Changing a pull rod

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

Hi,
I'm changing a C pedal E string pull rod on my GFI student model. When I get the pull rod in place should I back off all the tuning nuts on that finger and start the tuning from scratch or should I just retune that change? There is no slack on that particular bell crank at all. The pull rod that's on there now is bent just at the inside end of the thread.

Thanks,

Charlie

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Backing them all off should be unnecessary, but wouldn't hurt anything. In an ideal world, you'd just put them right back where they started from.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

Well I changed the rod and now I can't get anything in tune.If I get the raises in tune the lower won't tune. I've backed off all the tuning nuts until they don't take any effect and started to retune the pulls but the same thing happens. When the raises are in the lowers are out. I tried moving the new pull rod a little bit one way or the other at the bell crank but that doesn't seem to help.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff Garden · From: Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, USA

Hey Charlie,

I noticed you said you have the GFI student model which evidently has a single finger pull/release changer (which I'm not familiar with). This would be a factor for folks that might be giving you advice.

I just checked out the GFI website and found this. If you haven't seen it, it may help and also may help one of our Forum tech experts to assist you.

The Student Model "Pull Release" Changer

The GFI Student Model follows the same basic tuning procedure as the Pro Models though the procedure for a string that is lowered is a little more involved. Since that procedure is not quite as straightforward or intuitive, a tuning chart is included with every new Student Model that goes over the specific tuning procedure.

Here is a more in depth explanation of what is going on mechanically as we tune the Student Model:

The Student Model changer is a single finger â€œpull releaseâ€ system and this single finger (per string) has to accomplish both the raises and the lowers, unlike the Pro changer that has a three finger mechanism (per string) to do the same job. The single finger can only move in one direction to raise the pitch of a string and the opposite direction to lower the pitch.

Strings that will only be raised or not changed in pitch at all by a pedal or knee lever are tuned to their open pitch using the keys. The resulting string tension forces the changer fingers to stop against the back side of the hole routed in the wood body that the changer mechanism is mounted through. The back side of the hole functions as a stop that keeps the fingers from moving in that direction and allows us to increase the string tension as we tune it to pitch.

When a raise is activated by a pedal or knee lever, the mechanical linkage ends up pulling the nylon nut which in turn pushes the end of the changer finger away from the stop of the back side of the hole and toward the keys. As the one end of the finger is being moved by the nylon nut, the other end that the string ball is hooked through is simultaneously rotating around an axle which results in the string stretching and raising in pitch. The amount the pitch is raised by a pedal or knee lever is fine tuned with the nylon nut. When the raise is released, the finger returns to rest at its open pitch or neutral position against the stop of the back side of the wood hole.

Since the changer fingers can only move one direction to raise and the opposite direction to lower, on the strings that we want to lower, the finger is set so that its open pitch or neutral point is partially engaged or raised. This then gives the finger room to move backward and lower the stringâ€™s pitch before the its motion is stopped by the back side of the wood hole. For example, strings 4 & 8 (normally tuned open to E an octave apart) would be open tuned to D# with the fingers at rest against the wood changer hole. Then those strings are additionally set with a half tone raise from a D# to an E by moving and fixing the fingers. This results in a raised neutral position, allowing room for the fingers to move backward and lower the half tone back to D#.

So on the Student Model when you tune the strings that lower, the procedure is to engage the lowering knee lever which releases the finger from its open pitch or raised neutral point back to the stop against the side of the wood hole. Then tune the open string with the keys to the pitch that it should be lowering to (which would be D# for strings 4 & Cool

. When you then release the lowering lever, spring tension actually raises the strings to what would be the normal open pitch or raised neutral position (E for 4 & Cool

. That raised open pitch is fine tuned by using the appropriate red colored nylon nuts.

The E's are also raised a half tone to F by the LL and those raises are simply tuned with the nylon nuts with the LL engaged like the other raises.

The tuning principle is the same for the lowers of string 2 & 9 by the RR. With the RR engaged and held in place, strings 2 and 9 are tuned to their lowered pitch of C# using the keys. The RR is then released and the open pitch of string 2, which is a D#, is tuned using the appropriate red colored nylon nut, and likewise string 9 is tuned to its open pitch of D using the appropriate red colored nylon nut.

One of the limiting factors of the student model pull release changer is that the backward motion needed to lower a string can only be accomplished by a right moving knee lever, meaning any lowering has to be done on the LR or the RR which limits it to the "Emmons" setup of the E9 tuning.

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

I backed everything off and tuned the lower first then I tuned the F lever raise checking the lower as I went. Lastly I tuned the C pedal and I think it's in tune pretty well. The tuning nut on the C pedal is just about at the end of it's travel so there must still be something wrong. I'll have another go at it later.

Thanks

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

After trying to tune this thing most of the day I still haven't had any luck getting all th pulls in tune so the C pedal shall stay out of tune forever. The tuning nut is right at the end of it's travel and still it won't come up to F#. If anyone has an idea that I should try just post it here and make me happy or at least prevent a nervous breakdown.

Jeff Garden · From: Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, USA

I'm sure you want this fixed as soon as possible after the time you've put into it. Hopefully a Forumite gets back to you this weekend. Failing that, maybe contact GFI by phone or email on Monday and I'll bet they'd be happy to help. Contact info is on their site http://www.gfimusicalproducts.com/

PS: photos might also help a troubleshooter

Pat Chong · From: New Mexico, USA

Hello,
What it sounds like is that there is not enough travel in the pedal. Increase the travel by adjusting (backing off) the pedal stop screw. This should increase the amount of movement of the pedal, and re-tune the strings associated with the "C" pedal. Hope this helps........

..............Pat.

Charlie Hansen · From: Halifax, NS Canada and Various Southern Towns.

Thanks for the advice. I think I've got this thing conquered or just about.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: