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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jul 2014 5:16 pm    
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I'm having my Dynalap kit wired and my guitar tech doesn't want to use the supplied jack as he says it won't last long. He's a little stumped about what to use instead, as there isn't much room. This is the deco-looking version, with maple and mahogany. The output jack goes out the end of the guitar.

Can any Dynalap owners suggest a replacement jack?
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Doug Beaumier


From:
Northampton, MA
Post  Posted 28 Jul 2014 5:51 pm    
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Here's what my local guitar repairman uses when "there isn't much room". The screws are on the outside, which saves room on the inside. It works fine.


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Michael Kienhofer

 

From:
Goulais River,Ontario,Canada
Post  Posted 28 Jul 2014 9:12 pm    
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That's a telecaster jack cup !
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jul 2014 10:31 pm    
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Thanks for the photo, Doug and the ID, Michael. I'll pass this on to my tech.
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Tom Pettingill


From:
California, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 5:48 am    
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Liz, a quick image search shows that the Dynalap is using a flush mount endpin style jack. There are some of better quality, but your luthier is correct to be cautious as they do have a general reputation for a shorter life span under heavy use.
This Switchcraft is a trusted brand and would be an upgrade over some of the cheap no name imports. That said, I've not seen / heard of a lot of Dynalaps out there with failing output jacks. Perhaps some of their owners could add their first hand experience.

The Tele style output jack cup Doug posted is called an Electrosocket and they are great , but it would require drilling a 7/8" hole to mount it.
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David Mason


From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 10:47 am    
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When a build is from scratch, I always do the 7/8" hole for the "cheaper" style of open jack. The big bugbear on the 1/2" long self-contained jacks is that with the open kind, if it starts to fail, you can usually bend the connector back to get enough contact to get through the gig. When one of those closed ones fails, all you can do is stare in the little hole and cuss at it. PLUS they're 4 times as expensive. Keep a spare on hand.
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Ron Whitfield

 

From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 11:11 am    
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The Tele jack probably won't fit.
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 11:14 am    
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Not only do you all have fabulous advice, you are funny, too. I'm not sure I can cuss strong enough to have this fail in a gig. Lucky for me I'm still performing mainly in the living room.

Tom, the 151 looks like a contender. Thanks for the specifics and the link.
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Jim Newberry


From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 11:41 am    
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I used a 151 and even with that, is seems like I had to trim or bend the part that normally is the stress-relief bendy part at the end to get it to fit (the cavity is pretty shallow). Even with that, I managed to split the wood where the jack is. I glued the crack and it seems to be holding after several years. Just be a little cautious putting the new jack in; that's a bit of a weak spot.
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 1:25 pm    
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Yes, there's not much wood back there for the jack. Just got off the phone with Steven White (guitar tech who specializes in tone modification). He used a (carefully flattened out) Gotoh football jack plate and a standard open frame panel jack. I'll post pictures when I get the guitar later this week.

Thanks everybody for your help with this.
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Jim Newberry


From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2014 7:24 pm    
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That sounds like a good solution!
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 6:54 pm    
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Got the guitar back yesterday and I couldn't be more pleased with it. It's a comfortable to play, great-sounding steel. Here's a pic of the jack plate; the jack itself is the open variety, as you can see by the picture of the cavity. Thanks again for all of your ideas and experiences.


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Jim Newberry


From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 8:41 am    
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I like that solution. I should re-vamp mine as well, especially the shielding... Mine's really noisy as it is. There isn't much room to work in that cavity.
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-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 8:59 am    
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Yes, fleas would have trouble working in that cavity.

We're not through with the Dynalap story. Last night I put heavier strings on and when I went to plug it in - nothing. The cord (a George L) wasn't making proper contact with the jack. If I tugged hard on the plug, it would make brief contact. Bending the jack didn't help. Not sure what's wrong, so back she goes. I'll let you know what happens.

This guitar is very quiet here in my living room. The only interference is from the amp (an'80s Roland Super Cube 40, and that can be lessened by tipping the amp back so it faces up some. I live on a boat in a marina where anything can - and often does - leak into my power supply, which isn't grounded in the usual way. So all the shielding seems to be helping.
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Tom Pettingill


From:
California, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 9:07 am    
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Quote:
If I tugged hard on the plug, it would make brief contact. Bending the jack didn't help. Not sure what's wrong, so back she goes.

Hard to tell for sure, but a common issue with tight control cavities is things touching each other and grounding out. Cold / bad solder joints can also cause intermittent signal issues too.
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Glenn Uhler

 

From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 7:04 pm     Isolation Transformer
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If you live on a boat and have grouding probllems, as well as noise leakage, you might want to invest in an isolation transformer. It installs between your landside incoming power and your boats' electrical system. There is no direct electrical connection; only a magnetic one.
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George Piburn


From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 7:35 pm     More Shielding Information
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You may want to pass along to your technician :

Copper Tape helps to Shield Radio Frequencies - not hum inductance which those Wallace Single Coils will make.

The Graphite Paint from Stew-Mac along with the copper ( painted over it and the entire cavity )will help shield the overall situation.

The copper tape around the pickup bobbin needs to have a lead soldered to it and brought into the ground with all of the other grounds to the output jack.

While he is at it go around the copper tape with cloth bobbin tape will cosmetically help too.

For extra coil protection have him graphite paint the pickup pocket too, making certain to have some electrical tape prevent the magnets from making contact with the graphite paint or any of the grounding copper or what ever.

May as well make sure to graphite the inside of the cover plate too, making sure it is touching.

You can have him put cloth electrical tape on the hot part of the jack out - leaving the bump where it contacts the tip of your cable so to prevent any internal shorting by contact.

Last and most important , Get a New High Quality 1/4 Jack Cable and pay the big bucks for a reputable brand known for shielding. This is a must have part of single coil set ups and will make any instrument sound better in general.

Hope this helps this discussion.

GeorgeBoards Steel Guitars.
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Sam White

 

From:
Coventry, RI 02816
Post  Posted 5 Aug 2014 4:36 am    
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I Have a Dynalap and it has the original Jack in it on the end. I do not like the big ugly plate that the one that put it on your lap steel. Mine is the origianal one on it and I have no problem with it. Like you said it is a easy Lap Steel to play and has great sound.
Sam White
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Peter den Hartogh


From:
Cape Town, South Africa
Post  Posted 5 Aug 2014 8:55 am    
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When you plug in the jack plug, the tip could force the socket's long bent part into the fat light blue cable. This cable could move the green capacitor bare wires into the metal tone pot casing, causing the signal to be shunted to earth (silence). Shall we bet on this? Smile
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 6 Aug 2014 3:25 pm    
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Wow, thanks, everybody. I'm learning so much. Turned out the jack was shorting out on the copper foil lining which had come unglued near one edge, so Tom and Peter came the closest to the right diagnosis. Removing a little bit of the copper tape took care of it

George, I'll pass your information along to my guitar technician. I'm sure other Dynalap owners will benefit from it too.

Is there a cable brand known for shielding that you can recommend? I wasn't aware that such a thing existed. I'm using George Ls right now.

Samuel, I love that little football-shaped chrome plate! I can see how it might appear overbearing to others.

Thanks again, everybody.
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George Piburn


From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
Post  Posted 6 Aug 2014 5:51 pm     Great it was simple
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Liz I am glad your fix was simple as Tom and Peter predicted.

Regarding Cables , the GeorgeL is known for Non Microphonics ( noise when you move them around) and for their Capacitance ( clairity of signal quality ).

Now of Daze there are a number of modern cable makers that specialize in both of the aforementioned qualities and take it further with multipal internal shielding materials and plugs.

Unfortunately I do not know any of their Name Brands.

I am certain other members that are Studio - Gear Freaks can advise on names to go for.

Monster used to be the leader but now there are others that have it all going on big time.

Smile
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George Piburn


From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2014 11:43 am     Cables pre made
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I found 2 of the finest made cable for you to scope out.

http://www.mogamicable.com/category/instrument/electric_guitar/

Planet Waves brand name - google for it.
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Liz Williams

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2014 12:04 pm    
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Fantastic, George - thank you so much. Here's a link explaining the various Planet Waves cables:
http://thehub.musiciansfriend.com/music-gear-reviews/hands-on-review-planet-waves-instrument-cables

Planet Waves are the less expensive option; I'm glad to hear they will do the job.
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