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Author Topic:  Sticky "A" Pedal
Robert Rhea


From:
Panama City, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:15 am    
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I have just noticed the A pedal on my D-10 Carter stopping short of a full pull. I have to pay close attention to make sure it gets pressed all the way down, like it's sticking before it's fully depressed. What could cause this? I'm using TriFlow for lubricating, so I'm not using a "sticky" lubricant. Could something be binding somewhere? I appreciate any thoughts and ideals. Confused

Thanks!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:23 am    
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Something binding somewhere. Put it in the case, work the pedals, possibly pull the barbells one string at a time?
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Dick Wood


From:
Springtown Texas, USA
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:47 am    
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Look closely in and around the changer for any string ball ends that may be wedged in there. It happened to me many years ago. There was 3 or 4 stuck in there.
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Jack Goodson

 

From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:48 am     Pm
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Robert, I sent you a pm....thanks jack
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:57 am    
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Dick Wood wrote:
Look closely in and around the changer for any string ball ends that may be wedged in there. It happened to me many years ago. There was 3 or 4 stuck in there.

I noticed that first time I broke a string on my Carter at the changer end. The ball end falls out of slot in the changer finger. Where did it go? One of the challenges of practicing on a carpeted floor.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 12:11 pm    
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A ball end will stop the finger, but the pedal will keep going, with the lowering scissor taking up the added travel.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Robert Rhea


From:
Panama City, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 12:56 pm    
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Thanks guys! I took some canned air last night and blew out the changer to get rid of any dust accumulation. That didn't do anything, so I'll look closer when I get home. I'm also using the plastic pull rod guides that go on the dog bones (at pedals 6 or 7) halfway down the pull rods. I might try drilling those out one size bigger to see if that's what's doing it. If anyone can come up with something else, please let me know.

Thanks,
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***Bob***
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 2:25 pm    
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With the guitar on its legs, push on the raise scissor in an unused hole with a Phillips head screwdriver. See if it goes to C# smoothly (but it will be stiff). If it does, the problem isn't the changer.

Diagnostic procedure suggestion, with guitar either in case or on work stands (I LOVE Bob Cox's work stands), preferably on the stands):


Loosen tuning nuts so much that they don't pull the scissors, activate the pedals, see if the rods move without resistance. If one of them drags, you might be able to see what it's dragging on.

Pull the dogbones, activate the pedal, see if it drags. If you bought it used and the previous owner oiled the nylon bushings, they might have swelled, making the pedal shaft drag.

You don't have the pedal rods on backwards, do you? If the elbow bend drags on the apron, that can be a bugger to find.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Billy Carr

 

From:
Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 29 Dec 2016 11:52 pm     Psg
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Check the part at the bottom of the pedal rod that you use to connect to the floor pedal. Those need oiling to prevent sticking. A magnet works good for removing ball ends also. Need something about 3 or 4 inches long w/magnet attached. Last one I found was at Wal-Mart. Luckily my Excel has never broken a string, not yet anyway. Get the ball end as soon as the string breaks. That way, it won't have time to move around and get stuck causing a problem. I had seven new Carters when I was playing Carter guitars. A small piece of sponge also works on the 3rd string ball end problem. Put a piece at the 3rd string on the changer end. The way Carter changers were made won't allow for one long piece in the area. I used the longer piece while playing Emmons & Rains guitars. Good luck. ( Oil roller nuts also )
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2016 1:08 am    
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Don't play the steel on thick pile carpet, it stops the pedals bottoming out
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Robert Rhea


From:
Panama City, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2016 6:51 am    
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I didn't get a change to mess with it last night. Got home late after work and dinner. I should be able to look at it tonight. I'll keep ya'll posted.

Thanks again,
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2016 7:43 am    
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Nobody has asked this yet---are there any other pulls on the A pedal? Specifically, is there a compensator pulling on strings 1 and/or 7 ? Typically, a compensator will be set to activate at that last 1% of your pedal stroke and if not set up well it can present enough resistance to interfere with a light foot.
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Robert Rhea


From:
Panama City, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2016 10:47 am    
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No Jon, there are no other pulls on the A pedal. The problem started when I made a change to the location of the cross rods on the dog bones, so the 5th and 10th strings may be out of timing. Gonna try a couple of things tonight when I get home. I think I can get this solved...
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2016 11:06 am    
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Robert Rhea wrote:
I think I can get this solved...


I think you can too. The beauty of most all pull guitars is that if you have good mechanical common sense, what you see is what you get. There is a simple mechanical logic. I'm betting that you get this figured out.
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Robert Rhea


From:
Panama City, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2017 9:21 am    
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Well, we finally figured out the problem. Smile And when I say we, I mean Jack Goodson and I... and it was more Jack than me! Laughing I took my guitar up to Jack's place on Monday, and we sat it on his work bench. He took a yard stick and put it up against the back plate from end plate to end plate, if that makes since, and we noticed the back plate was not straight! It was bowed out in the middle! This created way too much play in all of the crossrods on the guitar.

He loosened the screws that holds the back plate, squeezed the front and back plates together, and re-tightened the screws. Now the center line of the hole in the back plate for the crossrods are perpendicular to the crossrods. As the crossrod for the A pedal turned, it was binding ever so slightly because of the mismatched alignment. We also changed the position on the dogbone of the rod going to the changer on the 10th string so the pull of the 5th and 10th strings matched. Thinking back, I wish I would have taken a picture of the back plate before Jack straightened it so I could have posted it for clarity.

A big "Thank You" to a fine gentleman. Thanks again, Jack! Very Happy
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***Bob***
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