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Post new topic Work around a problem with my Push Pull
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Author Topic:  Work around a problem with my Push Pull
Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 5:30 am     Reply with quote

I was trying to get my first string raise on my Emmons push pull to get from F# to G# on my RKL. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to pitch. A friend of mine from Scotland who is very well versed in the world of push pulls told me a good solution. It was to get a " piece welded into a bell crank to extend it.

Another friend did just that and extended a spare bell crank that I had by cutting it crossways and then welded a piece of steel to hold the two sections together. It worked beautifully, and the lever travel is quite minimal.
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Show Pro D10 (8+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8) Mullen Royal Precision D10 (8+6) Carter D10 (8+5). Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, Roland 80XL, Sarno Black Box
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Skip Edwards


From:
LA,CA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 8:36 am     Reply with quote

You don't need to weld anything. My p/p raises the 1st string a whole tone. We did a kind of a trick with the changer...the 1st string finger is at full lower position when the string is open, and therefore it can travel a further distance for the whole tone raise.
Need a pic? Just let me know.
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Brandin


From:
Newport Beach CA. USA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 9:30 am     Reply with quote

Yes, both my Emmons guitars are set up like Skip's.
They work fine.


GB
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Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 9:52 am     Reply with quote

Skip Edwards wrote:
You don't need to weld anything. My p/p raises the 1st string a whole tone. We did a kind of a trick with the changer...the 1st string finger is at full lower position when the string is open, and therefore it can travel a further distance for the whole tone raise.
Need a pic? Just let me know.


That might be helpful Skip. I take it that a spring is holding the lower finger in place. Can I ask if you raise the 2nd string a semi-tone on the same lever?
_________________
Show Pro D10 (8+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8) Mullen Royal Precision D10 (8+6) Carter D10 (8+5). Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, Roland 80XL, Sarno Black Box
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Skip Edwards


From:
LA,CA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 9:57 am     Reply with quote

Ken..
No, I'm not raising 2 a half-step. I probably could if I wanted to, but it's just not set up that way at the moment.
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Larry Moore


From:
Hampton, Ga. USA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 1:17 pm     1 & 2 raise Reply with quote

I have the 1st & 2nd raise on my 67 PP. no problems with no added welding + I lower the 2nd a hole tone also.
Larry
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Chris Lucker


From:
Los Angeles, California USA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 1:21 pm     Reply with quote

Mike Cass does that regularly on my push pulls. I raise 1 and 2. No welding, no special parts. It just takes an understanding of push pull mechanics.
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 2:41 pm     Reply with quote

Stupid question, Ken: You are connecting the rod on string 1 to the hole in the finger closest to the axle, right? It just seems odd you had trouble with making it happen
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Jim Palenscar


From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 10:18 pm     Reply with quote

If you need to, the lower return spring can be removed and the hole that was dedicated for the spring can be used for the raise by locking the raise in the far forward position with the open string adjusting screw.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post Posted 22 Jan 2013 11:12 pm     Reply with quote

Jim Palenscar wrote:
If you need to, the lower return spring can be removed and the hole that was dedicated for the spring can be used for the raise by locking the raise in the far forward position with the open string adjusting screw.


Jim's exactly right. The spring is not needed because string tension alone will return it back to F# in the open position. I also removed the first string lower tuning screw from the endplate, so it doesn't protrude farther than the other ones
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Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post Posted 23 Jan 2013 12:29 am     Reply with quote

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. As my mod works fine and has resulted in a shorter throw on the lever travel I'll keep it on there for now. However, I have learned some more about the way the push pull changer can be made to work now, and that is the joy of the forum.
_________________
Show Pro D10 (8+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8) Mullen Royal Precision D10 (8+6) Carter D10 (8+5). Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, Roland 80XL, Sarno Black Box
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