The Steel Guitar Forum Store 

Post new topic Quickest and proper way to restring a pedal steel
Goto page Previous  1, 2
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  Quickest and proper way to restring a pedal steel
Tucker Jackson

 

From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 15 Jan 2016 12:21 pm    
Reply with quote

Steve, that's how I measure too and most your strings look good. It's just the 6th and maybe 1st that could use a tad more, but that's just my personal preference. You want to bias those rule-of-thumb measurements to come out slightly longer on the thinner strings and vice versa on the thick ones. I'm quibbling here; no need to change what you've got. Play away.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

steve takacs


From:
beijing, china via pittsburgh (deceased)
Post  Posted 16 Jan 2016 4:33 am    
Reply with quote

I'm aware that this is not for everyone, but I can string my keyless guitars faster than my keyed steels. stevet
View user's profile Send private message

Don Griffiths


From:
Steelville, MO
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2016 2:08 pm    
Reply with quote

One thing I did to free up both hands and make life easier was make a string holder. Take a 1/4" or 3/8" by 6" long soft wood dowel. Cut about a 3/4" long wedge on one end . Stick it between the finger and changer mechanism to hold the string ferrule in place. Works great on a Shobud, I don't know about other changer mechanisms.
_________________
Shobud Pro1,BMI U12, Santa Cruz F, PRS Standard, Fender Twin Reverb, ‘53 000-28
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Rich Upright


From:
Florida, USA
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2016 9:34 pm    
Reply with quote

I have been playing four nights a week, so I've been changing strings at the every couple of weeks. Biggest problem is removing the old strings, I have to wear a glove on my hand so the string snapback doesn't stab me,Otherwise I tend to swear a lot. Good thing my neighbors are far away.I get 6 to 8 gigs out of a set of steel strings, and two to four gigs out of a set of guitar strings.
_________________
A couple D-10s,some vintage guitars & amps, & lotsa junk in the gig bag.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Johan Forsman


From:
Sweden
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2016 5:12 am    
Reply with quote

Shouldn't you loosen (tune them down a lot) the old strings before cutting them!? Then you'd avoid the worst snapback effect. This is how I've been told to do it on six string guitars (for other reasons than the snapback as well) and I suppose it should apply to the pedal steel as well?

I've only played for half a year and have changed my strings twice. I've followed the instructions on the old carter website and had no string breakage so far.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2016 5:41 am    
Reply with quote

Johan Forsman wrote:
Shouldn't you loosen (tune them down a lot) the old strings before cutting them!? Then you'd avoid the worst snapback effect. This is how I've been told to do it on six string guitars (for other reasons than the snapback as well) and I suppose it should apply to the pedal steel as well?
I don't cut strings on PSGs - keyed or keyless, or on 6-strings. I wind them all the way off, which I have found to be as quick and easy as anything, and perfectly "safe".
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Daniel McKee

 

From:
Corinth Mississippi
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2016 11:56 am    
Reply with quote

I found the video using the Carter/Magnum steel helpful however I too wish there was more videos on the subject of restringing. I would like to see more information about the proper number of winds on the lower strings.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2016 6:22 am    
Reply with quote

Jeff Mead wrote:
Jim Pitman wrote:
I like to use a wooden wedge cut from 3/8" thick hardwood flat stock to trap the ball end of the string at the changer. My wedge is made from oak. It's about 2" long and pointy at one end while the other end is about 3/8" across. (square in cross section at this end). I could envision one made from hard rubber.


I use a rubber wedge like this. They are sold as a tool that piano tuners use. They are called Piano Tuning Mutes or Mute Keys.


Me too. Very cheap and very useful. Very Happy
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E,
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Thom Gustafson

 

From:
Mount Vernon, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2016 9:07 am    
Reply with quote

Easier than making a wedge to hold the ball end in place when changing strings on my Derby is to use a rubber replacement eraser that goes on the end of a pencil.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website


All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  

Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction,
steel guitars & accessories

www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

Please review our Forum Rules and Policies

Steel Guitar Forum LLC
PO Box 237
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 USA


Click Here to Send a Donation

Email admin@steelguitarforum.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for
Band-in-a-Box

by Jim Baron
HTTP