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Topic: Please help me get this Sho-Bud Permanent (?) working again! |
Clay Resnick
From:
Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 7:34 am |
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Years ago I bought the gutted pedal steel that's pictured. It has what I take to be Sho-Bud elements: gumby keyhead, ducktail, birdseye maple, and what I think is a permanent changer. There's a rail along the front underside that looks like there were 8 pedals. Maybe it was a prototype? Or a modded Maverick?
At any rate, I would like to get it working again, so any ideas about how to approach this would be very welcome. I'm open to a McGyver/hardware-store solution, but compatible pedals/levers would be ideal.
I was thinking of making it a 6-string 2x2 or similar, as it might be unrealistic to find compatible 3x4 hardware floating around out there. Thanks very much for any tips you guys can give me.
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Rick Abbott
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 5:29 pm
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I'm not an expert. In fact I know too little, but I think you have a really interesting steel. Hold out for advice from Chris Lucker especially, and several others. A 6-string is not the best way to go here, it may be a historic find? Be patient if you can. Someone can help you to take this where it can go. I, for one, am stunned to see such a thing. I'd love to find a guitar like it to make an early-country tone machine out of. It's probably from the late 1950's...not a Maverick.
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35 |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 5:42 pm
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Yeah, that's a Perm. Or a Permaclone.
On the plus side, as long as it's complete, clean, and properly done, there's no market premium for original Bud parts.
If you want to do the work yourself, you can use push-pull, Marlen, Simmons or maybe even GFI student model or Stage One parts. I'd probably decide on one, so it looks intentional.
If you don't want to do the job, I'd call Bob Simmons or Justin Griffith.
If I had time and machinery, I'd volunteer. But I have neither.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 9:49 pm
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I am sorry to say that the parts don't look right. The cabinet end internal endplates are not cabinet-wide. They are just leg sockets in the corners. Not early Sho-bud. The pickup could be right and the tail piece and keyheads. Looks like parts taken from a double.
No cast aluminum pedal rack?
The woodwork does not seem right either. You have a 45 degree joint in front and a butt joint in back. I am referring to the joint on the neck also, if it was an early Permanent, you would have no rear apron. Your guitar needs one to support the floating leg sockets. A Permanent would have a full width internal endplate so you would not need the maple rear apron to support the rear leg socket.
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 9:59 pm
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So it's a Faux-Bud. It'd still make a cool pull-release guitar
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 2 Sep 2017 10:13 pm
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Yes it would, but you run into the problem of an original cast Permanent Sho-Bud pedal rack. Normal pedal racks do not fit cabinet end guitars, because with the sockets inside the cabinet instead of integrated into external end plates, you have a shorter leg-to-leg distance.
I have the correct pedals, in my Sho-Bud pedal pile. They need the cast retainer clips. But no more cabinet end pedal racks. I do have a set of internal Permanent cabinet endplates, but they are for a double and you would need to cut and weld. And you would still have the pedal rack issue.
You can fabricate an extruded aluminum pedal rack or even use a Wright pedal rack, but it will be a parts guitar.
See Lane's recommendation. Just get any parts to get it running. Or cut your losses and make a non pedal.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Bob Muller
From:
Oregon, USA
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Posted 5 Sep 2017 11:35 pm
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| This looks like it was a D-10 cut down to a S-10, that could account for the cabinet joints that don't match. There appear to be mounting holes for the 2nd key head, and holes that would have mounted the C6 cross shafts. All of the ones that I have seen have the rear apron mounted below the rear deck, or none at all. |
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Clay Resnick
From:
Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2017 4:34 pm
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| Thanks so much for all the responses. I hope you don't mind if I PM a few of you with questions. This is going to be a journey for yours truly and the guidance you guys offer is invaluable. |
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Johnie King
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 5 Oct 2021 7:57 am
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| God history on the Sho Buds |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 6 Oct 2021 8:29 pm
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Looks like someone's dream of a pedal steel guitar about late 1960's early 70's era. It would take some work and material to make it into a simple 3 pedal steel.
If you seriously want to learn to play pedal steel it would be a long time and a lot of work to a pedal steel before you could actually play it.
Yes I am guilty, Here is my 1970 dream of a steel guitar. Got the E 9th neck to 3 pedals and played it for a while and learned a lot. Then I bought and MSA S10 with 4 pedals and 4 knee levers. Then I could get serious on Pedal steel.
Here is a picture of my 1970 dream.
I was lucky a small local foundry had patterns for Key Head , End Plates, Pedal Bar and pedals. I had to cast the Changer/Pickup Mounting Bracket, The foundry casting flexed and would not tune. |
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