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Author Topic:  Sho-Bud Permanent D-8
Rich Sullivan


From:
Nelson, NH 03457
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 2:41 pm    
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I recently acquired this beautiful Sho-Bud Permanent D-8. Haven't done anything with it yet. Wondering if anyone would suggest what they think the copedants for each neck may have been, based on what is visible in the photos. Also, I can't find a serial number. Any ideas on its year of manufacture?

















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Russell Adkins

 

From:
Louisiana, USA
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:44 pm    
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now that enterest me
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 4:54 pm    
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That's a beautiful guitar! Whoa!
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Stan Schober


From:
Cahokia, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 6:41 pm    
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Oh, You LUCKY SON OF A GUN.
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Emmons S-8 P/P,DeArmond 40. Slowly drifting back towards sanity.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2017 9:17 pm    
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It will sound as amazing as this D-8 Bud played by Don Helms:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwYcS8MWuR4

Whoa! Whoa! Very Happy
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Jussi Huhtakangas

 

From:
Helsinki, Finland
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 1:41 am    
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Early Buds didn't have any serial #s. The decal says "Madison, Tennessee" right? If so, pre- 64, but since it appears to have PU's made by the Statosphere company, I'd say late 50's, probably a -58 or so. Judging by the screw holes underneath, someone has tinkered with the original set up and it's very possible that it originally had E9 on the inside neck, that's what mine had ( although it was a D9 but other than that very similar)Good set up would be E9 without chromatics and A,B and C pedals and C6 with pedals 5, 6 and 7 of the standard set up.
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Rich Sullivan


From:
Nelson, NH 03457
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 6:46 am    
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Thanks, Jussi, for the good info.
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Aaron Jennings


From:
Montana, USA
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 2:41 pm    
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Congratulations! I have a very similar guitar and love it dearly. Here is what Buddy Emmons had to say about using a D8, taken from the 'Ask Buddy' column the site linked below. This is what I started with. YMMV.

Quote:
From: Buddy
Date: 22 Apr 2002
Time: 13:25:34
Comments
To cover most of today's styles you would have to tune your guitar to F#, D#, G#, E, B, G#, F#, and E. One option would be to tune the 7th and 8th (F# and E) to E and D and pull them up to F# and E with a knee lever. I would tune the C6th E, C, A, G, E, C, A, F. From there, look at the many tuning charts of professional players posted on the Forum and select a pedal and knee arrangement from a player that best suits your taste. You'll have four levers for E9th and two for C6 if your guitar is capable of hooking knee levers to both tunings. If not, you'll either have to choose between E9th and C6th on at least two levers or have the lever linkage modified to accommodate both necks.


( from
http://www.buddyemmons.com/_board/0000037b.htm )

There are great resources on the steel guitar builders forum on how to add a mechanism that raises and lowers the same string (such as on popular knee levers) should you decide to add some.

Todd Clinesmith probably has some appropriate NOS pots that should be an appropriate replacement if yours are shot or scratchy.
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Aaron Jennings


From:
Montana, USA
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 2:46 pm    
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Also, small detail but I notoced the design on the last fret of our fretboards is different! Your card suits are offset and mine are parallel!


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Chris Scruggs

 

From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 3:38 pm    
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The original E9 pedal tuning used by Bud Isaacs on Slowly in 1953 was:

E
B.....C#.....pedal
G.....A.......one
F
D.......E........pedal
B.......C#......two
G.......A
E

Jimmy Day added the dedicated E string in the middle of the tuning, and Jimmy and Buddy split the pedals in the mid-late fifties:

E
B.......pedal one
G#......pedal two
F
E
D
B.......pedal one
G#.......pedal two

(Of course if you play "Jimmy Day" style, you would swap these two pedals around so that they are reverse from the "Buddy Emmons" set up. Also, if you are a fan of Western swing E13 type playing, you could only have the split pedals operate the higher B and G# and then press the B to C# pedal and get all those hot Speedy West/Joaquin Murphy type voicings. If you went that route, you could also tune the lowest string to E for the "Boot Heel Drag" type low string licks...)

Most guys today would want to have the "Ralph Mooney" string on there, which became popular starting in 1959:

G#......pedal two
E
B........pedal one
G#.....pedal two
F
E
D
B.......pedal one

And of course, as Buddy said above, to get most of today's sounds you would want to use strings one through eight of the modern tuning, but then again, if you are wanting to play a Permenant D-8 from the fifties, you might be chasing the older sounds and not the newer ones. I'd go with either the Bud Isaacs tuning or the early "split pedal" set up with e as the highest string, myself. 😉

Good luck with whatever you do, and that's a pretty guitar!

~Chris Scruggs~
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Chris Scruggs

 

From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 8 Sep 2017 3:42 pm    
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And for the C6 neck, I'd recommend:

E
C
A
G
E
C
A
G or F

You could either keep it as a straight non pedal neck or apply the typical C6 pedal changes, minus the pedal that raises both A strings to B. Since you will have limited space on the original pedal rack, that pedal is a little redundant if you have a pedal raising both A and C a full tone. Some people would want a high G string, but if you want a high fifth, just play your E9 neck with both pedals down and it's A6, which has a high fifth.
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