F# to F pull very stiff

Tom Campbell · From: Houston, Texas, USA

I've put the F# to F pull on my vertical knee lever and am finding it to be a long pull and quite stiff. I'm doing this pull to both my F# strings.
I have 2 lower positions on my changer and the bell cranks have 4 slots. Because the pull is a long one, I have limited options concerning the setup. Is there anything I can do to reduce the stiffness? Would taking tension off the return springs on the changer help?

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

you wouldn't think lowering two strings a half step would take much throw or tension.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I'm with Chris. If that's a long pull, there's a problem
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Bobby Boggs · From: Upstate SC.

My first thought is the raise members are moving with lowering members, Return springs that are adjusted too tight can cause this on some makes. A little cleaning and oil where the raise and lowering members pivot is will usually cure this. Not knowing what make guitar we're discussing. Well, Again I'm just sharing my 1st thoughts. Shouldn't be a big deal to fix.

bb

Tom Campbell · From: Houston, Texas, USA

The guitar is a 25" scale,Sierra keyless.
I've experienced the same condition when lowering the 3rd and 6th strings G# to G. I have hear that lowering unwound strings can demand a longer pull...but I wouldn't think releasing the tension (lowering) a string would cause it to be stiff...should be just the opposite. But, you are working against the coil return springs.

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

Hi Tom,
I don't lower my high-F#, but I lower string-7-F#-to-F on P5 for the standard P5-B6th change on S12U.
As I think you know, I play a Sierra Session 25" scale S12U (and fwiw, I have gained alot of experience optimizing changes on them over the years).
My recommendation would be to back off the endplate-tuner for string-7 so it does not lower string-7 at all, and first optimize your high-F# (is it string-1 on your steel?).
First of all, the springs that Sierra used on most of their Steels are way too stiff, and lowers on Sierra Steels will always feel stiff in general. You can go to the hardware store and experiment with different springs, if you are up for that experiment, otherwise...
You have to adjust that lower-return spring so that it is as loose as possible but still makes the string return all the way.
Then you need to figure out what changer-finger hole and bell-crank position works best... really the only way to do this is by trial and error, but it will probably be the bottom hole and the bottom slot.
If you reach under the changer you can push the lower finger with your thumb and see/hear exactly how far the finger needs to move to lower F# to F.
Anyway, once you get the high-F#-to-F dialed in, you can then adjust the spring for the low-F#, and find the correct changer/bell-crank positions to optimize the timing, so that the F#'s lower to F at the same time (you don't want the high F# to lower half way to F before the other one starts lowering).
Hope this helps.
I love Sierra Steels, but it has been my observation that their lowering capabilities are not as optimum as other brands.

Tom Campbell · From: Houston, Texas, USA

Hi Pete,

The vertical knee lever has a torsion type return spring on it's cross bar (square shaft) which adds to the resistance of the coil return spring...so...it is not surprising the pull is stiff on the lowers.

I will follow your instruction (after all your the pro concerning Sierras') Cool

Thanks

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