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Topic: Changer |
Ron Mishler
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 26 May 2017 12:49 pm |
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Does anyone use Electrical Motor Cleaner, CRC brand to clean their Changer?
And what about Teflon or Graphite lubrication like Slick 51? Thanks for your help Ronnie |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 26 May 2017 1:05 pm
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Never heard of Slick 51. Googling shows Tele pickups by that name. If Slick 50 makes something like Triflow (spray-on Teflon/PTFE in an evaporating carrier, I'd use it.
CRC would work as well as carb or brake cleaner. Most mechanics recommend a complete teardown for cleaning, but the spray cleaners can buy some time.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 26 May 2017 1:48 pm
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I tried cleaning the changers in my Franklin, by "flushing" them with Naptha. It didn't work and I finally had to remove the changer and clean everything right.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 28 May 2017 6:27 pm
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DO NOT USE CRC or most other electric motor cleaners on your guitar! That one (and most others) contain Perchlorethelyne, which will destroy Formica, most plastics, rubber and finishes - many in seconds.
Flushing with naphtha works great, but if the guitar has been in use for quite a while and oiled it's hard to do with it mounted in the guitar. Gunk just gets too caked up. I only recommend naphtha on guitars (of any kind) because it doesn't harm finishes, plastic, most types of "rubber" (usually plastics, really) or Formica.
Probably the most "lube-intensive" guitars are the old cable-pull Fenders I play, with no bearings and pairs of metal plates rubbing against each others; ZB's are also challenging with big sliding plates. On both I remove all oils and use only dry Teflon lube - not the mineral (or other oil) types.
Once a guitar is cleaned dry Teflon (aka PTFE) usually only needs to be redone sporadically. In addition to its lube qualities, unlike oils dry Teflon doesn't attract dirt, hair, dust and doesn't break down.
Oils all break down, and they all attract contaminants - they're "dirt magnets". As things build up the oil is thickened into a sludge. Combine it with dust and other contaminants and it's actually counter-productive, slowing things down.
Oils - really only light-viscosity oils like sewing machine oil - can work well if they're cleaned out periodically, but both steels and mechanical equipment I've worked with that have had oils left in mechanisms long-term are usually not operating their best. Most required thorough cleaning to work properly.
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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