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Author Topic:  Wood
Chris Lucker

 

From:
Los Angeles, California USA
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 9:18 am    
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It also should be added that Wraparounds are the only Emmons with hollow necks. Add slightly microphonic pickups and you get a lot of overtones.

Other cast aluminum Emmons necks have ribs underneath. Wraparound necks have no ribs. Those mounting screws coming up from the underside of the cabinet had to hit the slim edge of the necks. That required hand fitting and transfer screws. See my comment above about when Emmons switched to using jigs -- atom came the new style necks with the easy to hit mounting screw points.

One of the quick ways you can quickly identify a fake Wraparound is how the necks are mounted. The pedals, cross shafts and bellcranks are usually a giveaway too.
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.
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David Mitchell

 

From:
Tyler, Texas
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 3:57 pm    
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I think the word stiff that I and others have used is the wrong word. Dry yes but not stiff. I say dry because you do not want green wood with sap running out of it. Wood can be factory dried or dried from age. It has to vibrate so it can't be made out of an anvil but moisture is no good. It may look dry but it may not be. Someone said "Try stringing up on asphalt." Well try stringing up a wet sponge.
I think we all are on the same page. Maybe. Lol!
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David Mitchell

 

From:
Tyler, Texas
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:28 pm    
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The only way to tell if a piece of wood is dry is just saw a piece off of it and if your fingers try to stick to the cutoff edge it isn't fully cured and dried. When you buy a piece of wood the showing edges are already air dried so they won't be sticky. What's inside is what counts. Old wood is highly favored by luthiers and for a reason.
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Fred Treece


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 2 Sep 2017 8:23 am    
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There are digital meters that register the moisture content in wood and other materials.

Reputable instrument builders store their wood in controlled environments even after it is fully "cured" (which does not mean 100% dry) before they start building. Also, if the instrument was built in relatively moist climate conditions and gets shipped to a relatively dry climate, it will react.

Steel guitar builders may not have to be quite as fastidious with wood as classical guitar or violin luthiers, but concern for stability, moisture content, and appearance is still warranted.
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David Mitchell

 

From:
Tyler, Texas
Post  Posted 2 Sep 2017 9:59 am    
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That's valuable information Fred. Thank you!
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Stephen Williams

 

From:
from Wales now in Berkeley,Ca, USA
Post  Posted 2 Sep 2017 2:20 pm    
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@ Jim Pittman et al.

I think you could mount a threaded rod underneath each the bottom cabinet side rails. Sort of post-tensioning. It would counteract the tendency of the deck to bow up under tension. You could even do a trial without damaging aor changing anything. just tighten the nuts on the rod, see if it holds a tune better. Slacken off a bit if it deadens the sound.

btw re aluminium necks. I bought some 1/8" channel for my neck and it deadened the sound when i laid it on the deck. Am thinking of a metal stud (used in building) as an alternative neck. It is much thinner.
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George Redmon


From:
Muskegon & Detroit Michigan.
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2017 10:13 pm    
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I found this explanation of different wood types by Kiesel (Carvin) guitars very informative when i recently purchased my new SH550.
https://www.kieselguitars.com/colorandwoodguide/
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