How to tighten the throw of a Goodrich L120?

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

I just received the Goodrich L120, haven't had a chance to plug it in yet. Just testing it out here on the floor, and I already notice an issue. It has the same "feel" as the Dunlop Hi Gain pedal that I own.

It is so smooth, no resistance, that it almost collapses to the floor under its' own weight. My Ernie Ball pedal, in contrast, has a very stiff throw, which is perfect for me.

Is there a way to tighten the throw of the Goodrich? I sure do not see any easy way to get into it to tighten anything, and the "axle" appear to be rivets of some sort, flat head, not removable.
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Bill Ferguson · From: Milton, FL USA

Tim, remove the 4 screws that hold the bottom plate on.

There is a cutout at the "heel" end of the volume pedal.
Look inside and make sure that the spring is connected at both ends. If not, that is your problem.

You did not say if you bought a new or used pedal. If it is used and the spring IS connected, it could be fatigued. Take it out and cut off a couple of rounds and reinstall. You need a pair of angled needle nose pliers to do this.

Here is a picture of the spring installed:

I hope this helps.

Bill
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AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter.

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the tips. This is a brand new pedal. I tightened the set screw but that isn't doing much at all. I'm afraid to make it any tighter for fear of stripping the threads.

It is too fatiguing to play and constantly apply reverse foot pressure to hold it up.

Any other ideas, guys?
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Joe Ribaudo · From: New Jersey, USA

I went out and bought a compression spring (a few of them actually) with the intention of mounting it between the base of the pedal and the moving part of the pedal. The plan was to have just enough upwards pressure to compensate for the weight of my foot.
After a few temporary mock up attempts I left making it permanent for another day when I had an afternoon to kill. It's been about a year and I never got around to it but, for some reason it's a non-issue now. I just got used to it.

Necessity may be the mother of invention, but laziness is the broodmare of acclimation.
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Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

I'm not sure what to do with it yet...I called Goodrich today, but I guess everyone is on holiday out there, lol.

The tension spring in the base of the pedal is mounted at an angle, which doesn't apply very much force to pull the pedal back.

For me, it's not a matter of getting used to it. My Dunlop is super smooth like this, and I tried using that one for awhile, and it results in shin pain for me, having to apply that reverse pressure.

The Ernie Ball is very comfortable, maybe I should just install the Goodrich pot in it and call it a day, lol.
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Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

The set screw doesn't have any effect, but it might play a rÃ´le in fixing your problem.
All it does is hold the axle. Back the set screw out, drive out the axle. Insert some felt washers between inner and outer halves, to give some resistance. Reinstall axle, tighten set screw.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jerry Jones · From: Franklin, Tenn.

That spring also applies pressure (friction) to a thrust washer separating the upper and lower half.
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Jerry Jones

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

EDIT - Never-mind! Got the axle moving. Boy, my brain has been out to lunch for about a week and has not returned, lol.
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Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

I have my doubts on shimming with washers, but I am going to attempt it. The real issue here, comparing it with the Ernie Ball, is that the EB pedal axle is in the middle of the pedal, and the Goodrich is too far back near the heel, already making the balance point at the wrong position.

Plus, the EB tension system is completely different. I really don't want to be a stick in the mud here, especially since these pedals are touted as being tops....but... "why Goodrich, why..."

Why design a floppy/no resistance pedal like this? I suppose it's just me; I have gotten used to the EB feel, and now it is uncomfortable to continually "ride" the pedal to keep it in position.

To me, it is sort of like a car with super sensitive steering, that you have to fight to keep on the road.
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Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Don't beat yourself up over this.

You don't have to use this pedal if it doesn't suit you. You know that of course, but there's not a thing wrong with the old Ernie Ball. Even with the 250K pot, you can adjust your eq's, use a buffer or a paramid eq. unit, add some Geo. L's cable etc. for a cleaner, brighter tone.

Sometimes though, a bit darker, mellower tone is desirable for certain situations anyhow. If the EB volume taper and action is what you feel comfortable with, there's no reason not to use it. Yes, you can install the newer 470K Goodrich pot in there too.

Most people shun the EB for pedal steel because of the travel action and that the off position puts more bend in your foot. That's the reason for the axle positioning on the Goodrich.

The Goodrich pedal is never going to feel like the EB.

I loaned one of my Goodrich vp's to a guitar player a few years ago. He hated the action. First time he stepped on it, it went wide open...said it was too sensitive.

I have one now and have used another Ernie Ball. I keep one in my steel seat or in my tote bag. I can do a few tweaks on the amp and fx and forget whether I'm using that pedal or one of my Goodrich 120's pretty quickly.

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Hi Jerry,

Well, guess I'll come off as a complainer here, lol. The EB pedal w/ the 250K pot does not roll the volume evenly, even when toggling that switch inside. Sounds ok, tone-wise, I guess, but the uneven volume swells is unacceptable.

The 80's EB pedal I had years ago was awesome - of course, we know that pot is no longer available.

I did order the pot that Tom Bradshaw sells & I plan on installing it in my current EB, so that will most likely work out, I suppose.

I'm looking at the Goodrich right now, thinking about what I can do to tighten it up, and I have a machinist friend that I am going to bring it to, to see if he has any suggestions.

Lane's idea of fiber washers will work I think, to some extent, but not sure how tight that will make it. The axle is plastic, and tightening down that set screw will chew into that in no time.

I'm curious; what pedal does Tommy, Paul, and Mike use? I suppose the pros use Telonics?

Does the Hilton or Telonics have the same loose action, or are they tighter like the Ernie Ball? Does anyone here know?
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Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Best of luck. Hope you find a workable solution.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I don't know about Mike, but Tommy said he uses a 120, Paul uses a passive pedal made by Paul Sr.
Mine seems to offer very little resistance, and I like that, although I do have to be careful when I lift off to double-foot, or else it moves either on departure or return.
Before you dismiss the rear-mounted pivot point, remember that one of the aims is to keep the knee/thigh height stable. Putting the pivot back closer to the heel means that the elevation of the heel, and therefore the height at the other end of the shin (the knee) rises and falls less.
I'd suggest getting used to it.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

Tim, the pedal is designed to operate smoothly. The axle is rotating in brass bushings. I believe you can get the balance you want by positioning your heel more to the back of the pedal. There is no adjustment to stiffen the action that I am aware of. The set screw only keeps the axle in place and should not be overtightened, which can cause a burr on it making it difficut to remove if needed. The spring is to keep the pedal in position if foot is lifted off of it. If you experiment with foot position and give yourself a little time to get accustomed to the pedal I think you will be fine with it.
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Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Hmmm...no brass bushings here, Jerry.

My pedal features a plastic axle mounted in the drilled metal.

I can't get used to the "free floating" feel at all, lol, or maybe I just don't want to 'cause I'm so picky. Like you mentioned, Lane, when stepping on/off the pedal, or even using the right knees, it's hard for me to keep it stable.

I do see a way to remedy it, though. I can use the washer fix as Lane mentioned, and replace the axle with a bolt & lock nut. That way, I can tighten it as I need to and achieve the tension that I want. A hack fix all the way, lol.

The question is, do I really want to do that, or send it back for a refund & get an $80 EB & stick a $30 470K pot in it, giving me what I'm really looking for anyway, and the EB already has the proper tension for me.

I'm a hard guy to please, just ask my wife, lol....

Mr. Green

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Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

Your goodrich pedal should not drop when your foot is off it. It is out of adjustment. Should be a very simple fix.

My next advice comes from Billy Cooper when I was starting out:

" If you spent the time you spend under the steel on top of the steel you would be a better player by now."

That was the best single piece of advice I ever got.
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Bob

kevin ryan · From: San Marcos, California

Tim.. Kevin from Goodrich here, Not sure what's going on with this pedal but I will be in the shop today. Email me your address to goodrichvp@gmail.com.. I'm sure I have it but email anyways and I will send you a pre paid shipping label to ship that pedal back and I will get you a new one off today.. Sorry about the trouble.. Kevin

Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

Bryant Edwards · From: Vancouver, WA

I briefly used a Dunlop volume pedal when I started playing steel, not knowing the difference between it versus volume pedals meant for steel. I picked up an L120 and found it much smoother and softer (not to mention kept my knees from hitting the bottom of the guitar). Having the axel further back towards the heel as well as a softer feel helped me get rid of my "pumping" habit, along with cranking the amp louder, and practice, of course.

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

I just wanted to follow up. I didn't mean to come across as sounding harsh, but reading back through, I feel that maybe I have. For my tastes though, this pedal is just not for me, that's all. From years of playing that stiff EB pedal, this one is uncomfortable, even painful to constantly apply pressure to hold the pedal in position.

I received a very nice note from the company, offering to take it back and they would adjust it as necessary. That was a very nice gesture, as in todays' world, so many companies could care less.

Goodrich is a top notch company and will stand behind their products. Kudos to them!
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David Nugent · From: Gum Spring, Va.

Tim..Did not notice a mention of which style EB pedal that you are using. If one of the newer style with the front mounted jacks and tuner out feature, this may be of interest. There is a modification named the 'JHS Mod' that adds a buffered circuit to the tuner out. According to what is written; having the tuner out wired directly into the signal path seriously compromises the overall clean tone, even without a tuner plugged in. The mod evidently is designed to eliminate this problem...FWIW: I was fortunate enough to obtain a vintage model for use as a backup pedal ("Made in USA" label, now that is vintage!)with the side mounted jacks and no tuner out function.

Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Hi David,

Thanks for that info. I did come across that mod in the research I did, too. I may try it at some point. Mine is the newer style with the tuner jacks, yes.
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Tim Russell · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Update -

I am responsible for return ship charges of $16 to the retailer if I want to send it back...

So after consideration, I have decided to "Frankenmod" the pedal. EVH did it to expensive Strats, so I don't see the harm here.

I am going to shim it with washers as Lane mentioned, and replace the axle with a bolt & lock nut. That way, I can tighten it as I need to and achieve the tension that I want.

As stated earlier, a hack fix all the way, lol. If anyone has a better idea, please share soon, as I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow for a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt to get this project underway.
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Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Cast aluminum can be fragile.
And where in Pennsylvania are you? I can ship at 75% off if you're on my route (in Pennsylvania, that means Interstate 70).
You might also look into whether USPS has one of their flat rate boxes that it'll fit in.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Bill Ferguson · From: Milton, FL USA

Tim,
If I read correctly, Kevin Ryan (Goodrich) offered to replace your volume pedal with a new one at no charge for the pedal or for shipping, either way.
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AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter.

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