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Topic: Sho-Bud Pro1 Rebuild? |
Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 12 Jul 2017 6:53 am |
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As far as model/configuration timelines, this is what I tell my customers "There are NO rules with a Sho~Bud!". If a customer wanted something specific and they had the parts, they built it regardless of what the then current model build consisted of. That's why you see a 1976 guitar with 2 hole pulls when all of the then current models were using the die cast hardware.
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"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
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Posted 12 Jul 2017 6:54 am
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Damir, I think the terminology can be confusing. When we say you do the "tuning" at the changer, we mean we take the wrench and turn the rod ends at the changer.
The actual "tuning", meaning the physical screw adjustment, happens at the barrel.
The main difference is where the screw movement occurs. In a nylon tuning system the rods are fixed with a set screw at the pullers, and the nylon end pieces screw in and out at the changer. The ends of the rods are threaded, and the nylon ends have male ends tuned by a wrench that is female.
With the barrels, the end of the rod are fixed with a female hex end and is tuned with an Allen wrench. |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 12 Jul 2017 8:23 am
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It's sure hard to describe the barrel tuning function in words! If I didn't know from seeing it myself I probably would be struggling to understand the descriptions here, well said though they are.
I've always wondered how the heck the system was devised. Did someone (Shot?) have to invent the barrels and have them special-manufactured for the specific pedal steel application, or did the barrels already exist in some other mechanical application?
I didn't know Lloyd's guitar was updated to nylon tuners either. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 12 Jul 2017 8:26 am
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I drew on Sven's pic to show what goes on on the 5th string.
The female ends of the barrels attach firmly to the rod at the points in red.
Press the A pedal and use your tuning wrench in the bit at the changer (that's what the yellow arrow-like thing is pointing at) and the male end of the barrel at the blue dot goes in and out to tune the change.
Now, release the A pedal, press the C pedal, and the barrel under the green dot will screw in and out as you turn the 5th string raise rod.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
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Posted 12 Jul 2017 10:09 am
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One of the cooler things you can do with the barrel system - racks and 2 holers - is attach a barrel for a micro pull.
Ex: Your 6th string G# is usually tuned a bit flat to be in tune as the third in your no pedals position.
When you go to your A pedal/F lever combination, that 6th string is now the 5th, and will sound flat & out of tune. So, you can attach a barrel on the 6th string raise rod at the F lever pull. (You may need a rod that’s long enough to reach wherever that pull is, but that’s no big deal.) You’re now able to microtune the 6th string to raise just a hair to true up the 5th in that position. It’s such a small amount of pull, and happens right at the end of the F lever’s travel that you’ll never feel it.
But you’ll sure hear it…
As far as the inability to time the pulls as well as on a modern gtr, that never bothered me in actual playing situations. YMMV, though… |
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Craig A Davidson
From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
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Posted 13 Jul 2017 7:34 am
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| One of the best Sho-Buds I ever owned was a round front Pro-2 with the barrels and pullers. I never noticed a timing issue on pulls and the guitar stayed in tune. My advice would be that if you can tune it up then play it for sometime before you start to tear it apart. Not every guitar with age has to be rebuilt before it can be used. |
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