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Author Topic:  Cleaning the changer
Ron Mishler

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 12:25 pm    
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Is there someone who can enlighten me on the best procedure in cleaning my changer w/lighter fluid? I have purchased 12 oz. and have tape and material to cover finish and electronics and a basin to catch what drains. Is there something I am forgetting? Should I put the pedal rack on and work the pedals after pouring on the fluid?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 12:53 pm    
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I think I'd rather disassemble it first.
If I had a determination to flush while assembled, I'd:
1: fill a sewing machine oiler with the fluid (the kind with a tube)
2: put paper towels under guitar
3: guitar standing up, put the end of the tube below the part of the finger that holds the strings, where it's just the two plates, squeeze a bit out, about a half teaspoon should do it.
4: actuate both raises and lowers, give another squeeze.
5: repeat at next string.
6: let dry overnight.
7: lubricate with your choice of lube.

Again, I'm not a fan of your chosen method, I think it can force dirt and grit into places that only a teardown get at it. But that's how I'd do it if I would do it.
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Ron Mishler

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 1:09 pm     Cleaning Changer
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Thanks Lane for responding I need as much help in this as I can get. Sounds like a good plan of action. R.D.
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 2:22 pm    
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Ron,
You probably already know, naphtha is the same stuff.
Make sure to wipe off any standing fluid that gets on the finish, though I've never had naphtha do any damage at all. I'd put news papers down on the ground and use lots of naphtha and work the pedals a lot, then repeat. I'd then blow it out with an air compressor, ,then let dry over night then oil it up with well shaken Tri-Flow. Should make a world of difference. RP
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 2:53 pm    
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Be careful with naptha if you have a mica guitar, because naptha will soften the contact cement that holds the mica on! Winking

And remember, this should be done outdoors. Whoa! It makes no sense to try it indoors, because the fumes are toxic and explosive.
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Kevin Hatton

 

From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2014 5:31 pm    
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Automotive electronics spray cleaner is much better. It evaporates much faster and does a more thorough job, and leaves no after smell or residue. You can get it at any automotive supply store. Put newspapers under the guitar outside to catch the drip.
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Willie Sims

 

From:
PADUCAH, KY, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jan 2014 9:30 am    
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My choice of lubricating the changer is a hypodermic needle filled with your choice of lubricant. You can put the needle precisely where you want to put a drop or two of lubricant. Works real well.
Willie sims
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Bobby Bowman

 

From:
Cypress, Texas, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 29 Jan 2014 10:08 am    
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Plaine 'ol lighter fluid will work as good as anything.
There are almost countless other solvents that work. Just be carefull in what you use, read and understand the directions and test it before hand if possible.
BB
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Ron Mishler

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2014 8:09 am     Cleaning Changer
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Thanks everybody for your input!
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Michael Gentry


From:
Rock Island, Illinois
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2014 2:47 pm    
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not sure if the ingredients of the cleaner you're using and the changer parts are comparable but word to the wise. My MSA Semi-Classic changer has plastic spacers between the fingers. When carb cleaner was applied it attacked (melted) the plastic spacers. Better to dismantle and clean all parts separately with appropriate detergents. Warm water and dish soap for plastic and carb cleaner for metal.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2014 4:07 pm    
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carb cleaner is more toxic and strong than lighter fluid. you do want to be more careful to keep it off plastic and paint, etc.
i've used it because it will clean up ugly rods and such, but be careful.

now i just let everything stay ugly.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2014 4:27 pm    
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I once cleaned our HP laser-printer case with "Swish", a contact cleaner used by electricians. Well, in no time at all, it smeared the pebble finish on the outside and welded the door shut where the toner cartridge goes. Laughing

The good news is...now I know how to fix a cracked printer case! Mr. Green
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Michael Hummel


From:
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2014 12:55 pm    
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Here's a cool story: I took my old Sho~Bud to Mac Knowles, a builder a half-hour west of me. He normally uses solvents to clean changers, but we've had a wicked cold spell lately, so he couldn't get his shop warm enough to work in it.

Had to work on my guitar inside the house, and didn't want to expose his wife to solvent fumes, so he ended up using dishwashing soap diluted with some water. He said it worked pretty well. Not quite as good as naphtha, but he managed to get everything cleaned out.

He promises me the guitar works like new (haven't tried it yet). But I'm glad he used an eco-friendly method.

Mike
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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2014 3:59 pm    
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As Lane and a couple others mentioned--The only way to properly clean a changer is to disassemble it and clean it part by part. Anything less is just a band-aid on the problem. Be sure to take plenty of pics for re-assembly. Smile

Don't believe me? Go ahead and pour your favorite cleaner through until you believe it's clean, then tear it apart and you will see all the crud you missed, and that crud that is the deepest in your changer, is why you are messing with it anyways.

When you have the changer apart, you can now polish the moving parts for optimum performance from your changer. There are no "magic methods" or "quick-fix" to avoid the necessary work. But the rewards are great. Smile
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2014 7:52 am    
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James, I really agree with the thought that the only way to clean it properly is to take it apart. That said, there are a lot of people who have poor skills in this area. For them, the best thing is probably just to oil it and go on playing. That gunk on the outside of the changer, where you can see it, really isn't hurting anything. Oh Well
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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2014 10:58 am    
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Donny Hinson wrote:
James, I really agree with the thought that the only way to clean it properly is to take it apart. That said, there are a lot of people who have poor skills in this area. For them, the best thing is probably just to oil it and go on playing. That gunk on the outside of the changer, where you can see it, really isn't hurting anything. Oh Well


Respectfully Donny, Not to confuse the issue, and probably lost in the translation somewhere, I'm not remotely concerned with the grime you can see and wipe off, or rinse off. I'm after what you CAN'T see. That's where tuning issues hover around, and where the real "wear and tear" lives in a changer.

It's not that difficult to do it right, or if a person does not have the skill level to do it them selves, then get a little help. It is wisdom to LEARN how to work on your own guitar, in fact, and a project like this is a great start. There is more to owning a pedal steel guitar than just playing it until it fails.

Pouring some cleaner through the changer is just a way to convince yourself that "everything will just fine now", when in reality, the problem is probably now made worse. At a minimum, the doing it right is "put off until tomorrow", which never comes. That's my view, and my experience working on them. YMMV Smile
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2014 11:07 am    
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Wait. I thought a dirt particle in an oil bath becomes a ball bearing...
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2014 4:46 pm    
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James Morehead wrote:


Respectfully Donny, Not to confuse the issue, and probably lost in the translation somewhere, I'm not remotely concerned with the grime you can see and wipe off, or rinse off. I'm after what you CAN'T see. That's where tuning issues hover around, and where the real "wear and tear" lives in a changer.


James, I agreed with you, and you still "took me to task"?

Anyhow, my point was that I feel that some players do actually clean their changers because they just look dirty, and not because they have tuning or operational issues. Guys like you, Kevin Hatton, and Mike Cass have a lot of skills and knowledge that the average Joe just doesn't have. Believe me, I've seen a lot of guitars screwed up by well-intentioned owners (and I've even fixed a few of them) along with preaching here sbout the dubious value of "flushing" changers.

I agree it's not exactly rocket science to take the thing apart. But I, for one, would never recommend that everyone just "jump in and try it". Some people are naturally "mechanically inclined", and the rest would probably be better off going to Jiffy Lube. Very Happy
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Mac Knowles


From:
Almonte,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2014 6:08 pm    
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Thanks Mike for the comments. Just so the others know, I had the E9th changer completely apart. The original problem was lowers not returning to pitch accurately. Over the years every finger had a groove in the place on the finger where the lowering arm contacts it. Sanded them all smooth again, cleaned each part with the degreasing dishwashing liquid, polished and lubricated them all up and reassembled etc. Problem solved.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2014 9:51 pm     Cleaning the changer
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On one of his lesson CD's I have seen, Mr. Jeff Newman is squirting Lighter Fluid through the changer on his guitar. He used 20W motor oil in his time for lubing steels. As a police armor I cleaned and serviced complicated equipment men depended their lives on. Pistols, Rifles and Shot Guns. Lighter Fluid or Naptha (Lighter Fluids Base)clean well and pretty friendly. Lacquer Thinner, Carborator Cleaner, Brake Cleaner and Acetone are a big NO, NO. They will make a mess of certain plastics, lacquer finishes and rubber parts. Be sure to take cleaning outside because of fire or explosion danger with a petroleum based cleaner. Safe and Happy Steelin.
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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2014 12:05 pm    
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Donny Hinson wrote:
James Morehead wrote:


Respectfully Donny, Not to confuse the issue, and probably lost in the translation somewhere, I'm not remotely concerned with the grime you can see and wipe off, or rinse off. I'm after what you CAN'T see. That's where tuning issues hover around, and where the real "wear and tear" lives in a changer.


James, I agreed with you, and you still "took me to task"?

Very Happy


Take you to task? Respectfully, Not at all--just didn't want to be misunderstood. I probably misunderstood your comment. I have utmost respect for your experience and knowledge. Smile
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Michael Hummel


From:
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2014 8:26 pm    
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Just wanted to say that I've played the guitar since Mac cleaned and fixed it up for me, and it plays just great. My bandmates even noticed how fluid and in tune I was playing tonight.

Let's just say Mac "Knowles" what he is doing! If you are in Eastern Ontario, give Mac a call.

Mike
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