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Topic: Rodding problem |
Willis Vanderberg
From:
Petoskey Mi
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Posted 13 Sep 2006 4:15 am |
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I noticed on the last steel I acquired the pedals action didn't feel right and the knee levers were out of whack. So I flipped the guitar over and it was unbelievable what had taken place on the underside.
I had to reposition rods in both the changer and the bell cranks. A total of twelve rods were in the wrong holes at one end or both. Is this unusual ? I never really checked this before. After repositioning, with the manufacturers rodding chart and some minor tweaking this guitar plays like a dream.
I highly recommend you get a rodding chart for your guitar and check it out. It will also give you a better understanding of how the mechanism operates.
Bud
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Ray Minich
From:
Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
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Posted 13 Sep 2006 6:29 am
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More rods than room thru the bell cranks...
Maybe if I bend this one a little bit...
Move that one over there...
Oh, crud...
A little springy is good, I guess...[This message was edited by Ray Minich on 13 September 2006 at 07:30 AM.] |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 13 Sep 2006 7:25 am
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| Do manufacturers really offer rodding charts? I've never heard of it before, though I've sometimes wanted to know what manufacturers recommend as to which holes at each end to use for a given pull or set of pulls. It doesn't seem as though there's any "right" answer, since there are various factors to consider: timing pulls (or pushes) to work simultaneously, and the player's preferences for ease/stiffness and length/shortness of action. Winnie Winston's article ("Basic Mechanics") in Steel Guitarist magazine (still, I think, available from the Forum) gives an excellent summary of the principles involved in the latter considerations, but information from the maker would be quite helpful for the timing question, depending on the specific design of their changer and bell cranks. Then again, the manufacturer might be out of business... [This message was edited by Brint Hannay on 13 September 2006 at 08:29 AM.] |
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Gareth Carthew
From:
West Sussex, UK
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 14 Sep 2006 2:02 am
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| My friend Don Sulesky bought a used D-10 Sho-Bud that needed a lot of restoration. After he got it cleaned up he rodded, based on what was originally on the guitar. It didn't really play well with that set up. I sent him the rodding for my D-10 Franklin, which is a triple raise, double lower like the Sho-Bud, and he used that to re rod the Sho-Bud. It worked well, in fact "too well" as the Sho-Bud now has a better pedal feel and action than my Franklin. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 14 Sep 2006 9:33 am
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If you ever get a guitar from Ed Fulawka, he includes a rodding chart. Every change you want to setup is included on the chart.  |
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John Poston
From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
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Posted 14 Sep 2006 10:05 am
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| GFI mailed me a rodding chart for the factory copedant. |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 15 Sep 2006 7:09 am
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Here was a rodding nightmare. This is a compact S12 with 7 & 7. This was a custom built steel so there was no rodding chart from the factory. I did it though, she plays good.
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Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording
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Willis Vanderberg
From:
Petoskey Mi
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Posted 15 Sep 2006 3:25 pm
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Hey Darvin:
that is one good looking horn. How does it play ? Universal or extended E 9th. ?
Old Bud |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 16 Sep 2006 8:33 am
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Willis, it plays great, but the string spacing is a little wider than normal and the pickup doesn't put out really well on the 1st and 12th strings. I need to make a custom pickup for it. The pedal spacing is also a little wider than most guitars so that took a little getting used to also.
I thought it would be a lightweight guitar, but after I got everything on it, it's a little heavier than my MSA Millenium D10.
I have a universal tuning on it. I haven't played a universal since about 1992, so thats taking some getting used to also. Its fun to play though.
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Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording
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