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Author Topic:  best/safest lubrication?
Steve Collins

 

From:
Alaska, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 12:20 pm    
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i am getting excessive squeaking and creaking from A and B, what is the recommended lube for moving parts?
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 12:44 pm    
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tri-lube (bicycle shop or WalMart)

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com
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Robert Parent

 

From:
Gillette, WY
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 12:52 pm    
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Tri-Flow
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 12:56 pm    
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oops you are right
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 12:58 pm    
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Here's how I did mine with Tri-Flow:

http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html


Greg
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Joe Hensley


From:
Boise, Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 1:00 pm    
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If you get the Tri-Flow, be sure you get the "Superior Lubricant" not the "Dry" (bicycle) one with wax in it.
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Steve Collins

 

From:
Alaska, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 1:46 pm    
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right, sounds like tri-flow gets the unanimous vote. thanks guys.
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Carl Kilmer


From:
East Central, Illinois
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 5:01 pm    
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The only thing I use is Tri-Flow. I got it at Wal-Mart,
but they don't carry it anymore, so I need a new source.
Carl
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 27 Oct 2011 7:02 pm    
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I also have used Tri-flow or other Teflon lubricants for years.

And ONLY the dry type. The mineral oil version gums up the works like most any oil, as it attracts and hold dirt. The paraffin used is not the stuff you would think of (like candle wax) - it's a harder material used as a binder for the Teflon. When working on changers and other moving parts I (especially on older guitars) flush everything clean with naphtha (lighter fluid) and then treat with dry Teflon lube. It never gums up, doesn't break down and takes a very long time before additional treatment is needed.

My primary steel is a 59-ish, heavily modified 8-pedal, 2-knee Fender 400 with cables, pedal rod levers one large and numerous small pulleys and a changer that has a scissor-like mechanism for each string with sliding plates. It (and every other one I've worked on) was sluggish and gummy until cleaning and dry Teflon treatment. Plays like butter now. Other Fender players are usually shocked by the light pedal action.
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Jack Ritter

 

From:
Enid, Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 4:49 am    
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Singer sewing machine oil or 30w non-detergent motor oil works very well also. Jack
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Marco Schouten


From:
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 9:57 am    
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You may also want to check if the pedal bar is still fixed tightly to the legs.
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Jeremiah Wade

 

From:
Bladenboro, NC
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 11:02 am    
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Hmmm. Astroglide... On a serious note, sewing machine oil works great as well as triflow. Cheers.
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Dennis Saydak


From:
Manitoba, Canada
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 11:09 am    
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If you need to order it, Bill Rudolph sells teflon lubricant in small applicator bottles: http://williamsguitarcompany.com/store_accessories.html
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Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster.
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Steve Collins

 

From:
Alaska, USA
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 11:18 am    
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went through the entire instrument with tri-flow, HUGE difference in noise and feel of the mechanics. spring noise was the worst culprit, all gone. now i can actually hear how bad my playing is with no interference whatsoever. thanks guys.
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Mark Daniels


From:
United Kingdom
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 2:21 pm    
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Just been looking for Tri-Flow here in the UK with a bit of difficulty and found a product called Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube. It's available from bicycle shops.

Apparently it's:

The industry’s original "dry" lubricant. Finish Line DRY Lube goes on wet, but then sets up in a dry, ‘paste-like’ film so it will not attract or absorb grit and grime. Teflon® fluoropolymer and specialized synthetic oils run silky smooth and provide excellent durability.


So looks like it ticks all same boxes as Tri-Flow, but easier to get hold of.


Add to a refillable Needle Point Oiler (from Maplin) and I should be good to go.
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Steve Collins

 

From:
Alaska, USA
Post  Posted 28 Oct 2011 6:08 pm    
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went through the entire instrument with tri-flow, HUGE difference in noise and feel of the mechanics. spring noise was the worst culprit, all gone. now i can actually hear how bad my playing is with no interference whatsoever. thanks guys.
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Dave Magram

 

From:
San Jose, California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Oct 2011 2:13 am    
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 29 Oct 2011 5:58 am    
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I am currently having great results with two products: The "wet" triflow and also what Mickey Adams uses and recommends - Mobil Jet Turbine Engine oil. Can be bought at any major airport for about $18 a quart. This oil is light and slippery.
For example - two drops down between two changer fingers is enough to keep it running smoothly without squeaks for ages.
I lubed my steel a year ago. The steel sits in my dusty, dirty shop environment and everything moves freely with no sign of binding up.
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Bobby Bowman

 

From:
Cypress, Texas, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 29 Oct 2011 6:23 am     Lube
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You might try "REM-OIL" with teflon made by Remington firearms. I like it better than anything else I've got or used and I used just about everything that's out there. You can usually get it at WalMart too.
BB
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Roual Ranes

 

From:
Atlanta, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 29 Oct 2011 7:30 am    
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I second the REM-OIL.
It is for sporting equipment so there is a plentiful supply at Wal-Mart.
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Ned McIntosh


From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 30 Oct 2011 10:12 pm    
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My preferred oil is Tri-Flow, but Rem-Oil also works just fine. I get both at my local gun-shop.

May I just add word of warning if you decide to use jet turbine oil? Contact with the skin may result in "de-fatting" of the affected area, and some people can become sensitised and develop dermatitis. It is a very, very good oil, but handle it with care. It isn't your everyday "3-in-1" variety!

An annual flushing with naptha (lighter-fluid to us Aussies) followed by re-oiling around the changer, roller-nut and moving parts in the undercarriage will go a long way to keeping your steel playing as smooth as butter.
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Ivan Posa

 

From:
Hamilton, New Zealand
Post  Posted 30 Oct 2011 11:37 pm    
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Inox
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 31 Oct 2011 4:26 am    
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Ned McIntosh wrote:


May I just add word of warning if you decide to use jet turbine oil? Contact with the skin may result in "de-fatting" of the affected area, and some people can become sensitised and develop dermatitis. It is a very, very good oil, but handle it with care. It isn't your everyday "3-in-1" variety!

Ned, I never thought of that. I got it on my fingers with no ill effects. The feel of the oil reminds me of the finest lubrication ever, and it feels very slippery.
Of course other people might react differently and I thank you for the warning.
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Mickey Adams


From:
Bandera Texas
Post  Posted 31 Oct 2011 7:26 am    
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The newer synthetic MobilJet II, and Exxon 2380 Oils, are completely non-corrosive, and contain no paraffin wax...
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 31 Oct 2011 2:07 pm    
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Mickey Adams wrote:
The newer synthetic MobilJet II, and Exxon 2380 Oils, are completely non-corrosive, and contain no paraffin wax...


Cool!! Synthetic oils catch up to the 1920s!!
http://scripophily.stores.yahoo.net/inrecobetema.html

(My maternal grandfather was F. X. Govers that figured out how to remove paraffin from lube oil. I didn't know that it was still the method. I've never even gotten a free court of Havoline.

I usually use Remoil.
I'm thinking of trying the Triflow.
My mechanic and local gun guy said he'd probably use Marvel Mystery oil. It doesn't come in an application-friendly bottle, though.
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