only reason I mention this is because it was the solution to a problem I had----make sure the pedal is not hitting the floor! If it is, you are in danger of feeling as stupid as I did when I discovered that this was the root of my problem once.

Jim Williams · From: Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!

Thanks Jon. I do have the pedal rods close on the hole nearest the axle, and I checked for the floor Smile

. After working on it tonight I got it working...I think I had a nylon spacer hanging up a little in the changer hole. The nuts are also worn out and I am going to replace them soon which I think will help with stability.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.

Jack Harper · From: Mississippi, USA

hey jim;
on Thursday evening, the 29th of may, the swingin' brakemen will be playing at the best western conference center in meridian as the international singing brakemans association honors the legacy of jimmie Rodgers.
come by and let's talk about steel guitars.

country jack.....

Jim Williams · From: Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!

Hi Jack, I plan to be there and will look you up.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.

Lee Dassow · From: Jefferson, Georgia USA

Jim, Theres a stop screw on the cross Bar.If you back that out a little. It will give you a little more travel on the floor pedal,Because it will bring the cross bar closer To the body. You'll have to readjust your B string Too. I had that problem once. Also do not move those Studs From the center holes of the floor pedal. They belong in the center hole. That's what Don say's. Tennessee Lee
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2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars,

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

There are occasions that, due to wear of the fingers, I've experienced the same thing. I've simply drilled another hole nearer the top of the bellcrank for the rod and that helped.

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

I have experienced this problem with a BMI and I removed the cross shaft so I could remove the bolt that serves as the cross shaft stop in the hole on the front apron, ground the head of the stop bolt down to a slightly smaller diameter and put it back together and this allowed enough cross shaft travel.
To shorten and simplify the story, just locate the bolt that is serving as a stop and make the head of that bolt slightly smaller diameter.
Jerry
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http://www.littleoprey.org/

Jim Williams · From: Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I have it now. I still don't however see a stop adjustment screw on that crossbar. There is one on the E raise crossbar however. I had also thought of the trick of putting another hole in the bellcrank bracket if need be...there is enough room there.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

On BMI's the pedal cross bars frequently have screws that limit forward motion of the forward stop. If so- backing them off a titch will give more travel and hopefully allow the pull to be far enough.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Yes----my 1983 BMI has these screws in the crossbars that adjust the bar's starting position, at rest. As per Jim, by bringing these screws up you are increasing the available usable arc of the bar's rotation.

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