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Author Topic:  Help with binding tuning rod
Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 6 Oct 2015 4:38 pm    
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I have an MSA M3. After some attempted adjustments I find that the tuning rod on my knee lever that tunes the 6th string lower from G# to F# is binding so badly that I can't rotate it in either direction. Rod moves in and out with the pedal, the split is correctly tuned, and the 1st string raise on the same pedal is normal in function.

I'm a mechanical neophyte. Any idea how to approach freeing this tuning rod so it rotates and tunes once again?
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Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 6 Oct 2015 4:58 pm    
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Shine the light on the nylon nut. If the rod isn't binding up on the end (does the rod go farther into the nut than the ones around it) , I'd try brute force toto remove the nylon and swap with one on another rod. A nylon nut seized to the rod just makes no sense.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 11:46 am    
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why turn it in the first place if it doesn't need it?
i first suspected 'overtuned' but you say it's working fine.
i would expect a millenium to be one of the finest mechanical steels available. i wouldn't think it would get messed up all by itself.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 11:55 am    
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It had always been a bit stiff, and near the end of its adjustment. And this particular guitar hadn't gotten a factory setup.
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Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 12:17 pm    
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I finally determined that the tuning rod is simply about 3/8" too long to keep it within the threaded portion of the nylon tuner.

When it said it "works" fine I mean I can muscle it into tune with great effort. Of course I still need to fine tune all the time and with the rod jammed passed the threaded portion of the nylon it took all the strength I could muster to turn it the smallest amount.

M3 is a fine machine. This one was previously owned by David Wright and set up by Johnny Cox. I've just been playing the hell out of it for a few years and it needs some TLC and adjustment that I'm incompetent to do, and unfortunately I'm hundreds and hundreds of miles from expert assistance except for the great help I've gotten from Lane Gray in isolating my issues.
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Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 12:50 pm    
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that must be the hotrod steel, then.
i love that thing!
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Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 1:15 pm    
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That's the one!


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Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 5:14 pm    
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You need to loosen the pull-rod and move it in some. First, back off the tuner about 10 turns. Then, there's an allen setscrew in the end of the silver pin on the pulling finger. Loosen it, and move the rod in. Then re-tighten it, and that should allow you to back off the nylon tuner and re-tune the guitar. Cool
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Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 6:24 pm    
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The pull rod with the nylon tuner in question is a 6th string lower on a LKR with a reversing mechanism. The rod terminates with a 90 degree bend in a bell crank. I don't see anyway to reposition it without shortening it. I tried by shortening the pull from the reversing mechanism (allen as you mentioned) but I could only achieve a very tiny change and I need 3/8" to 1/2" to fall within the threaded range of the nylon nut.

Of course there is a high probability I have totally misunderstood your instructions Donny!

I think I'll go play my Zumsteel instead!
_________________
Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 6:45 pm    
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evidently donny is mistaken about how the pull rods attach to your bellcranks.
it's a little mysterious how this change in length could have occurred, however.
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Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 7:17 pm    
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Chris

It was always on the verge of untunable. I think it was just an error made when it was rerodded after I bought it from David Wright. It became a greater problem when it was reassembled after recently taking the reverse changer apart to try to scavenge the parts to turn it into an LKL2 instead of LKR. (On David's setup the LKR was so far to the right that it was nearly unusable in my copedent in conjunction with depressing the A-B pedals)
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Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Oct 2015 8:10 pm    
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i remember noticing david had that wide spread in the levers.
it's a great steel. hopefully you can get it sorted out.
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 3:03 am    
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From your description, the rod is too long then?

Sounds like a simple fix, really. If you don't have the tools, a machine shop could cut more threads on the rod, then cut the excess threads off that are extending through the nylon nut too far.

I suppose another option would be to add a small nylon spacer ahead of the nylon tuning nut, allowing it to be better positioned on the threaded portion of the rod.

Not sure without actually seeing it, but it seems like this would work. My Sierra is set up that way - I could add spacers there if needed.
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 3:18 am    
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Quote:
I suppose another option would be to add a small nylon spacer ahead of the nylon tuning nut, allowing it to be better positioned on the threaded portion of the rod.


That's how I would do it in your circumstance...
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 6:00 am    
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That can result in the rod sticking out the window.
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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James Jacoby

 

From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 6:56 am    
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Maybe it would be a good idea, to try the spacer, first, and see if it remedies your tuning problem, before threading or cutting on the rod. I did that, once, on a Sierra, I had. I used misc. lengths of small copper tubing, for a spacer. Cheap, and easy to cut with a tubing cutter. -Jake-
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 7:27 am    
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Bob, my Millennium (the first model) evidently uses a different type of pulling-finger/pull-rod setup. If yours has the bent-end rods, then the (short) spacer idea at the changer should work, as long as it doesn't hang up on the endplate. It does seem odd that the previous owner(s) didn't have a problem, so first I'd check to make sure the guitar isn't over-tuned. It could be something that simple that's causing your problem. Smile
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 7:46 am    
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Bob, I think I can come over Monday and bring a spacer.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Bob Simons


From:
Kansas City, Mo, USA
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 6:03 pm    
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Donny- previous owner didn't have a problem because previous owner had a drastically different copedent.

Moot point now anyway- my baby is going back to MSA for a tune up and to clear up a few other minor issues. With Kyle's TLC I'm sure it will be fabulous when it comes home!!!!!
_________________
Zumsteel U12 8-5, MSA M3 U12 9-7, MSA SS 10-string, 1930 National Resonophonic, Telonics Combo, Webb 614e, Fender Steel King, Mesa Boogie T-Verb.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 8 Oct 2015 6:32 pm    
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Bob Simons wrote:
Donny- previous owner didn't have a problem because previous owner had a drastically different copedent.

Moot point now anyway- my baby is going back to MSA for a tune up and to clear up a few other minor issues. With Kyle's TLC I'm sure it will be fabulous when it comes home!!!!!


Good move.

It sounded to me like whoever re-rodded it used a pull rod from a different pedal or lever that was further from the changer. That would accout for the rod being 3/8" too long. MSA could have made you the right length rod.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 10 Oct 2015 8:16 pm     Help with a binding tuning rod.
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Does your steel have the double sided Bell crank with the brass rod bushing and the rod going in the slot in the middle of the Bell Crank? If it does look at both ends of the brass rod bushing. You will see on one side there is a Allen Screw. Unscrew the nylon tuning nut till it is even with the end of the shaft. Then loosen the allen screw on the rod bushing on the bell crank for that rod and slide it up till the nylon nut is against the changer finger. Then tighten the allen screw. sound like the rod has slipped or was not slid far enough through the brass bushing. Good Luck in your problem.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 Oct 2015 3:27 am    
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Bobby, that does indeed describe his system, but I'm having difficulty picturing what you describe. He's coming over tomorrow to take advantage of my 75% FedEx discount to ship it to Kyle and Mitchell. I'll examine it then.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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