| Author |
Topic: Reproducing a Fretboard |
Gino Cecchetto
From:
California, USA
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Posted 5 Feb 2016 11:07 pm |
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| John Billings wrote: |
| I never look at my right hand, so I don't think this would be a problem for me. |
I'm working on getting there, but just coming back to the PSG after 5 or 6 years off, I still need to sneak a peak. |
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Peter den Hartogh
From:
Cape Town, South Africa
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Posted 6 Feb 2016 3:37 am
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Before you take the fretboard off, make sure you mark the 12th fret and the 24th fret on the neck. Or even all the frets can be marked. Maybe use masking tape on the neck to avoid scratches on the aluminum neck. I used a hairdryer to remove the old fretboard.
I found that copies of a fretboard somehow do not play the same as the old one. Sometimes it could be minor discrepancies. But it could also be that the position of fret zero is not correct. You need a lot of care to trim the fretboard at fret zero. That is why the marks you made earlier come in handy to line up the new fretboard. |
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Gino Cecchetto
From:
California, USA
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Posted 6 Feb 2016 7:54 am
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| Peter den Hartogh wrote: |
Before you take the fretboard off, make sure you mark the 12th fret and the 24th fret on the neck. Or even all the frets can be marked. Maybe use masking tape on the neck to avoid scratches on the aluminum neck. I used a hairdryer to remove the old fretboard.
I found that copies of a fretboard somehow do not play the same as the old one. Sometimes it could be minor discrepancies. But it could also be that the position of fret zero is not correct. You need a lot of care to trim the fretboard at fret zero. That is why the marks you made earlier come in handy to line up the new fretboard. |
Thanks Peter, my heat gun on low was my plan for softening the adhesive as well. The existing fretboard is very thin, so I'm reluctant to even try to remove it without having a replacement on hand. In all likelyhood I'll end up just living with it. |
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Peter den Hartogh
From:
Cape Town, South Africa
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Posted 6 Feb 2016 12:41 pm
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Maybe use thin white pin striping on the existing frets.
The stripes would go to the edges of the aluminum neck.
You can round it off with the same pinstriping stuck along the long edge of the neck. Just thinking. |
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Gino Cecchetto
From:
California, USA
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Posted 10 Feb 2016 11:44 am
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| Gino Cecchetto wrote: |
| Ian Worley wrote: |
| what's the scale length of the guitar? |
Checked last night, it's 24" not 24 1/4". |
Oops....on further inspection, I was right originally, it's 24 1/4". |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 10 Feb 2016 12:32 pm
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| Gino Cecchetto wrote: |
| Peter den Hartogh wrote: |
Before you take the fretboard off, make sure you mark the 12th fret and the 24th fret on the neck. Or even all the frets can be marked. Maybe use masking tape on the neck to avoid scratches on the aluminum neck. I used a hairdryer to remove the old fretboard.
I found that copies of a fretboard somehow do not play the same as the old one. Sometimes it could be minor discrepancies. But it could also be that the position of fret zero is not correct. You need a lot of care to trim the fretboard at fret zero. That is why the marks you made earlier come in handy to line up the new fretboard. |
Thanks Peter, my heat gun on low was my plan for softening the adhesive as well. The existing fretboard is very thin, so I'm reluctant to even try to remove it without having a replacement on hand. In all likelyhood I'll end up just living with it. |
Gino, not to keep repeating myself, but instead of just living with it or peeling and replacing, you could hire skilled hands to paint the existing fretboard wider, by taking the black to the edges of the neck, with new white borders at the edges, then extending the white frets to the new white borders.
I suggest hiring skilled hands because I know if I did it it'd LOOK like I did it.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Gino Cecchetto
From:
California, USA
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Posted 10 Feb 2016 1:22 pm
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
| Gino Cecchetto wrote: |
| Peter den Hartogh wrote: |
Before you take the fretboard off, make sure you mark the 12th fret and the 24th fret on the neck. Or even all the frets can be marked. Maybe use masking tape on the neck to avoid scratches on the aluminum neck. I used a hairdryer to remove the old fretboard.
I found that copies of a fretboard somehow do not play the same as the old one. Sometimes it could be minor discrepancies. But it could also be that the position of fret zero is not correct. You need a lot of care to trim the fretboard at fret zero. That is why the marks you made earlier come in handy to line up the new fretboard. |
Thanks Peter, my heat gun on low was my plan for softening the adhesive as well. The existing fretboard is very thin, so I'm reluctant to even try to remove it without having a replacement on hand. In all likelyhood I'll end up just living with it. |
Gino, not to keep repeating myself, but instead of just living with it or peeling and replacing, you could hire skilled hands to paint the existing fretboard wider, by taking the black to the edges of the neck, with new white borders at the edges, then extending the white frets to the new white borders.
I suggest hiring skilled hands because I know if I did it it'd LOOK like I did it. |
Hi Lane;
No worries. I'm actually well on my way to having the electronic file completed that I'll have printed, so it will look as if it came that way from Herb. Speaking of which, I found a couple of youtube videos with Herb playing a Red SD10 Sustainmaster, looks just like mine, aside from having two less strings and being red rather than the blue/green mine is. Unfortunately, the sound quality is really poor, so you don't get any sense of whether or not the guitar sounds good. Was hoping to find something to give me a taste of what these can sound like in skilled hands. |
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