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Topic: Sho-Bud Mushy Pedal Stop |
Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 29 Jul 2014 7:08 pm |
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The A-pedal is raising inconsistently on my 1973 Sho-Bud. This is a rack and barrel S10, 3+2. I tuned the guitar, adjusted raise and lower collars. Then noticed strings going sharp with more pressure on the A-pedal. This does not happen with B or C, pedals, and not a problem with RKL, RKR.
Has anyone else had this problem? |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 30 Jul 2014 7:02 am
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| I've found that the pedal stop can be the culprit on that many times. Be sure that the stop is well secured to the front apron and that it is positioned as far away from the cross shaft in question as possible so as to minimize the leverage effect. |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 30 Jul 2014 1:40 pm
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I agree with Jim. Also, You my want to move the stops to the levers instead of the linkage. I'm talking knee levers here. PSG parts (Michael Yahl) has all the parts you'll need ,very reasonably priced and easily installed. Ron
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 31 Jul 2014 6:14 am
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Dan, there are some subtle problems that cause issues like this. If you'd like, shoot me an email and I can help you trouble shoot and get fixed. I doubt you need to buy new parts.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 1 Aug 2014 2:04 pm
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Thank you for your replies, which did lead me to the answer. With the guitar on the bench I watched the stop-screw while depressing A-pedal. The pedal-bracket was off-axis with the center of the stop-screw. Far enough that it nearly slipped off the screw-end (towards the cabinet front). I had to open stop-bracket to adjust the angle of the stop-screw. Now the stop- is aligned with the pedal-bracket as it arcs towards the stop-screw.
It was not difficult:
Remove stop-screw from bracket, remove stop-bracket. With the bracket on an anvil (wrapped in an old piece of leather), one hammer tap to slightly open the bracket. Replace, check, and REPEAT. Now I have a clean A pedal-stop. I will do the same with the B and C-pedals.
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 1 Aug 2014 4:21 pm
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For the record, that is not a recommended method.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 2 Aug 2014 9:19 pm
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A big THANK YOU to James Morehead. I appreciate your email... fantastic guidance! I am reminded that the stop-bracket and screw were manufactured for a deliberate angle. Changing the angle of the stop-screw could invite problems. I might have good contact NOW, but it may be off-axis after adjusting the stop-screw.
Correction of pedal-stops for "true" contact will be done with a slight bend of the pull-bracket itself. Sorry if I am not using the right terminology. With pull-rod removed, screw-driver or other tool can be inserted. Move the end of the bracket towards, or away from the inside edge of the cabinet so it makes dead-center contact with the end of the stop-screw. Contact with the stop-screw should remain on-axis even when changing the stop limit.
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Jimmy Gibson
From:
Cornwall, England
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Posted 2 Aug 2014 11:56 pm
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What I did when I had this problem was to reverse the stop screw gave more contact for the pedal pull crank to hit, no more problems and an easy fix IMHO.
Jimmy. |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 5 Aug 2014 7:36 pm
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| I wonder if the small bearing surface of the stop-screw is a factor in coupling vibration to the cabinet? The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 5 Aug 2014 7:41 pm
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| The pedal rod crank is easily bent a titch to land on the stop screw and the end of the stop screw itself can either be ground down to have a flatter surface or grind down a plastic acorn or cap nut on the end to dramatically increase the surface area. |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 12 Aug 2014 3:12 pm
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Again I agree with Jim. Be careful not to break the weld at the shaft though. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 12 Aug 2014 4:02 pm
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| Dan Robinson wrote: |
Correction of pedal-stops for "true" contact will be done with a slight bend of the pull-bracket itself. Sorry if I am not using the right terminology. With "pedal"-rod removed, screw-driver or other tool can be inserted. Move the end of the bracket towards, or away from the inside edge of the cabinet so it makes dead-center contact with the end of the stop-screw. Contact with the stop-screw should remain on-axis even when changing the stop limit. |
Dan did it right. Simple fix, and won't break a decent weld. Out of the hundreds of racks I've worked on, I have never seen the weld give.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 12 Aug 2014 6:14 pm
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| Jimmy Gibson wrote: |
What I did when I had this problem was to reverse the stop screw gave more contact for the pedal pull crank to hit, no more problems and an easy fix IMHO.
Jimmy. |
Jimmy, thats my fix as well.. Turn the screw around, and its hitting square and solid forever.. Takes all of 1 minute... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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