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Topic: Help: Rick Silver Hawaiian with tone control problem |
Paolo Conti
From:
France
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Posted 21 Nov 2017 9:37 am |
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Hello,
I've found in a shop in Europe a Rickenbacker Silver Hawaiian. According to the seller the guitar is in pretty good shape and sounds good, but the tone control knob is stuck.
Did any of you ever deal with this problem? And if so, is it easily repairable?
Thank you!
Paolo |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 21 Nov 2017 12:46 pm
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It's not "repairable". Stuck pots are shot - always.
Replacing it is a relatively simple but time-consuming job that requires removing the pickup for access. Any qualified guitar tech can do it. A replacement pot reduces collectable value a bit, but not a huge amount.
Pot valuea are easy to find on the web.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Paolo Conti
From:
France
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Posted 21 Nov 2017 2:06 pm
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Thanks a lot Jim.
Here is a picture of the pickup and knobs. The knobs seem not original...
Anyway, if it can be fixed by changing the pot I think I will buy that steel, I always wanted a Silver Hawaiian and they are pretty rare here in Europe. |
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Larry Carlson
From:
My Computer
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Posted 21 Nov 2017 2:43 pm
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I bought a 1939 Silver Hawaiian last year.
It's volume pot was stuck, would not budge.
I removed the pot and disassembled it. Not that difficult to do.
It was still frozen by the way.
I took the assembly and soaked it in WD40 for 3 days.
I then cleaned it, blew it off and dried it.
Then like magic it worked. Assembling it is a bit more of a fuss but it is back together, in the guitar and works perfectly.
I assume a tone pot would be the same.
I may have gotten lucky but it seemed to be the thing to do and it worked.
Or maybe I am just that darned good.... 
I think your black knob is original.
The white one is not.
_________________
I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying. |
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Paolo Conti
From:
France
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Posted 22 Nov 2017 1:34 pm
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Thank you Larry!
I ordered the instrument, so I look forward to see what happen when I try to fix it. |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 23 Nov 2017 6:12 pm
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I use the stuff called DeOxit...D5 It cleans the pots good from corrosion etc...
Comes in a small 5 oz spray can, & maybe larger sizes also... |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 23 Nov 2017 7:16 pm
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| Quote: |
| I took the assembly and soaked it in WD40 for 3 days. |
You got VERY lucky.
WD40 is on of the worst things to use on electronic equipment of ANy kind other than old auto distributor caps.. It is not designed as a fader clean/lube - it has abrasive materials that destroy most pots, so I'm very surprised it worked at all.
Save WD40 for garage door springs and use appropriate electronic cleaner lubricant on pots, faders, switches and other electronic equipment.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Blake Hawkins
From:
Florida
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Posted 23 Nov 2017 7:32 pm
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I have repaired many stuck pots using penetrating oil. I apply one drop of oil to the shaft and allow it to soak in. Sometimes I let it sit over night.
Then I replace the knob and carefully work the shaft
until it is free.
I've had no problem with the oil migrating to the
resistance element.
Once the shaft is free, I spray the element with
DeOxit. |
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