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Topic: Is this a real Sho-Bud? |
Aaron Shively
From:
California, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 8:23 am |
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Guys, I just picked up this guitar, and wanted to know more about it. Any Sho-Bud experts out there??
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Aaron Shively
From:
California, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 8:41 am
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 8:44 am
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No expert here, but that's a Sho-Bud Baldwin Crossover. Originally a D10 and had a lever mechanism that switched the pedals from one neck to the other.
That has all been removed along with the rear neck and a pad placed there.
I had one of these years ago. It had 6 pedals and 1 knee lever. |
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Rick Abbott
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 9:06 am
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Definitely a Sho~Bud Crossover with most of the undercarriage removed. Probably a 1967. I have #7035 and it is a late 1966. The wood "tail" on yours also points to pre-1968 when they changed to the more modern look.
If you make the knee lever an E to F raise you'll be able to get a lot of modern stuff out of it. Also, having the C neck gone you could probably add some knee levers.
That should be a great sounding steel!!!
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35 |
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Aaron Shively
From:
California, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 9:47 am
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Wow, cool! Thanks for the info, guys. This guitar is built like a tank; the frame spears to be made of forged steel. The pedals and knee lever are super smooth as well. Impressive for a 50 year old guitar!
One question: how do I tune the pedals and lever? Looks like a flat head screw driver might work? |
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Rick Abbott
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 11:07 am
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So, first you tune all the open strings to pitch. Next, you press the A and B pedals. Notice that the 10-6-5-3 strings all change...look at the end-plate and see the screws moving in and out. While holding the pedals down turn the screws to tune each individual note, If the screw turns and the pitch does not change then you need to reach under and feel the brass barrel that is moving and hold the front part of the barrel (the edge against the rack) and turn it. This will either shorten or lengthen the barrel. Press the pedals and check the tuning. Do this for all the changes. It's 1 raise and 1 lower, so, you can make your E lower an E raise by moving the rods from the lower half of the changer to the raise. Turn the guitar over in its case and move the pedals and lever to see just how it all works. Rack and barrel is really, really simple...once you know what's happening. I hope this is helpful. If not let us know, we're here to help!
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35 |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Spicewood TX 78669
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Posted 11 Jun 2017 6:35 pm
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It would take a bit of coin for the parts, but 3 levers could be added to that guitar and though heavy, would be an excellent SD-10 steel.
The frame is an aluminum/magnesium alloy. The wood is hard rock maple.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Larry Bressington
From:
Nebraska
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Posted 14 Jun 2017 7:02 pm
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That's a nice interesting peice of history there, I'd definitely do her up and put some levers on her, and have her as home guitar.
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A.K.A Chappy. |
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Will Houston
From:
Tempe, Az
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Posted 14 Jun 2017 8:45 pm
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| Nice score man |
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Ga McDonnell
From:
N GA, USA
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Posted 15 Jun 2017 6:04 am
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Nobody has ever published any figures on just how much removing the C6 neck and apparatus would actually save on the weight of a Crossover. It’s already excessively heavy so the difference wouldn’t probably be too significant.
The original 6 pedals, one knee provide enough basic hardware to make a 3 pedal, 4 knee setup either on one neck or both (D10 or SD10). I removed the crossover feature and set mine up with 3 pedals, 4 knees, with all pedals and levers working full time on both necks. Works ok and still not too much pedal or lever resistance. |
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Craig A Davidson
From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
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Posted 15 Jun 2017 2:24 pm
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| Aaron Shively wrote: |
One question: how do I tune the pedals and lever? Looks like a flat head screw driver might work? |
Yes Aaron a flat screwdriver works. |
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Rick Abbott
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 15 Jun 2017 6:22 pm
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Ha Ha! Craig is right...no one else actually answered that.
My 1966 Crossover has slot-head end-plate tuners. They are knurled and I can use my fingers or a blade screw driver. Most of the "newer" ones need a hex wrench, like my 1970 Professional. Same one up/one down changer, different end-plate screws.
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Wakarusa 5e3 clone
1953 Stromberg-Carlson AU-35 |
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