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Post new topic Tune ups/General Wear
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Author Topic:  Tune ups/General Wear
Nathan Burns

 

From:
Alberta, Canada
Post  Posted 16 Jun 2017 1:23 pm    
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Hi guys,

Something I've noticed about a lot of steel players on here is the fact that they are fairly handy and quite mechanically inclined by nature. Although I have a general understanding of the working of my pedal steel, I've never been much of a tinkerer.

I learned on an old MSA Classic S10, which was old, but a great guitar. Stayed in tune, never had any issues. After playing for a couple years I recently sold it and upgraded to a Mullen G2 SD10. I love it. Very smooth. Also I barely have to tune the thing (mind you I haven't gigged it yet). I've changed the strings once and applied a small amount of light oil to the changer, pedal ball points and a few other places recommended on the Mullen site.

My question is this. With the pedal steel have moving steel parts and metal to metal contact I can't help but think there will be general wear over the years. Asides, from general maintenance such as lubricating, do any of you send your guitars for tuneups or recalibrations of any sort? Are there parts that just wear out first like brakes on a car? If so, what kind of time frame would you follow? This question would probably be geared to someone who has kept one guitar for an extended period of time. Obviously how much you play would be a determining factor. I play a couple hours every day on average. I would just like to ensure I keep my steel playing as best it can for as long as possible. Thoughts?

Also if you leave it alone, aside from general maintenance, until something needs fixing please let me know.
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Mullen G2 through Fender Steel King

Rayco 6 string curly maple reso

Petingill Southern Belle through Fender 68 Princeton Reverb reissue.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 16 Jun 2017 2:02 pm    
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The only real wear point is the place on the bottom of the aluminum finger where the steel scissor rides.
But it's rarely a real concern.
If I were to build a guitar, I think I'd put a nylon or Delrin blade cover there.
Just the occasional lube.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jun 2017 9:23 pm    
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Lane,
Can you elaborate? Not sure what you're saying.
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:21 am    
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The place circled in green is the wear point. The piece above it is aluminum, while the two long pieces of the bottom two thirds are steel

When you lube the guitar, also lubricate the rivet upon which the scissors pivot, underneath the red dot

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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 3:56 am    
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I agree with Lane on this wear point. All of my guitars eventually develop grooves on the top of the changer fingers where the string crosses. I would be great to have user replaceable changer finger top caps!
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Nathan Burns

 

From:
Alberta, Canada
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 7:38 am     Thanks for the input
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Okay. I was thinking areas like where the pedal rods connect to their pull points, wear on return springs over the years, etc. Perhaps I'm underestimating the strength of the metals they are made of. So generally tune ups are not a regular things unless something is wrong I'm gathering.
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Mullen G2 through Fender Steel King

Rayco 6 string curly maple reso

Petingill Southern Belle through Fender 68 Princeton Reverb reissue.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 8:59 am    
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Both of them only need attention when they show abnormal symptoms.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 9:21 am    
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Greg,
ZB had replaceable caps on their fingers.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 12:57 pm    
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Erv Niehaus wrote:
Greg,
ZB had replaceable caps on their fingers.


I agree that all builders should have done this.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:20 pm    
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Hmmm...

Shouldn't be too difficult for us mechanical guys to fashion finger caps to place under the strings. Heck, I wonder how thin cut strips of aluminum may work? Or better yet, I suppose, thin strips of cut stainless?

Would "hang on" pieces like that dampen the sound/tone too much?
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Sierra Crown D-10
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Nathan Burns

 

From:
Alberta, Canada
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:24 pm     Grooves on fingers
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Can I ask has the groove wear on your changer fingers affected your tone or playability?
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Mullen G2 through Fender Steel King

Rayco 6 string curly maple reso

Petingill Southern Belle through Fender 68 Princeton Reverb reissue.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:35 pm    
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Richard Sinkler wrote:
Erv Niehaus wrote:
Greg,
ZB had replaceable caps on their fingers.


I agree that all builders should have done this.


How did that sound? It seems that a separate cap under the string, unless fastened extremely rigidly, would present a lower effective mass to the vibrating string. The string would lose energy faster. i.e. less sustain.
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:38 pm    
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Quote:


How did that sound? It seems that a separate cap under the string, unless fastened extremely rigidly, would present a lower effective mass to the vibrating string. The string would lose energy faster. i.e. less sustain.


I'm going to try this on my Williams, as it is most readily available at the moment. Might take a few days to get it all together, but I will report back with my personal experience.
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Sierra Crown D-10
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 1:39 pm    
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Earnest,
Why don't you do a poll and ask ZB owners how they think their guitars sound?
ZBs rank right up there with the BEST sounding pedal steels ever built.
The cap fits very securely over the finger and it is construction for very hard material, not aluminum.
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John De Maille


From:
On a Mountain in Upstate Halcottsville, N.Y.
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 4:29 pm    
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I played an S-11 Rus-Ler for 26 years and never had a problem with it. It has 5+4 and is a heavy guitar. It also has the changeable tops on the changer, like ZB's have. You can just reverse them if you're having a problem with string wear, but, I never had to. I would always put some light weight oil, sparingly, on it when I changed strings. It does need a thorough cleaning after all these years, but, it still plays the same and sounds just as good as the day I got it new.
I've been playing a U-12 ZumSteel now for 13 years and I do the same thing with lubrication. I've never had a problem or a breakdown with it either.
All you really have to do is simple, light lube on all the moving parts without over doing it. Things can get messy and collect a lot of dust if you overdo it.
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Greg Lambert

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2017 6:03 pm    
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Been playing my Derby D10 over 20 years and havent noticed any wear yet. Or at least if there is wear it hasnt affected the tone or play ability. I do lub it every now and then.

I have replaced several of the tuner keys. Guess that would count as wore out parts.
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