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Topic: Looking for a codepent |
Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 4 Mar 2017 8:43 pm |
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I have a Sho Bud that has been modified and not sure what model it is as I have not been able to find the serial number, still looking. I will send some pictures, top-side and under carriage, but what I need most is tuning to the levers.
This steel has four (4) pedals, one that has the rods taken out and it sets before the “A†pedal. Not sure if it pulls or pushes 5 & 10 (B’s) not sure. Will get back to this later when I get it installed, if I can figure it out.
The levers. There are four (4) installed and a fifth which I think is the “V†is not installed and looks like it pushes or pulls 1 (F#) and 7 (F#).
With what is installed would anyone know a good codepent I could use or what changes, if any, would you do and do I need the “Vâ€.
It has been sometime sense I’ve even touched a steel, 30+ yrs, but I’ve always loved the steel. I played in a country swing band for 5 yrs, early 80’s, but only back-up and that was on a Sho Bud 3/2. So look at me as new but with some basic knowledge.
Thanks in advance...
Ron |
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Jeff Mead
From:
London, England
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 1:05 am
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Levers F and D raise and lower your Es by a semitone - they are completely standard changes.
I'd guess that RKL lowers the Bs by a semitone (this change is often on a vertical lever and often only lowers the high B).
RKR would lower the 2nd string to D (some people lower it to C#, usually with a feel stop at D but don't know if that is possible on your guitar) and probaby the G# to F# (though have seen some people lower it to G)
I'd say the V raises the F# strings to G. Again, some people raise it to G# but usually if they do that they raise the 2nd string to E on the same lever. Raising it to G gives you a nice 7th with pedals down for a lot of the Mooney licks (such as the Swinging Doors intro).
The serial number might well be stamped into the wood and the medal frame on the underside at the tuner end. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 6:49 am
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You can move things around if you like.
For the "Zero pedal" (the left of the A pedal), I like raising 1 and 2 to G# and E.
The rest of it looks pretty normal.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Paul Wade
From:
mundelein,ill
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:01 am Looking for a codepent
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i would lower 5 and 10 a half step on your "V" lever
which lowering the B to Bb.. just my 2 cents
p.w |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:57 am
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Thanks guys.
At least I know where to start now.The two that had me stumped was the "V", not yet set up and the RKR (2&6)as I could not find anyone using these two. I'll get the pictures posted on what I have so your not having to visualize what I"m dealing with. I have other questions like the pick-up that is mounted, may change,and the crude way things were installed. Thanks again. Ron |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 8:51 am
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I'd add a half-stop to 2nd string drop, as the D and C# are both useful.
I've seen people who combine that with the 6th string drop to F# , I prefer to drop 2 and 9, and drop 6 with the same lever that raises 1 to G.
If you're a new player I'd leave it like it is.
It's very close to a normal copedent, with no strange changes.
I REGULARLY tell newbies "if your guitar is close to normal, learn to play it. Make changes after you have an idea of what you'll gain and know what you are about to give up."
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 9:27 am
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The vertical lever was almost certainly set to raise both F# strings to G. It was a very popular way to get a 7th chord with pedals A+B down.
You should move the rod on RKR from your 6th string to the 9th (D). That lever should lower your 2nd string D# to C# and the 9th string D to C#. Ideally, the 9th string would start moving when the 2nd string reaches D, providing extra tension for a "feel stop" on the 2nd string. (FWIW, I just lower my 2nd string to a solid D and don't bother with the C#, but I'm in the minority.)
Your RKL is probably set to lower both B's to A#. That's a very standard change. Most people today have it on the LKV, but there are advantages to RKL as it can be combined with the left knee levers.
_________________
-𝕓𝕆𝕓- (admin) - Robert P. Lee - Recordings - Breathe - D6th - Video |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 12:52 pm
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Thanks for all of the good advice guys.
Lane Gary your advise was learned the hard way on my very first steel. Now "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Working on some pictures.
Thanks again.
Ron |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 2:16 pm
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Ok here are the pictures I promised so give me all you got "I can take it". Any one know what type the pick-up is, last picture and maybe what model this is. Thanks
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:06 pm
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The end plates and neck look like an early Maverick, but it would have had a Gumby keyhead and it wouldn't have had the diamond inlay strips. It does look like there is still some Maverick-style black textured paint on the bottom of the end plates. Fret board is not Sho-Bud.
The changer and undercarriage are definitely not Sho-Bud, looks like a custom fab job, but by someone who knew what they were doing. The changer pillow blocks resemble the kind you can get from a hobby robotics supplier.
The pedals don't look Sho-Bud either. If they are, they're the old wide style that have been cut down.
The pickup btw is a George L's humbucker, perhaps a 10-1.
Last edited by Ian Worley on 5 Mar 2017 7:10 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:09 pm
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| b0b wrote: |
That doesn't look like any Sho~Bud I've ever seen.  |
Now you've got me worried not what I wanted to hear lol. What is it? |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:16 pm
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| Ian Worley wrote: |
The end plates and neck look like an early Maverick, but it would have had a Gumby keyhead and it wouldn't have had the diamond inlay strips. It does look like there is still some Maverick-style black textured paint on the bottom of the end plates. Fret board is not Sho-Bud.
I'm with you on the Mav
The changer and undercarriage are definitely not Sho-Bud, looks like a custom fab job, but by someone who knew what they were doing. The changer pillow blocks resemble the kind you can get from a hobby robotics supplier.
The pedals don't look Sho-Bud either. If they are, they're the old wide style that have been cut down.
The pickup btw is a George L's humbucker, perhaps a 10-1. |
I'm with you on the Maverick part. I can see where the in-lay tuning head was. Some one put some work into the change over. It was sold as modified and that is a 100% sure after I got it to look at. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:16 pm
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| Ron Paslay wrote: |
| ...so give me all you got "I can take it"... |
| Ron Paslay wrote: |
| ...Now you've got me worried not what I wanted to hear lol. What is it? |
Just because it's not a purebred Sho-Bud doesn't mean it's not a solid guitar. |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:25 pm
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Well I guess the only thing Sho Bud is the sticker but the sound is "Steel"and it is smooth.
Will have to think of a new name for it. I wish I could think of the name of the store I got it from in Nashville. I talked to the salesman who had a good story on it but I did not buy the story but did the steel. Glad I did not give much for it.
Thanks guys. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:33 pm
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The original Mavericks didn't have an inlay keyhead, they were regular Gumbys, along with raised wood necks. The recessed keyheads came later when they eliminated the raised neck and went to shelf paper finish.
If I am reading the picture correctly, you can see the remnants of the 1/4" jack hole in the bottom center of the changer end plate window, which would indicate to me that this is in fact a Maverick end plate. Perhaps the body too, with inlays added when it was refinished. The serial number would be stamped onto the underside of the keyhead end plate right against the top deck. If the body is ~Bud it will stamped there too.
Still looks like a decent guitar. You can call it a Faux~Bud! |
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:48 pm
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I agree. It looks like the body and end plates were originally a Sho-Bud Maverick. A new changer, keyhead, pickup and all of the undercarriage parts were added later. Quite an improvement!
I have an early Maverick that came with a gumby keyhead but no roller nut. Forum member Andy DePaule machined the the keyhead for me to add rollers (about 35 years ago!). I can imagine that the owner of your guitar had the same frustration and decided to replace the keyhead instead. The decision to swap in a decent all-pull changer would have been a no-brainer.
I'm curious about the legs. Do they screw into the end plates? Mine don't - they're just aluminum tubes that you drop in and tighten with a thumb screw.
_________________
-𝕓𝕆𝕓- (admin) - Robert P. Lee - Recordings - Breathe - D6th - Video |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 7:50 pm
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| Ian Worley wrote: |
The original Mavericks didn't have an inlay keyhead, they were regular Gumbys, along with raised wood necks. The recessed keyheads came later when they eliminated the raised neck and went to shelf paper finish.
If I am reading the picture correctly, you can see the remnants of the 1/4" jack hole in the bottom center of the changer end plate window, which would indicate to me that this is in fact a Maverick end plate. Perhaps the body too, with inlays added when it was refinished. The serial number would be stamped onto the underside of the keyhead end plate right against the top deck. If the body is ~Bud it will stamped there too.
Still looks like a decent guitar. You can call it a Faux~Bud! |
Thanks. I like the name you handed out. Going to have to look closer at this. Thanks for your time. |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 8:07 pm
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| b0b wrote: |
I agree. It looks like the body and end plates were originally a Sho-Bud Maverick. A new changer, keyhead, pickup and all of the undercarriage parts were added later. Quite an improvement!
I have an early Maverick that came with a gumby keyhead but no roller nut. Forum member Andy DePaule machined the the keyhead for me to add rollers (about 35 years ago!). I can imagine that the owner of your guitar had the same frustration and decided to replace the keyhead instead. The decision to swap in a decent all-pull changer would have been a no-brainer.
I'm curious about the legs. Do they screw into the end plates? Mine don't - they're just aluminum tubes that you drop in and tighten with a thumb screw. |
The legs do screw in. It is an easy set-up but weights a ton. All of the adjustments are simple but crude but effective. Thanks for you input. |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 8:18 pm
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| The only numbers I can see is 1-A-4. Where the keyhead front two screws are is covering or has been drilled for them apparently took out some of the numbers and all I can make out is 39. B0b. the legs I think may have been like your at one time has the holes are there for the thumb screws but has been tapped for threaded legs. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 10:02 pm
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The 1-A-4 is the casting number from the foundry. The serial number is the other one, they punch those in at assembly. It was probably a four digit number, can you tell what positions the 3 and 9 are?
I'm actually in the process of building a hotrod Maverick myself using the endplate in the pic. I'll post some pics on the forum when it's done. I built a custom body out of birdseye that I planed down to 1/2". It will have a gumby keyhead and a Pro III aluminum neck with a 3/2 changer. I pocketed the back of the neck a little more on the mill to lighten it up some. The body is ready for lacquer but I want to wait for some warmer weather. I still need to fabricate all the undercarriage parts too. Too many projects!
I made a custom logo decal for it though:
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 10:10 pm
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| Like the logo. The 3 & 9 are togeather 39. There is a number in front but can't make it out as a screwhead covers most of it. Keep me posted on your progress. Thanks. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 10:16 pm
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| the first two numbers are the ones that would tell you when it was built, so I guess that shall forever remain a mystery |
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Ron Paslay
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2017 10:19 pm
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| Ian Worley wrote: |
| the first two numbers are the ones that would tell you when it was built, so I guess that shall forever remain a mystery |
oh well. Hate to tell my age either. I'll just think of it like fine wine "better with age". Thanks for you help. |
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